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  1. #21
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    Great info �� will look for that manifold eventually. The ski is an 02 stx di 1100. Speaking of the stator, when I shut the ski down after running it on the trailer I will get a battery light flashing on the display. No warning lights when running is there a way to check the stator while I have it all apart.

  2. #22
    2002 is probably the old style pump :/

  3. #23
    Thank you for the detailed post. I am going to try and tackle this as soon as I can locate the parts. Can someone please tell me what website they use to order these part numbers? My local part supplies said that they are not available, and 1 of the o-rings appears to be discontinued by KAWASAKI. "92055-3729"
    I also would like to know what brand bearings you guys recommend I don't want to end up with some cheap Chinese ones.

    bearings 6901-2RS Napa does not carry these.. Any ideas where to find locally?
    O-ring part numbers are 92055-1284, and
    92055-3729 (discontinued)?

    Got a website to order these? Thank you in advance.

  4. #24
    Kawachris's Avatar
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    I just recently did this job, I went to eBay for oem o rings and went with the highest quality bearing I could find on eBay. Job went smooth everything fit well.

  5. #25
    Hey guys I decided I am just going to block off the oil pump and mix the gas and oil myself. Will I have any issues with the oil pump is i get the block off plate? Will anything in there be effected by blocking off the plate? So basically I just need a oil pump block off plate and some caps for the oil tank, and carbs?
    I plan on leaving the system in there if the next owner wants to use it..
    Thank you in advance..

  6. #26
    I appreciate your response I called another few places and no one has the second o ring there is 1 on ebay and I am not waiting 2 weeks to get it.. Time to block off the system.

  7. #27
    steve45's Avatar
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    Which O-ring?

  8. #28
    Thanks Steve45... I am totally new to this


    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    The lubrication systems on the 2-strokes are pretty reliable IF you upgrade the oil lines and secure them properly. However, I've found that the drive coupling bearings on the 900/1100 engines seem to fail way too often. I found a bad bearing on an engine that I replaced the bearings on about 4 years/50 hours ago.

    Kawasaki doesn't sell the bearings separately, they want to sell you a complete assembly for $138! The coupling takes two common bearings, # 6901 2RS. You can find them for less than $10 each. Replacing them is easy, but there are a couple of things to know before you start. I would also recommend replacing the O-rings on the plate under the oil pump on the stator cover. One of them doesn't look like an O-ring, it's an odd shape and you'll have to buy it from Kawasaki. O-ring part numbers are 92055-1284, and 92055-3729. I usually don't replace the large O-ring where the stator cover attaches to the crankcase.

    When you remove the oil pump from the front cover, this is what you'll see:


    When you remove the stator cover, you'll find the coupling inside. It has drive tangs that engage the oil pump shaft and the flywheel bolt. Yamaha uses a rubber coupling that seems to last forever, but we're stuck with what Kawasaki gave us. You'll notice that the coupling is secured by a lock ring:



    Remove the lock ring, then flip the stator cover over and gently drive the coupling out with a brass drift:


    Here's what the coupling assembly looks like after you remove it:


    Notice the rubber insert in the coupling housing
    . This acts as a damper for the bearings. You will have to press the bearings out. Be sure you don't damage the rubber insert!
    Remove the small lock ring on the shaft. Find a deep socket that is just large enough to slip over the inboard end of the shaft, then use a vise to press the shaft out of the bearings. (Sorry, I forgot to take a picture of that operation).

    Here is what you'll get:


    Now you'll have to press the bearings out of the housing. I used two sockets; one that fits the inner sleeve of the housing, and one that fits the bearing. You will assemble the sockets and coupling into your vise and press the bearings into the larger socket. Make sure it's large enough for the bearings to slide into:


    Here's what it looks like completely disassembled:


    Press the bearings into the coupling housing, one on each side. The surfaces are all flush, so you really don't need to use a socket for this. (No photo for this, just stick the parts in the vise and squeeze).

    Next, press the shaft back into the bearings. You don't want to side-load the bearings or the rubber insert in the housing. Use a socket that will just slide over the shaft and push against the inner bearing race and press it together with your vise:

    Put the small lock ring on the shaft.

    Time to insert the coupling back into the stator cover. It might take a little force to push it in, so use a large socket that will push against the outside of the coupling:


    The main thing to remember is that you never want to apply a side load to the bearings or the rubber insert in the coupling housing. Install the large lock ring to secure the coupling in the stator housing and you're finished with this part of the procedure.

    You'll also have to remove the oil pump mounting place, clean out any debris and check that the cooling lines are clear, replace the O-rings, reassemble the oil pump mounting plate, and install the stator cover assembly back on the engine.

  9. #29
    Did any of yall have a hard time getting off the stator? Im afraid I wont be able to get it off with my gorilla hands and any recommendations on getting those bearings on and off with limited tools?


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