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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Waipu Northland New Zealand
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    96 Polaris SLT 700

    Hi Guys new here and am working on the above ski for my grandson who got it cheap. Not worked on one before although not new to engines and stuff mechanical.
    The ski has not been running for a couple of years so i'm into starting it at the moment. New battery, good spark. Ditched old gas from tank and poured some fresh into fuel line and it fired and ran for a few seconds. Wouldn't fire again so pulled carbs dismantled and cleaned. All diafragms look good no pin holes. Blew jets etc and replaced. Checked for Tempo hoses all been replaced. Pulled sender unit to check float. was ok. Wont fire still so am re checking fuel lines. Doesn't seem to be pulling gas from tank. Don't know about update on ignition without delving into the black box.
    Have read a lot about ski on this site, great info. Have a few questions. re running motor on hose. Why start, then water on. water off and stop motor? What damage or reason please. Understand short run time ok.
    Guess i might have to ask some more if i get stumped
    Cheers
    Wayne


  2. #2
    If u put water to it before the motor is running it will back up in the exhaust, then into the motor. Water off before u shut it down is correct. Don't run the motor more than 60 seconds, could get the pump parts hot since there not submerged.

    Is the fuel water seperator filled? If not take it off fill it 3/4 full and re install

    If the carbs and fuel lines are empty probably gonna have to dribble a little fuel down (mixed 40:1) the barrels to prime um up. It doesn't take much, motor will run for a second or 2. If u do this 4-6 times and its still not running on its own there is problem.

    If it won't run on the fuel dribble then there could be any ignition problem.

    Make sure the fuel valve is on and laynard installed.

    Verfiy u have the pulse, return, and inlet lines installed on the correct nipple. I have a diaghram if u need it.

    Did u do a compression check on the motor?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Waipu Northland New Zealand
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    Hi jetskier, thanks for the quick reply. Re the water hose that would make sense, and pump getting hot logical also. Yep i primed the separator to full. As you said i dribbled premix into carbs and it fired and ran for a few seconds, restarted and thought i had it going on its own for another few seconds. Then it stopped and wouldn't go and the battery was getting a bit tired so its out on charge at the moment. I also pulled the hose off the crankcase to feel if there was vac/pressure and could feel it ok Checked all hose connections to tank were ok. Fuel valve and lanyard ok.
    Compression wasn't too hot 105psi on the front cyl and 115psi rear. May not be indicative as it hasn't run for a couple of years. If run for a while it may come up a bit.
    Yes i think you're right about trying fuel down the carbs a few more times, i had the feeling it was about to run by itself. Was just a bit worried with all the cranking it might not get enough lube to things
    Last edited by old guys rule; 02-28-2017 at 12:59 AM.

  4. #4
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    When you pulled the carbs did you clean the little internal filters? If it has been sitting awhile you really need to clean every inch of the carbs.

  5. #5

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    Didn't see any filters in there where are they located? Removed each jet and blew thru. The carbs looked remarkably clean inside, i was expecting all sorts of crap. Also forgot to ask in my last post how can i check if water has backed up into motor as i had the hose on it for a while before reading about the problem it causes?
    Cheers
    Wayne
    Last edited by old guys rule; 02-28-2017 at 06:08 AM.

  6. #6
    Bdesim's Avatar
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    For the carb cleaning / rebuilding watch this video. I think part 2 has the internal filter info.


  7. #7

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    Feb 2017
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    Thanks for that bro guess its wrenching time again. How about the water backup in engine ? is there an outlet somewhere or will it blow out when running?
    Cheers
    Wayne

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guys rule View Post
    ... How about the water backup in engine ? is there an outlet somewhere or will it blow out when running?
    ...
    If the engine has accumulated water from a back flooded exhaust, remove the spark plugs and crank the starter. If any liquid water or water mist blows out the spark plug holes then there is water inside the engine.

    Do not attempt to crank the engine with spark plugs installed if you suspect there is water inside. You can crack a piston or bend a connecting rod if liquid water hydro-locks a cylinder.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Thanks K447. That appears to be ok as i've had it running again - sort of - poured gas down it and it starts ok and will rev a bit. Rough idle and cant get to the hose tap before it dies. Found the little filters in the carbs and all the little reed plates, all were clean. blew out everything again so am happy carbs are ok now. Separator seems to fill by itself now. Blew out the vent line also, non return valve at the vent seems to be quite heavy. After a couple of tries at the starting i pulled the plugs to do another comp.test as it was a bit warm. Test was no change 105 110 and plugs (BR8ES NGK's) were wet. Not sure where to go with it now as it obviously needs to be in the water to let it run properly and am only close to salt water here. Long trek to a lake!!
    Any other advice gladly accepted!

  10. #10
    The low speed screws probably need a little fine tuning. Not sure if that model had a high speed screw. Needs to be in the water to fine tune the low speed. Get it to idle correctly on the trailer while in the water first and then take a slow ride and see how it takes off. Fine tune it some more if it has trouble gettin on plane. I like 1/8 of turn at a time and test. Once u get the low speed were u want it, then u can fine tune the high speed if its there. Idle might need to be adjusted also. Don't do much riding until u get the speed screws correct and stay close to the bank until u get it in good running shape. If there not set right u can damage a engine.

    BPR7ES is whats suppose to be in it. P stands for tip projects a little further.

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