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  1. #1

    Open loop flushing and Carbon seal myth?

    So I converted my ski to open loop, and I now require to flush the engine. What are the myths of the carbon seal, having the ski running for more than 5 mins? I know my Yamaha connected to the flush kit I can run it for 15 minutes without any damages.

    Is there any trick to running the Sea Doo open loop to flush with salt-away for more than 5 mins? (I need to wait for thermostat to open at 160 degrees and it's more than 5 mins.)

    What I've been doing is backing up into a fresh water lake ramp and leaving it running for 10 ~ 15 mins, then running it with salt-away for another 5 mins at home, but I'd rather just do the 15 mins at home with salt-away.

    Would having a 2nd hose watering the Carbon seal good enough?

  2. #2
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    I have only flushed on a hose 1 or 2 times. I ride in ocean 99% of the time and I have always (on all my skis, even yamaha) stopped at the canal for a quick run in fresh water. My friend only backs it in and runs ski on trailer but I prefer to run it for 2 minute run at different RPM's. Running it for 10-15 minutes on a trailer (backed in ramps) is pointless...only need a couple minutes.

    But first thing I do every time I pull out of salt ramps is dump about 1.5 gallons of water/salt away over engine and areas around it. I leave the drain plugs closed and this way on my way to the fresh water flush (lake), it sloshes around. I often throw a cap of Dawn dish soap in the mix as it breaks down any grime I may have in hull. Then when home I only need to wash ski (optional).

    Try this - run the ski out of water for 1 minute, turn off then reach finger under carbon seal/hat and tell me what you find

    ps. Preventing the OEM paint from peeling on these BRP motors is almost impossible in salt conditions. SeaDoo's engine paint process is JUNK!!!!!

    BTW: I wish I could have kept ski closed-loop

  3. #3
    IDK if I want to try that...LOL Will I find it hot? (My first assumption) Is your Sea Doo open loop? Mine is, that's why I was wondering how I can get the water running through enough if the thermostat is closed, not too much flow... Maybe I am mistaken? But yeah, every time I have been in salt water I like to ride it on a lake, but I usually get back home at night and I don't want a ticket..

    Any clue if the 2nd hose on the carbon seal help?

  4. #4
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m4f1050 View Post
    IDK if I want to try that...LOL Will I find it hot? (My first assumption) Is your Sea Doo open loop? Mine is, that's why I was wondering how I can get the water running through enough if the thermostat is closed, not too much flow... Maybe I am mistaken? But yeah, every time I have been in salt water I like to ride it on a lake, but I usually get back home at night and I don't want a ticket..

    Any clue if the 2nd hose on the carbon seal help?
    On my setup, the ring will burn your finger if running out of water...for even a short time (reason why I don't). I've been open-loop for just under 250hrs. About thermostat being closed...hopefully by the time you get to fresh water flush ski it will be while motor still warm. I'm 15 minutes from salt to fresh water.

    About getting a ticket...you are only flushing it on trailer (not riding). Unless its a state park (sunrise/sunset laws), they can't give a ticket for that. Often when we do distance trips (trailering skis) we still take to lake to flush in total darkness. Lucky for us the lake/canal is in an industrial area

    Yes, putting a stream of water on the metal hat will help.

  5. #5
    Tiny's Avatar
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    Why not just slide the circlip forward and then there will be no pressure on the carbon ring.

    Thats how we do it when we do a boil out procedure.


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