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  1. #1
    minpinchaser's Avatar
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    Newbie and the 2 750 SLT's

    Hi guys,

    I recently acquired a 1994 and 1995 SLT 750's. I have been reading some good information on this site but have a few questions on some things. The reed cages on the 94 are super rusty, can these be cleaned up and reused or should I replace? The jet pump was removed prior to me getting the ski and the previous owner removed the entire pump including the part that mounts to the hull, what type of sealant do I need to use when reinstalling. I also noticed there seems to be a few rebuild kits for the jet pump, are there two kits needed or just different options depending on how much you want to tear down? I also noticed there was some damage to the intake grate is this going to create a problem or can it be left alone? I have never rebuilt anything like this but I am pretty mechanically inclined and looking forward to building these two skiis. I'll post pictures of them later, hulls seem to be in good condition, unfortunately one ski engine is totally seized and will be replaced with an SBT. The other has low compression, was thinking about just honing and replacing rings. Haven't removed cylinders or reed cages to take a peak at the internals. Any idea or help is appreciated.

    Thanks, Denise


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    Go as cheap as possible since the skis aren't worth much. I probably have some parts for those laying around. I know I have carb rebuild kits. I have built a few of those and am local to you. Ask away any questions you may have as you move forward.
    Again, don't replace anything until you have them working (that is not needed to be replaced to get working.)

  3. #3

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    The pump uses a black silicone sealant. Me, I would just use good quality silicone, like GE brand available almost anywhere.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighad View Post
    The pump uses a black silicone sealant. Me, I would just use good quality silicone, like GE brand available almost anywhere.
    Marine grade sealant would be preferred. West Marine would be one source but other marine supply stores would also sell it.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Rust on the reed cages indicates possible rust inside the engine crankcase. Are the rusty reed cages from the seized engine?

    Good condition used Fuji reed cages and intake grates should be available inexpensively.

    Going forward, you may want to create a separate thread for one of the machines. It can get confusing if two different watercraft are being discussed within the same thread.

    Click on my signature link, lots of useful info to be found. There is a jet pump section in there which you may find helpful.

    Be sure to service the entire fuel system from tank to engine, including fuel filter and new fuel selector valve. Replace all fuel hoses with new. Rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni rebuilt kits. Check the filler neck for hairline cracks, check the gas cap for aged or cracked seal.

    Polaris used a different jet pump for 1992-1993. 1994 onwards the modular 148mm jet pump was used on all models, with some variations. Same rebuild kit for all 148mm pumps.

  6. #6
    minpinchaser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Rust on the reed cages indicates possible rust inside the engine crankcase. Are the rusty reed cages from the seized engine?

    Good condition used Fuji reed cages and intake grates should be available inexpensively.

    Going forward, you may want to create a separate thread for one of the machines. It can get confusing if two different watercraft are being discussed within the same thread.

    Click on my signature link, lots of useful info to be found. There is a jet pump section in there which you may find helpful.

    Be sure to service the entire fuel system from tank to engine, including fuel filter and new fuel selector valve. Replace all fuel hoses with new. Rebuild the carbs with genuine Mikuni rebuilt kits. Check the filler neck for hairline cracks, check the gas cap for aged or cracked seal.

    Polaris used a different jet pump for 1992-1993. 1994 onwards the modular 148mm jet pump was used on all models, with some variations. Same rebuild kit for all 148mm pumps.
    Thanks for the information. I will start a thread for the 94 once I start putting stuff together. Yes the rusty reed cages are from the 94 and that was the engine that is seized.

    I am going to upgrade the fuel systems on both, both need new filler necks. I planned on buying the carb rebuilds from watcon along with the sector valves and triple outlet fuel pumps for both.
    I have read alot of your links in the signature I have found it to be very helpful. Another thing I was unable to find is about the MFD. How does it turn on. Does the ski have to be running for it to work, I have no idea if they work.
    Thanks again for your time

  7. #7
    minpinchaser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighad View Post
    Go as cheap as possible since the skis aren't worth much. I probably have some parts for those laying around. I know I have carb rebuild kits. I have built a few of those and am local to you. Ask away any questions you may have as you move forward.
    Again, don't replace anything until you have them working (that is not needed to be replaced to get working.)

    I'm not as concerned with value as I am with reliability and quality. I don't plan on fixing to sell, but keep and ride. Let me know what parts you have or I can send you some stuff I need. Thanks

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    There is an MFD section in the linked web site. MFD should show the clock all the time. There is a fuse for MFD in the electrical box, rated 1/4 amp.

    You can upgrade to the newer style Polaris filler neck and cap, just a bit of filling the hull opening to left it fit.

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    So tonight I decided I wanted to test the electrical box from the 94 so I can see if it needs to be replaced or not. I open my 95 box and see ok the 94 is missing one wire that goes from the bracket on top of the coils to the other half, cool not bad. The other half is nasty with dialect grease and some rust both front and back. Then as I'm looking at how I want to tackle this wire swap without getting a headache I noticed the wires from the 95 box has been repairs at one point as well and as I'm tracing wires and colors I notice a black wire going into a clear wire. I look again and I say to myself no, that can't be what I think it is. Sure as heck someone used speaker wire! I had to stop to laugh for a few mins. I will be fixing that asap. My question though is how do you clean the side that has the connections from rust and the dialect grease without hurting the card they are soldered? The engine cranks over and I can see spark on the plugs when I did the compression test so if the CDI was bad would it still give me those results? I am concerned about the speaker wire that attaches to a black wire that goes into the CDI. Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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