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  1. #1

    93 VXR pro won't stay running! HELP!

    So I have a 93 vxr that I picked up. I had rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel filters, put fresh gas in, and this thing ran amazing. Then I noticed that water was coming in from behind the driveshaft bearing. I figured this out by filling up the hull up to the driveline, cranked, and saw water coming out on to the floor. So after I did this repair it was hard to start when I went to use it. I finally got it started using starter fluid and a battery booster, and it ran for like 30 min or so. I had no issues after that and it ran great! I went to go use it again a day later and it started right up. It got me to the middle of the bay and died. I had to paddle back in. Since then I can only get it to start on starter fluid.

    Things I have done:
    Pulled the carbs. Checked and re-checked. All seemed fine.
    Checked the pulse hose. All is good.
    Shortened some excess fuel lines.

    Things I have noticed:
    It's been out of the water for a few days, and when I got it started, I reved it up high and water came out the exhaust.
    Could water have gotten in the main crank seal when I filled the hull to find the leak?
    I noticed the plugs looked like they had water in the motor. Greyish and wet.

    I can't figure this out for the life of me, and I'm out of ideas. I'm thinking of pulling the carb and the cover to check the reed valves, and maybe I can see if there is water in the crank. I'm out of ideas completely though. It's acting like it's not getting fuel when it looks like it is to me. I have no clue at this point.
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    Last edited by whatnissan; 01-27-2017 at 10:37 PM.


  2. #2

    93 VXR pro won't stay running! HELP!

    Ok I think i might have figured out my problem. So when I filled the hull with water to find a leak apparently the front seal around the drive leaks and here is what i found .

    So I'm pouring oil in and wiping the crank trying to displace ant water. Hopefully it will work. Any better suggestions??
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    Last edited by whatnissan; 01-27-2017 at 10:41 PM.

  3. #3

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    Being into it that far I would probably just go ahead and pull it and split cases. Then you can use compressed air to force water out of the bearings and oil them afterwards. If it was was seals that let water in it could also cause an air leak that can destroy the motor anyways. What was the chance that when you filled the hull you accidentally went too deep and sucked water through the carbs as you were cranking it? Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but that would be the approach I would take.


  4. #4
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    with the 93 VXR you'd have to dam near fill it to the top of the hull to get it in the carb. the carb stands upright and is as high or higher than the head. my bet would be either intake manifold or crank seal. my moneys on the crank seal though.

    you could remove the jugs and fill the base with gas and holding the rods rotate the crank to separate the water/oil. the oil will dissolve into the gas and water will separate and fall to the bottom of the case. it then can be sucked out with a turkey baster. do it a couple of times and then dry it out and oil it up. but you'll still have to pull the engine to replace the seals though. this trick may also show you if it is the crank seal that is leaking as well.

    whatever you do you want to get the water out asap or you run the chance of rusting one or all the crank brgs and then it will get to be a costly repair.

    when ever I pull the top off a 2 stroke I'll flush the base this way and lube it up with fresh oil. it gets any dirt/gasket material out that may have gotten in during disassembly.

    P.S. is that a clip shot of my manual I see there. LOL.

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  6. #5
    Ugh I was hoping to not have to do that what I was doing is flushing the motor with 2 cycle oil untill it stopped looking cream colored .. I have never taken a motor down that far and how hard do you think it is to replace that crank seal? Do I need any special tools? Any guidance would be great on this ..

  7. #6
    I was just going to get the water out that way put it together and see if it ran.. I'm not totally confident doing that but at the same time if it needs to be done I'll do it .

  8. #7
    What about slathering rtv over the old seal?

  9. #8
    Dave in DE's Avatar
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    sorry my friend, no amount of rtv will fix this one. going to have to do it right. the hard part will probably be getting the coupling half off the end of the crankshaft. I'd have to do some research as I'm not sure if you need to split the case to put the seals in or weather they can be installed with cases together.
    even if you have to split the case its not that hard. you just need a good bench/table to work from and read the manual. you may also want to get the Clymers manual for this job it will walk you through it better than the factory one I sent you. as you take it apart lay out the parts and hardware in groups that go together will make it go back together easier. cleanliness is next to godliness really applies here. keep your work area clean, dirt is your worst enemy. clean up your parts as you remove them works best for me. then as I said you can group them and there ready to go back together when you get there
    as 30xs said if the seal is leaking and it appears that it is, and you run it. it will cause a lean condition and blow the motor so you'll want to do it right.

    P.S. take lots of pics as you go also helps with part location and assembly
    the only real critical tools needed that I can think of is a torque wrench for reassembly and the ability to remove the flywheel. (impact or spanner wrench and puller)
    Last edited by Dave in DE; 01-27-2017 at 10:52 PM.

  10. #9

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    Sorry, I was unfamiliar with this motor. I'm used to working on the 1200's and the carbs aren't much past halfway up. If the seals are similar to the 1200's you have to split the case to remove and install them. That's why I recommended splitting to be able to access the bearings with compressed air and oil. As Dave said, removing the water asap is important to save the bearings from damage.

    As i just went back up and read you had it running for 30 minutes after you filled the hull, that should have removed most of the water from your cases? Was this done on the hose or in water? Then once back in water it ran to the middle of the bay it died again like it had taken on more water? I'm not an expert, but if you had enough water still in it it should have been a problem, or impossible, to even start at the launch. That almost sounds as if there was water getting in somewhere else? Was there water in the hull when it died the last time out?

  11. #10
    Yea I'm not really comfortable doing that.. I'll probably just run it untill it dies then.. I just don't know enough past the point I'm at.. I'm really not confortable and don't want to end up with a junk ski. It did run awesome before all this..

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