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  1. #1

    custom intercooler and cooling kit

    I come form a country where the temperature is 45C+ (113F+), I own a 2014 Fzr SVHO with free flow exhaust, ribbon delete, air intake, R&D intake grate with pump seal, depicted solas concord 14/20, Riva HKS BOV and SCOM. With all that am not getting more than 70MPH on the GPS and its all because the heat and the high temps we have. I'm thinking to go with the type 14 IC and a custom cooling kit., I had searched and read a lot about the type 14 but still can't decide how to mount it, but I couldn't find anything useful for the cooling hoses kit. How to dedicate a line for the IC and for the other cooling things :P. What do you guys recommend? any advices ? a step by step will be great.

    Thanks,
    yousif.


  2. #2
    05NNJ1300R's Avatar
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    fizzle intercooler with a dedicated line kit and a deans team tune set up for the heat i dont think your scom is working right if you are stuck at 70mph with those mods even in the heat. fizzle is fast to get in and out for servicing machine so that should be a factor in your purchase.

    george

  3. #3
    Lake Lion
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    12/17 pitch Solas, Deans tune and Worx intercooler. The Worx comes with everything you need for the dedicated line except for the hose. And it comes with a Greedy blow off so you can sell your HKS.
    Bilal

  4. #4
    Thanx guys but i was thinking of making my own FB type 14.

  5. #5
    The Fizzle I/C is the answer to your dilemma ---- and it comes with a Mounting Bracket which you would have to fabricate yourself with the Type 14 or any other general purpose I/C.

    Although they *look* similar, I asked the fabricator of this I/C the same question about what made his unit better than the Type 14 you looked at. Without getting into the technical details, just trust that there are *details* which make it better and purpose built for the SVHO.

    Buy it here >> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1945

    Now, to deal with the dedicated I/C line you will need a couple special parts to do it right.

    First, you will need to reconfigure the OE "Double-Y" Cooling Water Line Connector to alleviate the
    OE output to the stock IC, some people just remove the outlet hose and plug the hole but I
    chose to replace it with the same part from the cooling system of a VXR Model which
    doesn't have an I/C.

    p/n is 60E-12581-00-00 ( Hose Joint - $12.89 ) and can be purchased along
    with all the other items I will mention in this web site's on-line store.

    Be sure to pay VERY Close Attention to how this fitting is installed or you will dramatically cut the outlet flow to your Engine Block, Exhaust Systems and Oil Cooler with dramatically negative results.

    Also, since you will definitely want to install a Strainer in-line to the I/C to protect it's Core, ( mandatory for Salt Water ) I recommend buying a couple extra lengths of 1/2" Yamaha reinforced I/C hose in your parts order.

    The single longest length available at 970mm is Yamaha p/n 90445-21807-00 ( L970 - $9.66/ea. )

    Get the Strainer in Jerry's online store here >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1432

    Pre-Position the IN/OUT Fittings of the Strainer appropriately to alleviate any kinking of the Water Lines and Mount the Strainer Bracket on the BulkHead directly behind the Electrical Box. There is just enough clearance for the self-provided Button Head Bolts if you pre-measure and position it correctly.

    Now your going to need a couple obscure parts to put it all together - again, both available in this web sites' on-line store.

    The Single Outlet WORX Billet Jet Pump Strainer Plate >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3602

    TIP 1: Replace the 3/8" Barb'd fitting which comes with it with a locally purchased 1/2" Barb. x 3/8" NPT Brass Fitting to get Max Flow -
    TIP 2: Drill out every other OE Jet Pump Strainer Plate Hole with a 1/8" Drill ( don't remove the Plate ) , again, for Max Flow of Cooling Water....

    and the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1163

    A short piece of 1/2" Hose connected to the output of the replaced 1/2" Barb'd Fitting of the Jet Pump Strainer Plate connected to the outside Barb. of the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting is completes your dedicated water source.

    Connect the Through-Hull Fitting Inside 1/2" Barb. to the "IN" Side of the Strainer and the Output of the Strainer provides the Dedicated Water Source to your new Fizzle I/C.

    *If* you really think your water temp conditions require further cooling the engine, get a 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/2" "T" Fitting in-line with the dedicated I/C Water line you just installed and branch the 1/4" outlet of the "T" to the Engine Block Anode located on the Rear Intake Side of the Engine which you replace with the WORX Engine Anode Cooling Adaptor >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607


    I'll post a couple pix of the angle orientation of the 1/2" Outlet from the WORX J_Pump Strainer Plate and the Drill Position of the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting I used to get proper clearance of the Reverse Mechanism / Actuator Rod on the Port Side Through Hull Fitting which is the most direct routing of the Hose when I get some time.

    There you go......

    Cheers !

    david-
    Last edited by David_HX_RXP; 08-28-2016 at 06:59 AM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Boya38oob View Post
    Thanx guys but i was thinking of making my own FB type 14.

    Yeah, a lot of people talk the talk that way, but when it really comes down to it, they all come to the realization there is much more to it than they realized and end up buying the unit from someone who has taken the time and done the R&D to properly fabricate the hardware that works, not the cheapest route, but the best proven hardware.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Good Fast Cheap.jpg 
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ID:	397458  

  7. #7
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David_HX_RXP View Post
    The Fizzle I/C is the answer to your dilemma ---- and it comes with a Mounting Bracket which you would have to fabricate yourself with the Type 14 or any other general purpose I/C.

    Although they *look* similar, I asked the fabricator of this I/C the same question about what made his unit better than the Type 14 you looked at. Without getting into the technical details, just trust that there are *details* which make it better and purpose built for the SVHO.

    Buy it here >> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1945

    Now, to deal with the dedicated I/C line you will need a couple special parts to do it right.

    First, you will need to reconfigure the OE "Double-Y" Cooling Water Line Connector to alleviate the
    OE output to the stock IC, some people just remove the outlet hose and plug the hole but I
    chose to replace it with the same part from the cooling system of a VXR Model which
    doesn't have an I/C.

    p/n is 60E-12581-00-00 ( Hose Joint - $12.89 ) and can be purchased along
    with all the other items I will mention in this web site's on-line store

    Also, since you will definitely want to install a Strainer in-line to the I/C to protect it's Core, ( mandatory for Salt Water ) I recommend buying a couple extra lengths of 1/2" Yamaha reinforced I/C hose in your parts order.

    The single longest length available at 970mm is Yamaha p/n 90445-21807-00 ( L970 - $9.66/ea. )

    Get the Strainer in Jerry's online store here >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1432

    Now your going to need a couple obscure parts to put it all together - again, both available in this web sites' on-line store.

    The Single Outlet WORX Billet Jet Pump Strainer Plate >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3602

    TIP 1: Replace the 3/8" Barb'd fitting which comes with it with a locally purchased 1/2" Barb. x 1/4" NPT Brass Fitting to get max flow -
    TIP 2: Drill out every other OE Jet Pump Strainer Plate Hole with a 1/8" Drill ( don't remove the Plate )

    and the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1163

    A short piece of 1/2" Hose connected to the output of the replaced 1/2" Barb'd Fitting of the Jet Pump Strainer Plate connected to the outside Barb. of the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting is completes your dedicated water source.

    Connect the Through-Hull Fitting Inside 1/2" Barb. to the "IN" Side of the Strainer and the Output of the Strainer provides the Dedicated Water Source to your new Fizzle I/C.

    *If* you really think your water temp conditions require further cooling the engine, get a 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/2" "T" Fitting in-line with the dedicated I/C Water line you just installed and branch the 1/4" outlet of the "T" to the Engine Block Anode located on the Rear Intake Side of the Engine which you replace with the WORX Engine Anode Cooling Adaptor >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607

    There you go......

    Cheers !

    david-
    Excellent and detailed post!!!

    And I know Jerry would appreciate the props for his store. He has almost anything you could need and excellent prices and service!!!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by David_HX_RXP View Post
    The Fizzle I/C is the answer to your dilemma ---- and it comes with a Mounting Bracket which you would have to fabricate yourself with the Type 14 or any other general purpose I/C.

    Although they *look* similar, I asked the fabricator of this I/C the same question about what made his unit better than the Type 14 you looked at. Without getting into the technical details, just trust that there are *details* which make it better and purpose built for the SVHO.

    Buy it here >> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1945

    Now, to deal with the dedicated I/C line you will need a couple special parts to do it right.

    First, you will need to reconfigure the OE "Double-Y" Cooling Water Line Connector to alleviate the
    OE output to the stock IC, some people just remove the outlet hose and plug the hole but I
    chose to replace it with the same part from the cooling system of a VXR Model which
    doesn't have an I/C.

    p/n is 60E-12581-00-00 ( Hose Joint - $12.89 ) and can be purchased along
    with all the other items I will mention in this web site's on-line store

    Also, since you will definitely want to install a Strainer in-line to the I/C to protect it's Core, ( mandatory for Salt Water ) I recommend buying a couple extra lengths of 1/2" Yamaha reinforced I/C hose in your parts order.

    The single longest length available at 970mm is Yamaha p/n 90445-21807-00 ( L970 - $9.66/ea. )

    Get the Strainer in Jerry's online store here >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1432

    Now your going to need a couple obscure parts to put it all together - again, both available in this web sites' on-line store.

    The Single Outlet WORX Billet Jet Pump Strainer Plate >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3602

    TIP 1: Replace the 3/8" Barb'd fitting which comes with it with a locally purchased 1/2" Barb. x 1/4" NPT Brass Fitting to get max flow -
    TIP 2: Drill out every other OE Jet Pump Strainer Plate Hole with a 1/8" Drill ( don't remove the Plate )

    and the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=1163

    A short piece of 1/2" Hose connected to the output of the replaced 1/2" Barb'd Fitting of the Jet Pump Strainer Plate connected to the outside Barb. of the 1/2" Through Hull Fitting is completes your dedicated water source.

    Connect the Through-Hull Fitting Inside 1/2" Barb. to the "IN" Side of the Strainer and the Output of the Strainer provides the Dedicated Water Source to your new Fizzle I/C.

    *If* you really think your water temp conditions require further cooling the engine, get a 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/2" "T" Fitting in-line with the dedicated I/C Water line you just installed and branch the 1/4" outlet of the "T" to the Engine Block Anode located on the Rear Intake Side of the Engine which you replace with the WORX Engine Anode Cooling Adaptor >>> https://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...oducts_id=3607

    There you go......

    Cheers !

    david-
    Excellent and detailed post!!!

    And I know Jerry would appreciate the props for his store. He has almost anything you could need and excellent prices and service!!!

    ... just a little advice from someone who has already gone down that road. lol !

    As most enthusiasts here already know, the positive results we all seek are usually sequestered in the details -

  9. #9

  10. #10

    InterCooler External Supply Source

    Jet Pump with WORX Strainer Cover and 1/2" Brass Barb'd Outlet in correct Position to line up with 1/2" Through Hull Bunk -






    Jet Pump Well with 1/2" Through Hull Bunk Installed directly above Reverse Gate Actuator Rod outlet -
    ( yes, it's a tight fit but it will work )

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	WORX External Cooling Water Supply Side Barb. on J_Pump.jpg 
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Size:	63.6 KB 
ID:	397483   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	One_Half_Inch External Cooling Water Through Hull Fitting in Jet Pump Well.jpg 
Views:	647 
Size:	83.1 KB 
ID:	397484  

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