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  1. #1

    Exclamation 2000 polaris virage 1200 tx no power

    I recently bought a very clean 2000 Polaris virage 1200 tx. The ski ran great, no problems at all for the first week I owned it and last time I rode it I was riding along and the ski started to bog down and the screen showed (low battery) right before it shut off. Then, I noticed the whole lCD screen was off and wasn't showing anything. It was completely dead. So, I got it back up on the trailer and noticed my ground wire was lose so I tightened it back up and still nothing. the next day I did find that there was a reset button on the electrical box next to the battery and I pressed it then everything came on. I started it up and I ran fine, then went to go put it on the water and as I started cranking it over it lost all power again. I have not touched it since. anyone ever herd of this? if so where should I start?
    thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Which ground wire was loose? At which end?

    As a starting point, remove the battery negative cable from the engine. Bolt on left rear corner of the engine, fairly low on the side. Clean the bolt threads, the bolt hole threads, the wire ends. Make sure the heavy cable is solidly attached to the wire end (ring terminal). Everything clean metal to metal, reassemble and snug down the volt.

    Later, after you get the problems resolved, go back and smear some dielectric grease over the bolt head and cable end area to keep corrosion away.

    Does the circuit breaker (Reset button) have a clear plastic dome over the button? If not, water may have gotten inside and corroded the breaker.

    This is a carburetor engine, correct? Not fuel injected?

    For carb engine, disconnect the battery negative cable, then open the electrical box and inspect inside. Should look like new inside, no corrosion and zero moisture.

    Inspect the circuit breaker. You may need to disconnect the two wires and remove it from the box. Look for signs of cracking where the threaded neck meets the body of the breaker. If cracked or otherwise showing signs of failure, replace the breaker.

    If no signs of fracture, use an ohm meter to measure the electrical resistance between the terminals. Should measure very close to zero ohms (less than 1.0 ohms). More importantly, when you wiggle and tap the breaker the resistance measurement must not change, at all. Also wiggle the white button while watching the meter reading. High ohm resistance of the breaker or ohms variation as the breaker is tapped and wiggled means the breaker should be replaced. Use a pair of alligator electrical test leads if your meter does not have clip ends for the probes. Makes it easier to maintain a solid connection between meter and breaker terminals while you wiggle and tap on it.

    If the circuit breaker is actually good, there could be an intermittent short circuit in the electrical system that is tripping the circuit breaker. This would be consistent with the Low Voltage warning prior to the breaker trip.

    The primary suspect would be the magneto stator located inside the flywheel housing. Do the breaker tests. If that all seems good then we can walk through the stator tests.

    While you have the electrical box open, look for any wires that may have been trapped between the case halves at the seam. Sometimes a wire will get caught and crushed when the box was closed up. Also look for wires that may have been forced against another board terminal.

  3. #3

    Exclamation

    Where the ground came lose was at the battery. The ground at the block was firmly connected and is in very good shape so no problem there. the circuit breaker looks like new and is still sealed. the jet ski is carbureted. everything looks brand new and there is dielectric grease all over the electrical box and the box is very well sealed. what are the stator tests? I have a bad feeling it could be that because this is a very very clean ski. looks like just rolled of the showroom floor. has 130hrs on it.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Which ground wire was loose? At which end?

    As a starting point, remove the battery negative cable from the engine. Bolt on left rear corner of the engine, fairly low on the side. Clean the bolt threads, the bolt hole threads, the wire ends. Make sure the heavy cable is solidly attached to the wire end (ring terminal). Everything clean metal to metal, reassemble and snug down the volt.

    Later, after you get the problems resolved, go back and smear some dielectric grease over the bolt head and cable end area to keep corrosion away.

    Does the circuit breaker (Reset button) have a clear plastic dome over the button? If not, water may have gotten inside and corroded the breaker.

    This is a carburetor engine, correct? Not fuel injected?

    For carb engine, disconnect the battery negative cable, then open the electrical box and inspect inside. Should look like new inside, no corrosion and zero moisture.

    Inspect the circuit breaker. You may need to disconnect the two wires and remove it from the box. Look for signs of cracking where the threaded neck meets the body of the breaker. If cracked or otherwise showing signs of failure, replace the breaker.

    If no signs of fracture, use an ohm meter to measure the electrical resistance between the terminals. Should measure very close to zero ohms (less than 1.0 ohms). More importantly, when you wiggle and tap the breaker the resistance measurement must not change, at all. Also wiggle the white button while watching the meter reading. High ohm resistance of the breaker or ohms variation as the breaker is tapped and wiggled means the breaker should be replaced. Use a pair of alligator electrical test leads if your meter does not have clip ends for the probes. Makes it easier to maintain a solid connection between meter and breaker terminals while you wiggle and tap on it.

    If the circuit breaker is actually good, there could be an intermittent short circuit in the electrical system that is tripping the circuit breaker. This would be consistent with the Low Voltage warning prior to the breaker trip.

    The primary suspect would be the magneto stator located inside the flywheel housing. Do the breaker tests. If that all seems good then we can walk through the stator tests.

    While you have the electrical box open, look for any wires that may have been trapped between the case halves at the seam. Sometimes a wire will get caught and crushed when the box was closed up. Also look for wires that may have been forced against another board terminal.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Terminology item: Ground is the engine case itself. All other 'grounds' are links to the engine case. The battery negative post is battery negative, not 'ground'.

    For the stator test, I suspect the stator charging coil has developed a short. Open electrical box and find the Red/Purple wire that goes to the stator at the front of the engine via a cable bundle.

    What you need to do is isolate that single red/purple stator wire from all the others. There may be a Y connection with bullet connector, I forget whether it is easy to isolate the stator wire from the other red/purple wires. All red/purple except the stator wire must remain connected as they were.

    Make sure the looose end of the stator wire cannot short to anything else (tape it off). Make sure the open electrical box cannot touch the driveshaft nor short to the battery posts.

    Reconnect battery and try starting engine. You may need to hold down the Bilge button to provide ignition power. See if the engine now starts and revs without tripping the circuit breaker.

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