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  1. #1

    Winterize, stickers and mods for a newbie

    I am new to PWC:s and hit my first one 2 months ago, a 2016 VXR. This forum is a great source of information and inspiration so I already have some mods on order ( Jim's plate, Worx grate, ribbon delete and power filter) . I have tried to search but still want to ask some questions to be sure I don't make any mistakes before starting to work on my ski.

    1. Winterize: I have ran it on the hose, ran it off the hose for 10s to make sure no water is left in the ski, stabilized fuel with a full tank of 98 RON gas. Want to fog the engine, should it be done by disconnecting the hose from the throttle body and spray for a few seconds and then run the engine for 10 s?

    2. Remove all warning stickers: the amount of stickers is crazy, need to go. Any spcial advice or anything that can go bad? Don't want scratched paint, glue residue or half-peeled stickers.

    3. Removing ride plate and intake grate: Any pointers or is it as straightforward as it look, unscrew bolts, change plate/grate, screw back? Use of loc-tite?

    4. Ribbon delete: checked DIY and one video said use loc-tite on the bolts with washers, i.e. the first set of bolts when re-assembly. Correct?

    Thanks a lot!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Removing decals.. heat gun, WD40 to remove residue and an old credit card to peal/scrape

  3. +1 by:

  4. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Warwick, RI
    I prefer to use a hair dryer to remove the stickers on a brand new ski. I'd be REAL careful with a heat gun. Mine (same ski as yours) came off real easy. Hand sanitizer works awesome on removing the gum backing.

  5. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Central North Carolina

    Thumbs up

    it is ok to run ski to fog it for less than 1min. with no water hose hooked up on a cold motor. Spray foging oil directly in throttle body with air filter hose disconected from it while engine is running. Heat the head of the rideplate and intake bolts and speedometer sensor screws with a small hand torch to make them come out easy with out braking them off! Clean off all old lock-tite from all bolts. Use blue lock-tite back on bolts tork to factory specfications. Use Hair dryer on decals , Tommy Jordan

  6. +1 by:

  7. #5
    txgp1300r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Dallas , Texas
    get a Plastic razor very well on the stickers......ride your ski this winter ! don't store it !!

  8. #6
    When removing ride plates and anything that goes below the water line on the outside (including motor mount bolts) I always Red n Tacky grease. Ive done about 1000 over the years. This way they come out in the future. Anti seize is a joke and you will absolutely hate yourself for using loctite on any bolt other then critical engine bolts. Nice and snug is all the the ride plate and intake grate need, I have stripped them trying to use a torque wrench following OEM torque values... Make sure to seal the plate n grate with some fresh 5200

    Motor mount bolts should be undone as well. You will either break the mount or the bolt will come out. If the rubber breaks, then you know it needed replacing anyways so dont worry too much about this. You'll either need another hand to help to slightly lift the engine on each 4 corner when removing the mount to replace. Its easy for me to do it solo, after replacing thousands over the years, but after one or two you can see that its not too difficult. Otherwise, grease the hell out of the bolt, take a dab of it on the tip of your finger and push it down the hole the bolt goes in. Get it nice and tight.

    Then, look at all the hose clamps in the hull and dream about how much fun its going to be to replace me, youll want to do it NOW when they look fresh because its a synch to do now. Any rust on them and you're in for a job that takes 4 times as long...

  9. #7
    lets race.... mikeFZR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Quote Originally Posted by spaceman View Post
    Removing decals.. heat gun, WD40 to remove residue and an old credit card to peal/scrape
    Counldn't agree more. I use a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive, peel the sticker, and then a little WD-40 with my fingers/ credit card plastic scrapper to get the residue. Works like a charm.

    Regarding the intake and ride plate bolts, I use Red loctite on the intake grate and Blue loctite on the ride plate bolts, per the service manual I have for my FZR. Never had an issue getting them out, and I use a torque wrench.
    Last edited by mikeFZR; 12-05-2016 at 11:30 AM.

  10. #8
    Thanks for all the feedback. Will do the mods in the spring, can't wait.
    So there argues for and against loctite.

    @kwtony: Regarding the 5200 sealant, is the plate and grate sealed from the factory or is this your personal recommendation? My first ski so haven't wrenched anything on one before and mine has 3.2 hours on it

    As for not winterize but ride it, I would love to, but I am in northern Europe and we have winter now. No ice yet but around 32F air temps...
    Last edited by Elchenland; 12-05-2016 at 03:32 PM. Reason: ipad spelling

  11. #9
    mr_video's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    South Jersey
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeFZR View Post
    Counldn't agree more. I use a hair dryer to loosen the adhesive, peel the sticker, and then a little WD-40 with my fingers/ credit card plastic scrapper to get the residue. Works like a charm.
    I was noticing how many warning stickers there are on the ski this weekend.. While riding through a no wake zone, i attempted to peel back a sticker, and saw the residue and was dissapointed.. I will try the dryer and WD40 this coming weekend. Thanks for the advice.

  12. #10

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Gulfport Ms
    All my stickers pealed right off my new VXR with no effort , replaced the VXR sticker with a VX Deluxe.

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