Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Bearing stiffness

    Ok....so yesterday i finally managed to get the impeller off my seadoo GTX 185....next question.... How stiff should the bearing be on which the shaft rotates? I assume it shouldn't be free spinning which would indicate too much slop and therefore a knackered bearing - however if i grip the thread of the shaft (about 12mm at a guess), i can turn it but its fairly stiff. Is this correct?

    Not that it should make any difference i guess, but i have just had the pump in the freezer in order to get the wear ring out.


  2. #2
    they dont usually free spin, and should be silent when you do turn it, seal will restrict its free spin too.

  3. #3
    yes that makes sense.....so not free spin I get, but how stiff should it be? It takes a reasonable amount of force in my case when trying to turn the ~12mm shaft.
    When it had the impeller on, it was relatively easy to turn because you are turning further away from the center point - i.e. turning using the blades of the impeller.....but with that removed and just trying to turn the bare shaft, it is difficult by hand so I can't tell if that's normal or not...

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    broken arrow ok
    Posts
    931
    +1
    53
    The pump is suppose to be rebuilt at 100 hrs. May not b a bad idea to do it now.

  5. #5
    ncdoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eastern NC
    Posts
    1,679
    +1
    179
    Quote Originally Posted by iceno9 View Post
    yes that makes sense.....so not free spin I get, but how stiff should it be? It takes a reasonable amount of force in my case when trying to turn the ~12mm shaft.
    When it had the impeller on, it was relatively easy to turn because you are turning further away from the center point - i.e. turning using the blades of the impeller.....but with that removed and just trying to turn the bare shaft, it is difficult by hand so I can't tell if that's normal or not...
    That's normal. I would think it would be a bit stiffer if you just took it out the freezer.

  6. #6
    I have heard that before - but I think the intent is to check it more than anything, i.e. to ensure seals are good and no water has got in. That would make sense.....but to press all the bearing out and replace to me seems a little pointless just coz you hit 100 hours of use.

    I am actually thinking if I clean out all the grease and use plenty of WD40 to clean it out, it might free it up a little. Then re-pack with new grease. Opinions on that?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. double bearing mod?
    By PAINKILLER in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2005, 12:56 PM
  2. Skat Trak dual bearing/ss wear ring 20 hour inspection
    By Mark S in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-16-2005, 11:25 AM
  3. Who has the skat trak double bearing mod?
    By Green Hulk in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-12-2005, 07:03 AM
  4. needle bearings on rebuild kit
    By RXPNJ in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-15-2005, 08:00 AM
  5. Skat Trak SS wear ring/double bearing pump mod loss of rpms
    By Enufpwr in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 06-29-2005, 08:11 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •