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  1. #1

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    My SL650, AKA, my headache! (Top RPM Issues)

    For my fellow regulars on here, you have all seen my constant issues with my 95 SL650 (Bogging from exhaust leak, not starting from corroded electrical issues, etc etc etc etc.... etc, etc, etc... Etc etc Etc

    I think this is now going to be justified in its own thread:

    I have rectified all my previous issues through all the help from Greenhulk. Now however, I have the issue that it will not reach top RPM or top speed on a WOT unless it first jumps out of the water taking the load off the engine or impeller.

    Once it hits that top RPM, it will stay no problems unless I come back down to idle again, which I have to all over again.

    It idles perfectly.

    If I do not hit a wave it will run at what feels like 3/4 RPM and speed, but eventually gradually speed up to top RPM. Within maybe 15-20 seconds.

    - Carbs have been disassembled, cleaned and reassembled. I will say I did not do a rebuild kit after taking them apart because they were ridiculously clean inside with no corrosion, gunk, markings, etc, and when blowing out all the jets everything was crystal clear. All o rings looked brand new. They were all cleaned and Soaked in TCW3 oil before reinstallation and There were also internal components that the screws had the markings of obvious work after the factory build. I was not the first person to go into these carbs.

    - Confirmed no longer an exhaust leak (Runs same with seat on and seat off)

    - Confirmed Engine and pump spins manually with no problems.

    - Confirmed nothing in intake grate.

    - Compression 120 across the board.

    - Plug wires cut back 1/4 inch.

    - New plugs.

    - All fuel lines have been replaced. Restrictor on return line in place.

    - Fuel selector has been bypassed (For the time being). Second intake line from gas tank sealed with cap.

    - Removed, cleaned and water separator. Cleaned water separator ring then soaked in tcw3 oil. Also looked brand new.

    - Triple Fuel Pump installed.

    - Confirmed Oil Injection working.

    - Ran with Intake Elbow on and off, no difference.

    - Ski bogged bad before carb cleaning when taking off. No longer a bog at all. Just will not hit 100 percent from 75 percent until it jumps a wave or like I said above.

    - Carbs originally set to factory settings. When they did not work, took settings from 2nd 650 I have that runs no problems and set to those settings. 2nd settings within 1/8 to 1/4 of factory settings on the richer side. Same results.

    Helllllllpppppppppppp!


  2. #2

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    Palo Pinto, Tx
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    Have you checked to make sure the carbs are synced?

  3. #3

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    Visually they are very close. I didn't do any "technical" measurements though. I just found the drill bit measurement way. I am going to attempt that. I will report back. Thanks, and if anyone else has any further ideas, please let me know

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  5. #4

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    Aug 2016
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    I would like to add that out of water on the trailer it also reaches what sounds like peak rpm no problems. Just with a load it will not untul the load is taken off, then it will hold like I said.

  6. #5

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    Jul 2016
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    Pensacola, Florida
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    I have a 1998 SLTH 700 that does the same thing!! I have rebuilt the carbs but same result. My ski carb adjustment is supposed to be 1 3/4 turn from zero. If I turn them out to 3 full turns it almost runs, but will still bog down.

  7. #6

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    Today, while attempting to tune, I went back to the factory settings on the screws and used the "Tuning for Girls" tips from Randy I found. I could not even get anything close it felt like. Even just starting on the low speeds. The closest I found to somewhat working was the factory settings at 1 turn out on the lows. So I am thinking this isn't a carburetor issue which would make sense that they have been cleaned thoroughly and gone through.

    I could not tell if its rich or lean using Randy's tips because I couldn't even get anything over 1/3 throttle (lows at 1 turn, highs at 1/4. It would blubber and then fall flat on its face. Or fall flat on its face, then blubber then take off somewhat.

    What I noticed today though is on the PTO cylinder I am seeing gasses exit from the cylinder into the intake housing. A little flash here and there. Cylinder still has 120 compression. Could this be a bad reed? Could this be what my problem is?

    Days and days and days I have spent on this and I am getting nowhere with this problem. Someone has to know whats going on. I am going to pull my hair out.

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetski10101 View Post
    Today, while attempting to tune, I went back to the factory settings on the screws and used the "Tuning for Girls" tips from Randy I found. I could not even get anything close it felt like. Even just starting on the low speeds. The closest I found to somewhat working was the factory settings at 1 turn out on the lows. So I am thinking this isn't a carburetor issue which would make sense that they have been cleaned thoroughly and gone through.

    I could not tell if its rich or lean using Randy's tips because I couldn't even get anything over 1/3 throttle (lows at 1 turn, highs at 1/4. It would blubber and then fall flat on its face. Or fall flat on its face, then blubber then take off somewhat.

    What I noticed today though is on the PTO cylinder I am seeing gasses exit from the cylinder into the intake housing. A little flash here and there. Cylinder still has 120 compression. Could this be a bad reed? Could this be what my problem is?

    Days and days and days I have spent on this and I am getting nowhere with this problem. Someone has to know whats going on. I am going to pull my hair out.
    Gases going from where to where exactly?

    Have the reeds been checked previously ?

  9. #8

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    Hi Keith! I have been hoping you would see this!

    I have heard a backfire when in the water, I believe that is what it is. You hear it through the exhaust and feel a little bump.

    On the PTO cylinder I will see a flash from beyond where you can see into the intake manifold past the carbs. I believe that is the proper term. What lies between the carbs and the cylinder.

    I have seen some gasses come up. And like I said, I can see a flash of light from within that area now also.

    I am not sure if this is a reed issue (Just learning what reeds are now as I continue troubleshooting) or a mixture issue on this carb. Either way, all my work and factory settings have the thing idling in water fine, but no power with any throttle.

    Hope this answers your question.

  10. #9

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    I also want to add that after installing all three new plugs before I went and started from scratch tuning today, when it would take off slowly then hit top rpm once I hit a wave and the impeller had the load taken off, all three plugs were a nice tanish-brownish color and dry.

  11. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    There should never be fire inside the crankcase, nor should there ever be fire visible below the carburetor. Something is wrong.

    Check ignition timing. If the flywheel has shifted on the crank snout and sheared the woodruff key then the ignition timing will be incorrect.

    Check cylinder compression again. If all three are the same and the numbers are within spec, check whether the crankshaft is out of index. This does not happen vey often but something is up, somewhere.

    Fire below the carbs means the reeds have been abused, so they should be inspected. But first figure out why there is fire down there, and fix that.

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