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  1. #1
    martincom's Avatar
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    2003 MSX140 Engine Swap

    I purchased two 2003 MSX140s this summer as a winter project. The first had a dead EMM. It wouldn't start and I couldn't read it with DW, either. Compression was good on all three cylinders, hours were low, and it had a ton of dock rash. The previous owner just kept it in the water, tied up to the dock each summer. It would be far too expensive to attempt repair all the dock rash. I purchased it for salvage.

    The second MSX140 I purchased late in the summer has a rod out on the PTO cylinder. While it doesn't have much for dock rash, it does have what appears to be road rash on top of the left handlebar switch housing and a couple of other places. I'm not sure quite what happen for it to acquire such, as the damaged areas are not consistent with it coming off a trailer. The fellow I purchased it from had acquired from the first owner who had taken the rod repair as a project, but once he removed the head from the PTO cylinder, abandoned it.

    Early this fall, I took the pressure washer to both in an attempt to clean some of the oil off. The rod unit had a full tank of oil and you could watch it leak around the gauge sending unit when the trailer tongue was propped up. Yuk.

    As the weather was kind of crappy here today, I decided to start on the rod unit's engine removal after church. It pretty much consumed the afternoon:



    I utilize a low profile cart and roll it up on motorcycle lift and strap it down. It makes for a comfortable working height when working from the top of the hull opening.


    Running the lift up makes working on the pump comfortable. I have a mechanic's stool, not pictured, that I sit on when working on pumps.


    Here is the engine coming out of the hull. I have to run the lift up so the legs of the engine hoist can go under the lift/hull.


    Engine lifted view from the other side. Yeah, that's a TV in the background. Originally, I installed the TV as a computer monitor, connected to a dual monitor graphic's card in the desktop PC below it. With printed manuals becoming obsolete and so much of it now in a digital format, the TV monitor is a means of "blowing it up" when I'm working on something in the bench area. Once I had in it place, it wasn't long after that I decided TV in the shop would be a nice treat. So I added another DirecTV HD-DVR to the shop. I pretty much watch Encore Westerns most of the time. I've seen pretty much all of them several times over, so I don't have to pay real close attention to follow the plot.


    The issue I was attempting to emphasize in this photo was the loose cradle to engine attaching bolts on the front cradle. I discovered this in one of my Virage's when doing end of season maintenance and was starting to wonder if it may be an issue with Polaris. However, by the lack of a large flat washer under one of the cradle mounting nuts, it was an indication that someone had the engine out previously.


    Well, there is probably at least a pint of yuk in the bottom of the hull and some surprises. Lots of aluminum flakes and some chunks of aluminum casting with black paint on a portion of them. So I'm thinking there is a hole in the crankcase, but nothing I saw at first glance. There was an engine mounting shim laying in the bottom of the hull and the count on each mount did not match the number the factory wrote in with permanent marker. The threads on the motor mount studs are boogered up as well. I'm assuming from being loose, though the nuts were a battle to get off--more than a nylock nut should be. Obviously, the engine has been out before. Based on the level of workmanship, it doesn't give me a warm feeling. I also found the impeller shaft seal mangled up and sitting on the shaft, forward of the impeller, when pulled the impeller assembly. I'm thinking this was from the previous work, as well.


    So I guess I need to do some more research on engine/pump alignment. I glanced at the procedure in the shop manual and I've seen posts about a machined alignment bar being offered on ebay. I just haven't found what is utilized on the crankshaft output for the bar to slide up to and into.

    We called it a day and will start cleaning up the inside of the hull next.
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  2. #2
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    For pump alignment you need:

    1) This rod: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121655978407
    2) This sleeve (only needed for MSX carriers, aligns the carrier to the driveshaft using the bearing in the carrier): http://www.ebay.com/itm/111444950712
    3) A solid PTO coupler from an older Polaris, or the special PTO tool (made of unobtainium). The rubber bonded coupler style might be OK, but I'm not sure if it would be precise enough...

    Nice details and pics, keep up the good work

  3. #3
    martincom's Avatar
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    The next step was to gain access to the fuel canister to check the FPR, pull the oil tank to correct the leaks, and pull the damaged reverse mechanism.



    The steering column support appears to have been removed before by the mix of fasteners that were retaining it, two socket head bolts and one hex head. Two of the split washers were zinc plated, not stainless, by the rusting. Also, once I removed the reverse mechanism, I could see at least one of the "T" nuts/plate had been removed and replaced with a nylock nut. Why would you utilize a split washer under the bolt head when utilizing a nylock nut? So as I had the engine out, I decided to just the slide the fuel tank rearward to remove the canister.



    Considering the yuk under the fuel tank, I just removed it for a more thorough cleaning.



    The reverse mechanism had jammed, was forced, and the lock arm pivot post had been sheered off. I have previously added a pivot post repair to the "sticky" in that regard.






    Above, the awl pointer indicates where I further elongated the holes in the eccentric with a rat tail file. The cam, of the eccentric, is suppose to lift the lock arm out of the cable arm before it starts to rotate. It wasn't and that is likely why the pivot shaft had been sheered off. So I further elongated the holes so the eccentric would rotate further before the cable arm began to. In turn, this would raise the lock arm before the cable arm began to rotate.



    The oil level sending unit was so loose in the tank, it literally fell out when the tank was inverted. As K447 had devised, I added a couple of O-rings to the perimeter of the sending unit cap stem. I should have made note of what size they were, but I didn't. They were from my metric assortment, however. I added the gear type hose clamp around the perimeter of the tank opening to prevent the sending unit from "popping out", if vapor pressure should build and/or wave pounding jar it out. I've had trouble with leakage around the vent elbow, so I automatically seal and secure the elbow with 3M Structural Adhesive. Leaking oil sure makes an awful mess in the hull.



    As what seems to be almost the norm, the fuel pressure regulator was laying in the bottom of the canister. However, someone had been into the canister in the past, as the hose from the pump to the canister exit fitting had been replaced with the incorrect type. I ordered more hose and clamps.



    The yuk in the hull was adhering well and wouldn't dissolve with a spray mixture of Simple Green /Bleach or degreaser. So I prewashed the interior with a bucket of Simple Green and a coarse bristled nail brush. I then rolled it back out in the driveway and rinsed it out with 180F spray from the pressure washer. It'll be much nicer to work in now--especially as I may have to climb in to correct the steering head fasteners.



    I disassembled the through hull bearing as the Polaris rebuild kit is NLA and I was ordering items form McMaster Carr. It is a good thing I did. I poured rusty water out of it. I ordered the bearing from McMaster and the seals from AVX as they had the correct height for the larger one. I'll need to let K447 know that he has the height of the OEM smaller seals at 10mm, they're actually 7mm. Two 10 mm seals would be too tall for the bore depth of the housing.
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  5. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    ... height of the OEM smaller seals at 10mm, they're actually 7mm..
    Point me at the incorrect info please.
    Corrected

  6. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    ...



    Above, the awl pointer indicates where I further elongated the holes in the eccentric with a rat tail file. The cam, of the eccentric, is suppose to lift the lock arm out of the cable arm before it starts to rotate. It wasn't and that is likely why the pivot shaft had been sheared off. So I further elongated the holes so the eccentric would rotate further before the cable arm began to. In turn, this would raise the lock arm before the cable arm began to rotate.

    ...
    When I was first digging into the Virage/Genesis reverse lever binding and jamming the latch, I found that friction with the pinion shaft was a problem. Sanding the shaft down and adding (plastic compatible) lube allowed the cam to rotate within the factory slots and easily lift the latch. Even a little bit too much shaft friction would allow the latch to bind up.

    I posted that repair approach, focused on relieving any binding in the pinion gear shaft.

    The MSX 140 mechanism is quite similar, but the handle attachment and bolt are from the inside, different from Virage/Genesis.
    Last edited by K447; 11-11-2016 at 09:53 PM.

  7. #6
    martincom's Avatar
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    I found that friction with the pinion shaft was a problem.
    Yes, that was also an issue with this unit and I did reduce the diameter of the shaft with emery cloth. Every time I've encountered a unit where the pivot shaft for the lock lever has been sheered off, I also have to elongate the holes of the eccentric portion. I've encountered this on Virages as well.

    Without elongating the holes further, the lock would not release and when it would be forced again, something would give.

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by martincom View Post
    ...

    Without elongating the holes further, the lock would not release and when it would be forced again, something would give.
    Now added to the Reverse Lever repair thread.

    Thanks.

  9. #8
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    Nice project

  10. #9
    martincom's Avatar
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    A solid PTO coupler from an older Polaris, or the special PTO tool (made of unobtainium). The rubber bonded coupler style might be OK, but I'm not sure if it would be precise enough...
    Does anyone have an extra "solid PTO coupler", that HiPerCo refers to in the quote above, they'd be willing to sell?

  11. #10
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Hey, I need one first, lol

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