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  1. #1

    External Fuel Tank Tie-Down

    Hello Everyone,

    I am taking a long trip this summer and have added a 24 gallon external tank to the rear of my Honda Aquatrax. I have it all set-up in regards to plumbing it in. My problem is I'm not comfortable with the way I have it mounted. I am using the existing eyelets on the back of the ski for the rear hold point and the ski rope mount in the center for the front hold point. I haven't taken it on the water to test it just yet but it doesn't seem like it would hold tight in rough water since the front is being held at only one point in the center which makes it seem like the tank could potentially pivot back and forth. I was thinking there might be a way to put a couple additional anchor points in the yellow straps on the top front portion of the tank so there is a downward force towards to the ski rope mount. Does anyone know the best way to do that?

    (The pictures are just what I have as an idea. I won't be using the orange straps because they tend to come loose over time. I just put them on there to get a visual.)

    Do you have any suggestions aside from drilling mounting points into the hull? The trip is going to be in excess of 600 miles of which a good portion will be open rough water. I want to eliminate the possibility of ripping out a chunk of fiberglass.

    Thank you for any advice!
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  2. #2
    TXS,
    Can you share or show how you did the plumbing? I'm looking at the exact same tank. Honda's must have a huge rear platform.
    Thx,
    P

  3. #3
    Fat Man, Little Boat Region8Ultra250X's Avatar
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    have you taken into consideration how that is going to effect handling even the slightest bit? that's an extra almost 200lbs sloshing around at the very back of the ski.

  4. #4
    Q in Arizona's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Region8Ultra250X View Post
    have you taken into consideration how that is going to effect handling even the slightest bit? that's an extra almost 200lbs sloshing around at the very back of the ski.

    I couldn't even keep my Aquatrax stable with my wife on it as a passenger. Tried to ride with her 3 times and all 3 times ended tipped and in the water. lol. 3 strikes and you're out.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXS View Post
    ... added a 24 gallon external tank to the rear ...

    I'm not comfortable with the way I have it mounted. I am using the existing eyelets on the back of the ski for the rear hold point and the ski rope mount in the center for the front hold point.

    ... suggestions aside from drilling mounting points into the hull? The trip is going to be in excess of 600 miles of which a good portion will be open rough water. I want to eliminate the possibility of ripping out a chunk of fiberglass.
    ...
    I would suggest you create at least two forward mount points along the outer sides of the deck, perhaps near the bond line. That big fuel tank is a lot of weight and it will need a very solid mounting system to prevent it sliding and flexing side to side and twisting on the rear deck. In rough water the hull can corkscrew and twist as it slams from wave to wave.

    The two rear factory tie down points may also not be sufficient. As it is right now, if even a single mounting point fails the fuel tank will become unmanageable in rough water. It may even tear itself completely free or you may need to quickly release it.

    Imagine holding the watercraft upside down with a full fuel tank on the back, then shake and twist the hull, with some violence, repeatedly for a long time. That would be the kind of stress you want a heavy external fuel tank to withstand on a long rough ride.

    Design it so any single mounting point or strap can fail completely and not reduce the reliability of the external tank system.

  6. #6
    This is pretty much the set up. It's a Moeller 24 gallon. The gas cap side is the vent and the other one is the fuel. The fuel is tied directly into the fuel tank with a bulb pump just in case I need to prime it, a quick connect, and a fuel filter all in line. I purchased a manual vent moeller gas cap, pulled out the plug then used those threads for the connector to tie it back into the original vent line (see last picture). How it works is as the fuel is being used from the original tank, it will create a vacuum and the only way to relieve that pressure is a suction on the line that leads to the bottom of the external tank. Since the pressure would then be placed on the external tank, that moeller gas cap line is tied back to the original vent line. So in theory it should act as one large (40.8 gallon) tank.
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  7. #7
    Ghetto fab....




    If you want cheap and quick, build out of conduit. There are also tons of "PVC pwc rack" write ups all over the internet.

    There was also this sweet interlocking channel that I had ran across. I can picture it but can't recall what it was called. But, it was adjustable and locked together. I saw someone build a rack out of one and it looked pretty neat and tidy.


    BTW, pjcole, the plumbing is easy...

    Disconnect your vent hose from atop your factory fuel tank.

    Run new supply line (w/fuel filter inline) from rear tank to vent nipple which will naturally create a vacuum and pull fuel from rear tank as front tank empties.

    Re-vent your rear tank to the factory vent.

    Bam. Eaasy. No prime bulbs, electric pumps, etc (although I strongly suggest having at least two backup methods for moving fuel manually just in case



    P.S.

    Do I know you?
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  8. #8

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    7 mpg X 40 Gallons = 280 miles. Where are you going?

  9. #9
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pacer View Post
    7 mpg X 40 Gallons = 280 miles. Where are you going?
    About half the mpg (slightly more than half at 4 mpg) going to Bimini and back.

  10. #10
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    In your first set of images you show the primary (yellow) straps fastened to secondary (orange) straps which mount to eyelets on the PWC. Is this your transport setup or is this how you intend to use it? I would not count on the interface between the primary and secondary strap to remain tight or in position. If you're happy with the primary yellow straps, I would make a crude spreader bar out of pipe for both the front and rear connection. the spreader bar can be fastened with threaded quick link or other secure closure to the PWC eyelets via a non stretch material, maybe chain? The rear spreader bar can be fastened both down to the eyelets and crossing to maintain left/right position. So the rear would fasten as follows IXI. The front would use a spreader bar as well and secure to the center eyelet. Perhaps you can also come up with something to go from the ends of this spreader bar to the gunnel flange around the rubrail with a coated hook, or the rear grab handle if the unit is tall enough.

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