Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1

    Project pair of 95 slt 750s. Advice please!

    Recently I purchased a pair of slt 750s without a trailer for $450. One was advertised as needing a stator, the other one had low compression in cylinder 3. They had originally posted it for $800. They are in decent condition, faded (like every one), but the hull seems intact. After a closer look, I determined that the one needing a stator won't turn over, with a battery hooked up. It makes a loudish slam sound when the ignition is pushed. (Yes, the safety plug was hooked up). The other one turned over great and had spark, but the MAG and PTO (1 and 3) both had low compression around 100psi. What should I do? Did I get a good deal? Which one should I get going? Thanks, if anyone sees this


  2. #2
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Random Lake WI
    Posts
    922
    +1
    60
    I would try to get the one with low compression going, the other may have usable parts to do this, especially if you get it to start, the description of the loud clunk when pushing the start button could be big trouble, busted crank or rod, or maybe something as simple as a loose starter. The one needing the stator I would disassemble the engine & see what usable parts you have. Price wasn't bad for 2, I have one that is in near mint condition, needs some engine work, but have given up on it.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Lexington, SC
    Posts
    69
    +1
    2
    Unless you can figure out where the clunking noise is coming from I'd do what Raceman said and try to fix the low comp ski. A buddy had a 780 with 60 lbs per jug that was still running great, just low on top end. Just be careful what you spend fixing them up. I recently took all my aluminum 750 engine parts to the metal yard (3 ski's worth) for about $100. Couldn't give it away locally or here.

  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,478
    +1
    186
    Welcome to GH!

    I'd pull the stator/mag/flywheel cover off the clunk-no-turn-over ski and check the starter bendix. A seized bendix could be the culprit (fingers crossed).

    I'd pull the heads off both engines too to check for rich/lean conditions (piston wash) and ensure no FOD ingestion or lean holes in pistons developing.

    Which ever ski you decide to get running... plan on a full carb rebuild (Mikuni rebuild kits) and a new triple-outlet Mikuni fuel pump (replumb fuel line to each carb... eliminate supply line daisy-chain... return line daisy-chain is fine). See the Knowledge pages that K447 put together. Read through the Fuji(blue) engine pages. Tons of how-to's and info there.
    http://polarispwcknowledge.shorturl.com/

    Cheers!

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Medina, Ohio, United States
    Posts
    5,039
    +1
    143
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlwithakay View Post
    Recently I purchased a pair of slt 750s without a trailer for $450. One was advertised as needing a stator, the other one had low compression in cylinder 3. They had originally posted it for $800. They are in decent condition, faded (like every one), but the hull seems intact. After a closer look, I determined that the one needing a stator won't turn over, with a battery hooked up. It makes a loudish slam sound when the ignition is pushed. (Yes, the safety plug was hooked up). The other one turned over great and had spark, but the MAG and PTO (1 and 3) both had low compression around 100psi. What should I do? Did I get a good deal? Which one should I get going? Thanks, if anyone sees this
    Before you dig into the engine on the one that won't turn over, go ahead and take a look into the jet pump. Make sure the impeller isn't binding on the wear ring. You can remove the jet pump in a few easy steps to make sure this isn't the problem.

    100 psi won't stop a motor from running. You will certainly need to get the fuel system, the carbs, and the fuel pump squared away as ripcuda has mentioned. BIggest thing NOT to do is run it as is. If it ain't broke don't fix it doesn't usually end well with a 20+ year old ski....

    You will spend money getting one of these to run well, I typically go with +/- $1200 including ski purchase and trailer to get one up to operating standards, so keep that in mind.....

    Where are you located? Update your profile with your location when you get a chance.....

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BlueFishCrisis View Post
    Before you dig into the engine on the one that won't turn over, go ahead and take a look into the jet pump. Make sure the impeller isn't binding on the wear ring. You can remove the jet pump in a few easy steps to make sure this isn't the problem.

    100 psi won't stop a motor from running. You will certainly need to get the fuel system, the carbs, and the fuel pump squared away as ripcuda has mentioned. BIggest thing NOT to do is run it as is. If it ain't broke don't fix it doesn't usually end well with a 20+ year old ski....

    You will spend money getting one of these to run well, I typically go with +/- $1200 including ski purchase and trailer to get one up to operating standards, so keep that in mind.....

    Where are you located? Update your profile with your location when you get a chance.....

    Thanks for the advice! As an update, we pulled the engine on the one that wouldn't turn over, popped the flywheel off to get at the stator (in the process, the engine started turning over again (whew) It also appears to be getting looser) The stator looks fine, I just am not sure how to test it yet. The bad news: The electrical box was full of water upon opening it, and there is corrosion and rust in there. Is this what is causing the lack of spark? What does water in the electrical box usually ruin? Also, the oil level gauge had been pulled out (wires had been cut, we followed them on the other ski) I plan on updating all the fuel lines, and getting the triple pump, just want to make sure we can fix the spark issue before I drain the bank. Thanks for your time! I appreciate it!

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    38,679
    +1
    1,635
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlwithakay View Post
    ... pulled the engine on the one that wouldn't turn over ... the engine started turning over again (whew) It also appears to be getting looser) ...
    If there is rust in the engine crank bearings, it does not really matter if the frozen bearings become less seized as you work the crank and get it rotating. Those rusted crankshaft bearings are highly unlikely to survive for very long when the engine is singing at 6000+ RPM across the water.

    Rusty crank bearings will effectively force you to rebuild the entire crankshaft.

    Crankcase bearing failure at high RPM can tear the engine up internally, making for an even more expensive repair than just rebuilding the crank itself. Sometimes the engine cases can be destroyed by a flailing connecting rod or spun bearing damage.

    Since you already have the engine removed from the hull, difficulty rotating the crank (spark plugs removed) would strongly suggest the engine should be taken apart and crank inspected. My guess is that you will find bearing troubles within.

  8. #8
    UPDATE: Turns out one of the cylinders did have the rings rusted to it (the PTO, 55ish psi) We honed the cylinder to 70.23mm and were hoping to put oversized rings on it, 70.25mm. Will they fit on the piston I have right now? If I need to buy a bigger piston, can I buy just one or do I need to hone and buy pistons and rings for all 3 cylinders? I would rather not spend a whole lot of money, but if it is necessary then I will. Thanks for the advice thus far! Also, I found out that the ski already has the Mikuni Triple fuel pump, I bought fuel lines and will be replacing them. Is it also smart to switch to premix vs oil injected? Thanks!

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Newman Lake, WA
    Posts
    2,478
    +1
    186
    The '95 SL/SLT 750 has a:
    Bore: 2.7449" (69.72mm)
    Piston to Cylinder Clearance: .004 - .006 (.11mm - .16mm) -- Limit: .008 (.20mm)
    Piston Ring End Gap: .008 - .018 (.20mm - .46mm)

    So as long as your clearances don't go beyond the limit... you should be okay. I've heard it is okay to run only a single oversized piston/cylinder... though most folks oversize all when rebuilding.

    Have you inspected the crank yet?

    Oil pumps are very reliable... I've always kept/used them. It's the hoses to-and-fro that fail. Ensure the oil lines are good, pliable, with no split/cracks especially at the ends... a new oil filter is good idea too. The '95 750 has variable-rate oiling (rod linkage from carb to oil pump)... so less used at idle (less smoke) and more at higher throttle. This is nice. Premix is one set ratio that will smoke a lot at idle and use more oil overall.

    You REALLY should still plan to open/inspect/clean... or better yet, rebuild... the carb rack (all three). Fueling... is the Achilles heel of these blue Fuji engines.

    Cheers!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    If there is rust in the engine crank bearings, it does not really matter if the frozen bearings become less seized as you work the crank and get it rotating. Those rusted crankshaft bearings are highly unlikely to survive for very long when the engine is singing at 6000+ RPM across the water.

    Rusty crank bearings will effectively force you to rebuild the entire crankshaft.

    Crankcase bearing failure at high RPM can tear the engine up internally, making for an even more expensive repair than just rebuilding the crank itself. Sometimes the engine cases can be destroyed by a flailing connecting rod or spun bearing damage.

    Since you already have the engine removed from the hull, difficulty rotating the crank (spark plugs removed) would strongly suggest the engine should be taken apart and crank inspected. My guess is that you will find bearing troubles within.
    You were right, after ordering oversized rings, I was still too nervous to just run it as is. Ordered a complete top end gasket kit and popped the other two jugs. The MAG looked alright, but the center cylinder had rust galore on the walls and in the crank. I am looking at a new engine for it, there is one on craigslist that is claimed to have 125psi for compression in all 3 cylinders, for $500. Should I just purchase it and get the ski going? I think I can still get the engine I have running. Should I order a new crankshaft to drop in? Does anyone know how to replace the crankshaft? Should I even bother? Thanks for all the advice so far! I have the other ski I bought in the deal on craigslist right now, it started up, (whew) and I listed it for $750 needing a battery and a MFD. (No trailer) is that a fair price? (Compression is 110 120 110)

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Weird Fuel Issues on a pair of 95 SL 750's
    By MDB1056 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-22-2015, 07:19 PM
  2. Detonation project-Pair of '95 750 SLT's
    By mackable in forum Polaris Projects
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 08-23-2012, 01:24 PM
  3. Need 95 SLT 750 pics please
    By xlint89 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 64
    Last Post: 12-22-2009, 10:19 PM
  4. Thinking of Buying a 95 SLT 750
    By WvRider in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-09-2008, 10:58 PM
  5. My 95 SLT 750 project
    By Reccashi in forum Polaris Projects
    Replies: 81
    Last Post: 04-30-2008, 10:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •