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  1. #1
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Pump Stator Spacer

    I'm rebuilding my 8 vane with OEM bearings and seals I found on ebay. I used the normal oven and freezer method but after seating both bearings I noticed the spacer in the middle was very tight and I couldn't move it around like you're supposed to.

    I placed the stator back in the oven to reheat and removed one of the bearings. Came out pretty easily so I don't think it got damaged when removing...still rotates smoothly and is still tight.

    Now the issue here....I measured from the installed bearing inner race to the other bearing seating surface....did it in 4 different places and it is 1.702" in all 4 places so I know the installed bearing is seated all the way and the stator is square.

    I have 3 different spacers and they measure 1.748", 1.750" and 1.750" in length.

    Has anyone ever had to remove a little bit of length from the spacers? If I use the shortest, that is 0.046" I need to squarely remove. Sounds odd....thoughts? And the stator was cooled down when I measured.

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  2. #2
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    IMO have the spacer cut to 1.704"

  3. #3
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    I am in agreement. Looks like the person who had this before noticed this bc there were shims in there. I'd rather not use shims....never had to use them before. I wonder if this is typical with Skat Trak stators?
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  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Why avoid the shims? What material are the shims made from?

    If they are properly flat and dimensionally correct, should work.

    Perhaps the stator was incorrectly machined at the factory. The shims perhaps are effectively part of the stator.

  5. #5
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    I didn't know they were there so a couple of them got damaged when I was removing the old bearings...a couple of them are creased. I honestly feel that they are a bit of a band-aid and a properly sized spacer would be the best bet. Maybe that is just me? I took one of my spacers and almost have it sanded down to the proper length for this stator.

    I believe they are stainless but it is hard to tell...there is rust on them but that might be from the old bearings.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hyoctane23 View Post
    I didn't know they were there so a couple of them got damaged when I was removing the old bearings...a couple of them are creased. I honestly feel that they are a bit of a band-aid and a properly sized spacer would be the best bet. Maybe that is just me?

    I took one of my spacers and almost have it sanded down to the proper length for this stator.

    I believe they are stainless but it is hard to tell...there is rust on them but that might be from the old bearings.
    Are the spacer rings magnetic? If not, probably stainless steel.

    Be careful with hand sanding. It is critical that the spacer ends be perfectly square to the long axis. When the impeller is torqued tight the bearing inner rings are clamped together against the inner spacer. If the spacer ends are not both properly square to the long axis then one or both bearing races can become twisted and create a potential for stress and uneven wear within the bearing. Even if the bearing seems to spin normally by hand.

    Remember that these two stator hub bearings are the thing that transfers 100% of the impeller thrust from the impeller to the watercraft. This is a longitudinal load on the two bearings as the impeller stub shaft wants to pull forward within the jet pump.

    Effectively the stub shaft is pulling the hull through the water, in terms of thinking about the loads the two bearings are carrying.

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  8. #7
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Good point, K....very interesting information regarding how the impeller pulls the stator. Never really think about it that way.

    I've measured the length of the spacer in 4 different places and it all is within 0.002" of each other so to me it is square. I'm willing to bet there is some sort of tolerance on squareness and I sure hope 0.002" is good enough! I'm still not quite done wit the sanding yet but I'm going to try and get it within a thousandth...

  9. #8
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    my 8 vane was the same way,used a black marker on one end of the spacer,flat filed until the marking was removed,remarked it and filed some more,then used a caliper to check the square on it,makes for a close fit between the impeller and stator.there are also two versions of the spacer,steel and aluminum.

  10. #9
    I'D RATHER SWEAT THAN SHIVER hyoctane23's Avatar
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    Interesting...do you remember how much it was off? Did your stator have any shims like mine?

    I guess these Skat-Trak stators are either not machined correctly or they did it on purpose for some unknown reason.

  11. #10
    Rasta Mon Condoms We Be Jammin!!!!! TxVirageTx's Avatar
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    seems like i originally put it together with an aluminum one and filed it,later i picked up a 5 vane for some testing stuff,used the steel one from it and it fit together the way it should.i had changed so many props on the 8 vane that over time the aluminum one had crushed on the ends,so thats why i put the steel one in it
    Last edited by TxVirageTx; 02-17-2017 at 11:24 AM.

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