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  1. #1
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    '02 Virage Rebuild Crash and Burn

    OK I had to put a new lower case on my Virage engine as the starter broke off a bolt and needed to start with a new lower case. So I put everything back together and re-installed it this weekend. I started it and it revved to about 6K RPM and I shut her down. Started it a second time and revved that fast again and shut her down. I dialed the idle back and went to start it a 3rd time and the started turned and simply "whirred" meaning it was spinning but not engaging. Humm, so I have have about 20 second of run time and that is it...
    So the starter is still soundly bolted on the block. I open up the electrical case but notice that the oil pump is "bulging" away from the case. So I attack those 2 bolts. The oil pump is broken in 2 pieced on its base. I notice the white plastic nut is bulging form the case. Ah oh. So I open the case and the white plastic nut is crushed. The flywheel bolt had backed it's way loose about a 1/2 inch. Hence the starter no longer would engage. The flywheel was loose. Upon further inspection the woodruff key was sheared.

    Now I had a rag in the exhaust port and torqued that bolt down with a lot of force. So any idea what happened?

    Why the excessive revving? Why had that nut backed off so much? Should I have used some thread lock on that? If so, red or blue? What else could I have done wrong?

    Thanks team!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Service manual
    Loctite 242 on flywheel nut, torque to 100 foot-pounds
    Coat entire inside surface of flywheel taper with 262.
    Sometimes the woodruff key gets pushed back as the flywheel is installed. It is critical that the woodruff key stay in place during assembly and the mating tapers fit together perfectly.

    I dislike jamming something in the exhaust port as it creates a canted stress on the piston.

    I usually insert a nylon rope through the spark plug hole and stuff the chamber volume with the rope (maybe 4-5 feet of 3/8" rope). Piston positioned above the ports beforehand. The piston cannot rise and the rope provides a fairly soft and even pressure on the piston dome.
    Last edited by K447; 09-05-2016 at 10:23 PM.

  3. #3
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    Well it was sheared in half. I had to pick both pieces out of the shaft groove.
    So I want to see it right in the front of the flywheel?

  4. #4
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    Did you use an OEM key? Or substitute?

  5. #5
    StevoH@O's Avatar
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    I used what was in there and had worked before.

    Hey, one thing I did not mention, since it is a bear to pull these flywheels off even with a yoke, I put a tad bit of 3 in 1 oil on the shaft. Could that have caused the issue? Maybe that was simply stupid. Maybe that placed too much stress on that key and it sheared.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    ... bit of 3 in 1 oil on the shaft. Could that have caused the issue? Maybe that was simply stupid. Maybe that placed too much stress on that key and it sheared.
    The woodruff key is not there to provide torque loading for the spinning flywheel. It is there only for guiding the flywheel into position during assembly.

    The Loctite on the taper surface provides the torsional grip and the torqued nut provides the clamping force to hold it together.

    If you assembled the flywheel carefully with no key at all, just made sure the two halves of the slot were aligned, the engine would work just fine.

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