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  1. #1

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    2002 STX 1100 DI troubleshooting thread

    I was advised to make a post here in the forums about this by one of the more knowledgeable members via a PM discussion, so here it is. Hopefully this will give many of the other experts here a chance to chime in. Iíd like for this post to become a good reference for anyone else who picks up a DI ski and needs help fixing it. They are an excellent value if youíre willing to spend some time on them because usually when someone has one that acts up, they dump it for little to nothing because no one really works on them much anymore. Such is the case with my latest purchase.

    I bought this 2002 Kawasaki STX 1100 DI off Craigslist for $300. Engine has 120 psi compression on all 3 cylinders and spins free.


    It cranks and fires, but doesnít run; it dies immediately. I will admit this is my first DI ski, so itís been a learning curve. I discovered pouring gas down the throttle bodies makes it run. I also found that with the injectors pulled out and laying on the head, they gush fuel out the side of the pintle when the fuel pump runs (I later learned they all do this and itís normal, which sucks because I thought I found my problem!) On the advice of the member who told me to post this here, I did some electrical checks last night. It seems that these things are usually pretty solid and reliable, but they do have a few common failure points. These include the CPS, TPS, EMM, and stator.


    Here are the results of what I got out of it last night along with the factory specs straight from the service manual:


    -Crankshaft position sensor: tested @ 404 OHMS (430 +/- 30 is factory spec)


    -Stator resistances: 12 Volt stator winding resistances Pins 1& 12 tested @ 1.3 OHMS; pins 2 & 11 tested @ .8 OHMS (Only specs I could find were from another forum post; these should be .3 OHMS)

    45 Volt stator winding resistances: Pins 3 & 10 tested @ .9 OHMS; pins 4 & 9 tested @ .9 OHMS; pins 5 & 8 tested @ .8 OHMS (Only specs I could find were from another forum post: they should be .3-.5 OHMS).

    Stator pins 1-12 (each) to ground: tested @ OL (I agree that this is what the spec is; anything else indicates a short to ground).


    I did crank it and used my timing light to check for spark on all 3 cylinders and I do have it.


    The spark plugs are soaked with fuel, so that tells me the injectors are working, but I have not yet done the cranking/running voltage test on them. I donít think I can get a good reading while running because it doesnít run long enough. It fires off then dies immediately. Also the fuel pump does run as it should and I do have fuel spraying out of the filter outlet.


    I spoke to a guy who does EMM repair and he said itís my EMM. He also came to that conclusion within 30 seconds. That makes me a little leary since I know that with any fuel injection, the computer reacts to sensor inputs. So far, the CPS appears to test good, but I havenít done any other tests to the temperature sensors or TPS. Iím wondering if I should do those to see if one is skewed and causing the EMM to flood the engine. The most likely culprit here would be the TPS I would think, especially if itís showing WOT voltage at idle.


    Also, if someone can look at the results of my stator test and actually has the factory Kawasaki specs and post them, that would be great. Right now itís easy for me to consider the stator as a problem, but the same spec sheet also said the CPS OHMS should be 200Öthe manual says 430 +/- 30, so Iím going with that.


    Thank you for any help!


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    That's alot of homework you've done so far...

    I'd suspect the cranking voltage to the injectors is to low for a start. Fitch injectors are powerful electromagnetic pumps and if they aren't getting enough voltage, the will not properly atomize the fuel.(wet plugs)

    Same if the fuel pressure is low.

    I"d check the cranking voltage to the injectors ( careful there) and the cranking fuel pressure.

    check that the fuel pressure regulator in in place ( brass looking thing in the return line)

    you can always send the EMM out to DFI/Advanced Engine Electronics ( two companies these days) you'll pay a nominal charge if nothing is found. the shipping will hurt the most.

    go with the manual specification , not aware they have changed.

    oh yeah, you never want to fire a Fitch injector if it isn't bolted the head. I believe that damages them, and then the risk of fire....

    pull the cps and check the working end for metal slush. clean and replace

    for a $300 buy in you have plenty of room to get this baby running.

  3. #3

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    I am going to go check the TPS here in a minute and I'll post back my findings. I will do the cranking voltage and attempt to get the running voltage on the injectors this week or weekend. I have "t pins" from the sewing department at walmart that are very useful for testing electrical parts.

    On the specs, I do not have OEM specs for the stator. Do you by chance have them, I am using the factory service manual on my computer but can't find them.

  4. #4

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    OK, I just checked my TPS output voltage as per the service manual. I'm getting 20.7 mV at idle, which converts over to .0207 V. Manual spec is 0.2 +/- 0.1 V DC at idle. Is this finding something to be concerned with?

  5. #5
    Kmorningstar_rxp's Avatar
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    I built the cable you need to check codes in the emm. With an older computer you can download the software and check codes. Been so long that I forgot what it's called but do some search and I think you'll find it. I had 2 of these and every time it was an emm issue. If you spoke to a guy in Texas about repair, he knows his stuff and helped me along the way with my cursed di lol.

  6. #6

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    I have been in touch with Harris of fichtemmrepair.com, but I'm leery as to how after 30 seconds on the pone he could instantly blame the EMM. Thus why I want to diagnose everything first and if it comes down to the EMM, I'll send it in. It's a pricey repair to just throw at it!

  7. #7

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    I haven't forgotten about my thread, I just get very busy with teaching classes full-time at the local community college as well as taking classes myself at night. I communicated with one of the pros on here and decided to forget Harris and call DFI. I did that yesterday and the guy was very pleasant to deal with. We are in agreement that at this point, given how everything has checked out, I likely have weak spark being caused by the EMM. AT any rate, he said he won't charge me anything over shipping if he hooks it up and it's good. I'm hoping it's bad though so he can rebuild it and I can get this thing running before the end of the year...then I can move on to other things with it.

  8. #8

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    Here is another good EMM repair source. This guy was the original owner of DFI Tech, once upon a time.
    http://www.marinecomputersupply.com/about.html

  9. #9

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    An update to this old thread of mine...after diagnosing the EMM as why the ski wouldn't run, I sent it in for repair and received it last week. Installed it in the ski and it fired right up. Now that I know it will run, I'll buy new plugs for it, new fuel filter, and siphon out the little bit of old gas still in it and fill it up with fresh gas.

  10. #10

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    Which repair source did you use for your EMM repair?

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