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  1. #1
    timbo2's Avatar
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    follow up on over heating 2000 virage tx 1200

    over heating tx 1200

    I am working on my 2000 Virage TX carb ski I took it out today after carb rebuilds this ski was purchased last year and I have been working on it off and on I ran it at the lake and long as I stayed below 5000 rpms it ran fine but anything over 5000 rpms it would run about 300 yards go into limp mode and engine over heat warning would flash after I let off the throttle for about 5 seconds it would run fine until I got above 5000 rpms I could run it as long as I wanted to below 5000 rpms and it would not do it again I felt the engine and it did not feel hot when I started working on the ski it had a pop off and tstat installed I was looking in the parts book for the 2000 virage and it did not have a pop off or tstat from the factory so I removed them any suggestions on what could cause this

    Here is what I found I checked for blockages in the intake screen hoses and water jackets no blockages found replaced the temp sensor no change I ran it backed in the water it would go into limp mode I checked everything with a laser thermometer nothing was actually hot so I unplugged the temp sensor and ran it for about an hour pretty hard ran fine no limp mode so I came back in and plugged the temp sensor back in and ran it for another hour never went back into limp mode runs fine with no problems its really getting weird also noticed something else that I was not working on at that time as I was concentrating on the over heat issue the engine would turn over crank and run with the start stop switch but would not kill the engine with said switch the only way to kill it was to pull the lanyard when i plugged the temp sensor back in the start stop switch started working properly all the problems I had went away so I am thinking maybe the LR-505 module is not working properly i am going to run it and if the issue comes back I think I will replace the LR-505 I posted this follow up because I noticed quite a few people are chasing this maybe it will help someone else

    Tm B.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    It sounds to me like there is a wiring problem. May or may not be directly related to the exhaust temp sensor, but I would still trace that Tan wire and make sure it was not shorting or frayed anywhere.

    What does the electrical box and terminal board look like? Any signs of previous water or corrosion on the terminal board? Wire end tabs clean, undamaged wires? Any wire tabs loose or wiggly?

    Sometimes a wire gets caught in the seam when the electrical box is clamped shut and shorts or damages the trapped wire. Check all the wires inside the electrical box for possible damage. I have even seen wires pressed against other terminals and pierce the wire insulation, causing weird symptoms.

    The LR-505 module may indeed be failing, this may not be related to the false overheats warnings.

    TXpro has posted up some excellent comments regarding optimal configurations of thermostat and water manifold bar for the red carburetor engines.

    The thermostat is there to prevent overcooling when running at low-medium RPM. The pressure bypass valve is there to allow the thermostat to control the engine at low RPM. At higher RPM the bypass activates and overrides the thermostat to allow full cooling flow. Both must be present for either to actually work.

  3. #3
    timbo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    It sounds to me like there is a wiring problem. May or may not be directly related to the exhaust temp sensor, but I would still trace that Tan wire and make sure it was not shorting or frayed anywhere.

    What does the electrical box and terminal board look like? Any signs of previous water or corrosion on the terminal board? Wire end tabs clean, undamaged wires? Any wire tabs loose or wiggly?



    Sometimes a wire gets caught in the seam when the electrical box is clamped shut and shorts or damages the trapped wire. Check all the wires inside the electrical box for possible damage. I have even seen wires pressed against other terminals and pierce the wire insulation, causing weird symptoms.

    The LR-505 module may indeed be failing, this may not be related to the false overheats warnings.

    TXpro has posted up some excellent comments regarding optimal configurations of thermostat and water manifold bar for the red carburetor engines.

    The thermostat is there to prevent overcooling when running at low-medium RPM. The pressure bypass valve is there to allow the thermostat to control the engine at low RPM. At higher RPM the bypass activates and overrides the thermostat to allow full cooling flow. Both must be present for either to actually work.
    I purchased both skis last November I concentrated on one ski at a time the 01 tx I cleaned the pop off that took care of the over heat on it rebuilt the carbs and replaced the fuel lines finished it and got started on the 00 tx it would not fire wound up being the cdi so I was in the ebox and it looked really good didnt appear to had ever been into I did check connections I am under the assumption the 00 tx did not have a tstat or pop off installed from polaris someone had installed both in it so I removed them I am in south Ga so cold water is not really a issue here also what would cause the hour meter to count hour way to fast when I got the ski it had 32 hours on it and now has 180 on it but I maybe have put 10 or 15 hours on it

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    The most common cause of rapid hourmeter advance is to leave a really weak battery connected. As the battery voltage fades slowly the electronics in the display become confused. A weak battery that voltage collapses during cranking might also cause this, as would some wiring problems (bad grounds mainly).

    I seem to recall a problem a couple of years ago with an electrically noisy/defective LR module causing the Yellow 'RPM wire' to keep the MFI awake and thinking the engine was running.

    If you watch the MFI you should see it transition to sleep mode after five minutes of no activity. Sleep mode has specific indicators visible on the screen. See the MFD/MFI section from my signature links.

    The thermostat opens at 143F. I doubt the water you are riding in is that warm.

  5. #5
    timbo2's Avatar
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    I seem to recall a problem a couple of years ago with an electrically noisy/defective LR module causing the Yellow 'RPM wire' to keep the MFI awake and thinking the engine was running.
    This happens to be the ski that I suspect the LR is given me problems in the earlier post that's may be it because when I run it it seems to be accurate whIle on the water
    Last edited by K447; 09-22-2016 at 07:37 AM.

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