Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29
  1. #1

    Seadoo GS starting issue ** Please Help **

    So the story goes....

    I bought a seadoo GS 2 stroke (2000 model) in good faith earlier this year and it turned out to be nothing more than a nightmare and money pit. It had starting issues from day one and never ran right it was in the water for about 24 hours in total throughout the whole summer. I decided to put it to a seadoo dealership/repairer in Scotland and it turned out the pistons were scored and the engine was not getting oil due to the pump not being set up right. The engine was fully rebuilt at a cost that was more than the jetski and in my opinion should have lasted longer than 2 hours in the water after it was fixed. So basically the engine was fully rebuilt with new pistons etc... i believe that there is an electrical problem now and it is driving me insane.

    When i picked my jetski up from the garage i went straight to the water to test it out. The ski started and idled perfectly and i believed they had truly done a great job, It was very responsive on the water and very quick. Oil was put in the first tank of fuel to run it in and no more that 3/4 throttle was used. All was well so i planned my next trip on the water and a few hours into the day the jetski cut out on the water which led me to believe it was an electrical fault. I noticed that the 5amp fuse in the MPEM was blown and when i replaced it and connected the battery it blew again. I ordered a new OEM MPEM and fitted it with a new rectifier and the jetski was up and running again. This time it ran for around 4 hours and i had nothing more than a click or a short turn over from the engine when i attempted to start it. I replaced the battery, starter solenoid, start/stop button and also replaced all connectors/wiring in the box next to the battery. When i connect the battery i hear a faint beep like the lanyard is connected to the dess post so i proceed to put the lanyard on the post and i get the 2 beeps to confirm the MPEM is active and that the ski is ready to start, I press the start button and sometimes its a click sometimes it will turn over a few times and then it is just dead after that like the electrics have shut off. I remove the key from DESS post and re-attach and nothing?? I disconnected the battery and reconnect the terminals and it comes back to life, i get 2 beeps but does the same again until it goes dead!!

    I am at my wits end with this i really am. The solenoid is brand new and i can bridge it and it will turn over freely but what can be preventing this from starting from the start/stop button? On one occasion i put the terminals on the battery and the engine started to turn over without the key on and i couldn't stop it again, ended up pulling out the choke. Could the fault be the dess post? On one occasion i got the ski running and when i stopped it then it sounding like something electric was still running possibly the starter i don't really know but i had to remove the battery terminals to stop it. I have also removed the stator plate to look for metal fillings which i found none but i did not take everything apart. I have spoken to the garage about my problem and they say it cannot be metal shavings in behind the stator plate which they also said would not make a difference anyway. I feel the reason they said that is so it is not there problem as they rebuilt it and if there is shavings in there then in some respect they are accountable and need to fix it so they have said it is electrical and my problem basically. I Just want it up and running i cant be bothered with all this messing around.

    Please Help

  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    the solenoid is controlled by the mpem. The mpem will ground the solenoid line when a proper key has been recognized and the button pushed.

    You bought an OPEM mpem..did you have to code the key for it, cause if you didn't it wasn't the oem version and highly suspect of being faulty

    if the dealer just replaced the top end they may have not pulled the stator, some stuff in there is expected.

    I'd take first guess at the mpem, check the pin ends of all connectors carefully ( do not stick a probe into the mpem connectors or even try to clean them )

    could also be a bad solenoid, seen that out of the box sometimes. they are just sticky.


    get a voltmeter..a decent one

    get some leads on the battery and on the starter side of the solenoid. check voltages. if you can get the engine to run, report the voltage at 4k rpm ( just a few seconds, then shut it down)

    we'll go from there.

    you'll want to also measure resistance from the neg battery lead to the cylinder head. should be zero or real close to zero. bad ground wire can be the culprit..and often is on those models.

    sorry for the bad luck, but the lesson if often repeated. Don't buy anything without a water test or a good go over by a tech. it's time and money well spent.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the information.

    The MPEM was bought on ebay which was advertised as a OEM version which was a ''plug and play type'' apparently. The MPEM worked perfectly the first time which is why i find it so hard to understand whats going on. I did not have to programme the key. Ok so i still have the original MPEM which i have been told the diode in them go bad, Is there a place in the UK that would repair it as this seems like my best option.

    I am not that good with electrics but i can visually inspect the pins on the connectors to see if there is any damage.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    I suspected the mpem was not OEM ones ( the real ones) are just so expensive that a new one is simply not money well spent and plug and play is SB for "any key with a magent works" and "good luck if you want to change the ignition timing or check the running hours"

    the mpem is bad, or perhaps.... it falls into the special range of skis where the aftermarket mpems are simply not compliant.

    buying electronics off ebnay requires good luck and some background info.

    My wsm distributor stopped me from buying an mpem last season as he flat out warned me it would not work on that specific year and model ski. Can't quite remember which one, but there is a 45% chance it's your model.

    get the part number from your mpem with the blown diode, we'll start from there to get you running again.

  5. #5
    The GS used the simplest MPEM they ever made, the 278000916 which was used on the low end 717 skis from 1997 up. He obviously has the knockoff WSM unit that doesn't have DESS, which is why any key works on it.

    And it really sounds like that unit is bad. You need to do some troubleshooting with meter before condemning it.

    I once worked on a 98 GS that had horrible electrical gremlins. At the end of the day, I determined that some dumbass had worked on it before and messed up the contacts in the AMP connector. Those contacts have three small tangs that protrude inward to grip the pins on the MPEM. The MPEM pins are .052" diameter. The dumbass either stuck DMM probes or maybe a 1/16" drill bit in a bunch of the contacts while trouble shooting. This caused the three tangs to not grip the pins, and then there would only be intermittent contact at certain times or phase of the fucking moon.

    Since that event, I adopted a new strategy when chasing electrical gremlins. I invested in a package of bright #55 drill bits, which are .052" diameter, same as the MPEM pins. I first inspect the connector for green corrosion, and if no corrosion, I slip the shank end (NOT THE FLUTES!) into each contact to check the grip of the three tangs. If I find any without resistance, I pop the faceplate off, and carefully bend in the three tangs on the barrel of the contact (under magnification) and test again. I also use these bits to use to check continuity back to other points in the harness. This is so much quicker and easier to chase down the gremlins on any of the skis that have the large rectangle Amp connectors on the MPEM's.

  6. #6
    Thanks again for all the help...

    When i feel like i am finally getting somewhere i get knocked down again. I have inspected the harness that connects into the MPEM and to be honest it looks in really good condition, No green corrosion all wires are tight and in great condition. Now for the next problem i have looked at my original Mpem and it looks like the same cheap type i have purchased recently, There is no ID number or sticker on the reverse to state the model number.

    How do i find out what Mpem to get as i don't want to waste more money?

    I think it's worth mentioning that since I put the new Mpem in i can no longer hear a beep when pressing the start/stop button 5 times which worked before.
    Last edited by sscholes; 11-09-2016 at 05:59 AM.

  7. #7
    Well, for starters, the beepers on these skis are known to fail, especially in that vintage. They can be really flaky.

    I think you still need to do some electrical troubleshooting before condemning the MPEM. Do you have a DMM?

  8. #8
    I don't know what a DMM is so that might answer your question.

  9. +1 by:

  10. #9
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    pictures are needed. front and back..also the HULL# of the ski for proper model/year ID.

    aftermarket units typically do no support the self test mode or any other advanced functions.

    a digital voltmeter is another "dmm"..but the mpem is already suspect, good wiring is a +, fixing connector propblems is well..a problem.

    the other problem is that the mpem isn't inexpensive

    oh yeah..I fergot..
    Welcome to GH!

  11. #10
    Thanks for the welcome

    I have attached photos of my seadoo and i am pretty sure its a 2000 model. I dont have a voltmeter but i can get one to check prior to ordering a new Mpem. I am new to jetskis but if it was the wiring/connector problem would that not prevent me from starting the jetski altogether? I have bridged the solenoid and managed to start/run the engine.

    Thanks again for steps in the right direction

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	seadoo.2.JPG 
Views:	1054 
Size:	179.4 KB 
ID:	402199   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	seadoo.jpg 
Views:	856 
Size:	71.4 KB 
ID:	402200  

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 1996 seadoo gtx issue, please help me!
    By blee in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-29-2017, 09:42 PM
  2. Seadoo 787 starting issues please help!!!
    By ahidas in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-09-2016, 02:09 PM
  3. Start issue please help
    By Rende in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-12-2013, 08:46 PM
  4. 2001 Polaris Virage Starting Issues. Please Help
    By sofreshincali in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-23-2010, 12:42 AM
  5. 96' SPX start issues. Please help!
    By goBENGALS in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-02-2008, 08:01 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts