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  1. #1

    2002 GTX 155 WAKE - got spark, got fuel mist at rod, only runs with ether?

    I submerged a stock 2002 Seadoo 155 Wake bike last month. Got it out of the lake right away, drained all water. Removed plugs and cycled all water out, once 100% dry added fogging and lube spray to cylinders thru spark plug hole and added new plugs. Then drained oil, filled with new oil added new oil filter and then started engine for 10 seconds, drained new oil again (slightly cloudy) and refilled with second new oil. New oil now looking great with no cloudy at all.

    I let bike sit 1 month and now it only starts with ether.


    I removed plugs and checked spark - 100% good. I removed fuel rod and check the 3 nozzles tips, all 3 are misting just fine. But bike will NOT run or start without a squirt of ether. And I am not getting that flooded smell and the plugs are not wet after attempted start. Bike was 100% full of fuel upon submerge and I have not changed fuel as it is still 100% full and there was zero indication of fuel on the water, but I did add 8oz Star Tron blue bottle to the full tank of fuel. Checked all fuses and all OK. Fuel pump fuse is same as starting motor fuse and starter motor is working so fuse must be OK.

    Will not pop or start on its own, a squirt of ether and it screams to life for 3 seconds. I do have a garden hose attached and ready but have not turned on any water flow as I was waiting a few seconds of steady run.

    Your ideas will be appreciated.


  2. #2
    canuck's Avatar
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    Are you sure no water got in the fuel tank ?

    Fuel floats on water so any water in the tank is at the bottom where the fuel pick up is I would drain and clean the tank then start with known fresh fuel.

  3. #3
    Canuck - you were 100% right... a LOT of water was in the tank.

    Even though the ski was 100% topped off with fuel before launching, and it sank that day without ever starting the engine (got backed over by over by the 75 foot boat it was tied off too), I thought the full fuel tank would keep water out, but I was WAY wrong!

    The toughest part of the job was getting the contaminated fuel out of the tank. The bends in the filler hose was tough to get a siphon hose in and to the bottom of the tank, we tried about 5 different style hose without luck. So we cut off the oteker 19.8 clamp at the end of the fuel rail, pulled the hose off of the rail barb, connected that fuel hose to a drain hose to reach our gas jugs on the ground and then just pushed the start button a bunch of times for a full empty tank. The spark plugs were already out for easy engine cycle and we also added fogging to the cylinder for lube during the process but WOW, was using the built in high pressure pump an easy way to do it. We did NOT hold the starter on, we just pushed the start for 1 second and released and about 8 seconds of high flow fuel would flow and we would repeat. I think it took about 50 pushes per 5 gallon jug. The pump would not permit a siphon once flow was established, but that was OK.

    Once we had the original tank empty we added 2 gallons of fresh fuel and rinsed the tank and then sucked that out too. We added fresh fuel again and then reconnected the hose to the fuel rod with a new oteker 19.8 clamp and purged the nozzles for about 25 pushes on the starter. We put our starbucks cups under each nozzle. We hooked up the garden hose, reinstalled plugs, reinstalled fuel rail with torq bolts, and it fired to life in 1 second, we turned on the water hose and it ran for 5 minutes.

    After that we did another oil change with filter. The oil was still cloudy so we did 2 more oil changes running the engine for 5 minutes with water between each. We are now ready!

    This entire event is 100% my fault. I usually do a pre-flight inspection prior to starting engines but I missed that the skies were still tied to the swim deck of the boat, normally they are winched onto the boat. I am lucky that they never hit the screws while in reverse. My chase boat noticed I was dragging something and it was a sunk ski with only the nose above water. We now tie the skis off facing forward instead of backwards, had it been tied off facing forward, or had I caught the error, everything would have just been just fine.

    All is good now.

    Thanks for your help.

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  5. #4
    canuck's Avatar
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    Nice to hear you got it running again.

    5 minutes on the hose is way too long you can overheat and damage the carbon seal.

  6. #5
    Xspook's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by justridingalong View Post
    We now tie the skis off facing forward instead of backwards, had it been tied off facing forward, or had I caught the error, everything would have just been just fine.
    Somewhat related...years ago I tied up to a boat with about 15' of line (he was anchored in about 30' of water). The captain of the boat was a verrrry experienced PWC/boat operator (works directly with BRP and has raced in the past).

    The line was connected to my ski hook on the stern of the ski. He decides he wants to relocate about 50 yards and tells me to just hold on, it won't take long.

    So, he's towing me backwards and I quickly realized that was a bad idea, as the footwells filled up real quick. If he had gone faster than idle speed, it may have dragged my ski under. Lesson learned.

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