Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Just got a 2000 Ultra 150 and 2000 1100 STX Di

    So I came across a deal and ended up with the two skis listed in the title. The Ultra has 139 hr and the STX has 150. I have done a bit of research and know that I should replace the oil and fuel lines on these machines as well as seriously consider some other mods such as the triple pisser and pimer for the Ultra. I got the skis from friend of mine and know the history since they were new with no major problems as of yet. After doing some research, I am wondering if there is anything that I should go ahead and do for preventative maintenance such as top end or crankshaft bearings? Seems like there are lots of posts regarding crank bearings failing and piston burn. Found some other posts that mention a top end every 100 hours, one the says top end at 150 hours, and one that mentions crank work every 80 hours.

    I am relatively new to the pwc world. I took on a Polaris MSX 110 project over the winter and have it running quite well now. These Kawasaki's will be my second and third machines. I am very technically inclined and don't mind the work but also don't want to go overboard and waste time on something that isn't truly necessary.

    Thanks all, any recommendations would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    DavidR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Do a compression test on both. This will give you some idea of the condition of the top ends.

    The piston/crank failures you are reading about are usually due to clogged carbs from sitting too long with bad gas. Then the owner pulls them out of storage and tries to ride them, they run lean and burn up the motor. Or water gets in the motor and they sell it to an unsuspecting person who tries to run it and ruins the motor in the process.

  3. #3
    Well that is helpful for sure. Although I know the history on these, they sat all last summer so that would be about a year and a half. I don't believe they have any water issues but I was a bit concerned about the carbs on the 150. Should they be pulled and cleaned? I planned on removing all the old fuel and getting fresh. How about the injectors on the STX?

  4. #4
    DavidR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    If they run good, nice crisp throttle response, plugs look good, then you are probably good to go. If they have any kind of rough running, hesitation or bogging I would start looking into why. Don't keep running them thinking it will 'fix' itself.....because it won't.

  5. #5
    Gotcha. Just the 15 seconds that I had it started it seemed fine. Only hit the throttle lightly once and it had excellent response. Will take it to the ramp after my initial maintenance and pay extra careful attention to it. Thanks.

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Congratulations, nottaclue1!

    I really haven't heard of any significant problems with crank bearings. Balance shaft bearings if they're not getting oil, perhaps. Crank work every 80 hours??? Nonsense! Jet pumps need work frequently, but not cranks.

    Yes, you MUST inspect/replace the oil lines and secure them properly. Do not mix them up! Inspect the cable for the oil pump. If it's frayed, be careful to check the length of the replacement because Kawasaki made a bunch of cables that were too short. It's a pain in the ass to remove the old one only to find that the new one won't fit!

    I would recommend a top overhaul at 150-200 hours, and use genuine Kawasaki parts.

    Read this thread, it's got lots of good info:

    Somebody else recently asked for Ultra 150 tips, here's what I came up with:

    Remove the display and seal the rubber plug on the back with 3M 5200 Fast Cure. The rubber doesn't seal well when it gets old. If you flip the 'Ski, you'll get water in it and ruin the display ($$$).

    Odds are the fuel level sender is on it's way out. They expensive ($300+). Get a replacement while they're still available.

    New engine mounts might be a good idea. They are 16 years old. There are only 3 mounts, and if one fails, you can tear up the drive coupling or even the crankshaft.

    Inspect the cable for the oil pump, they're prone to fraying. Be advised that Kawasaki has shipped a lot of bad replacement cables, they're too short. If you have to replace yours, don't throw the old one away until you have verified that the new one is the exact same length.

    Some other mods that I found beneficial: Triple pisser mod to monitor water flow to the cylinders, water inlet strainer (keeps trash out of the cooling system), modified trim bracket (more UP trim makes the Ultra a whole lot more fun!), electric bilge pump (if you ever get a leak, you'll be glad you have it!), primers will make it a LOT easier to start your engine when cold. However, do NOT remove the chokes! They are a necessary part of the fuel metering system.

    Inspect the condition of the flush hose cap and make sure it's on securely. Most people remove them and put on a garden hose adaptor. I made a custom quick connector and special hose for my 'Skis.

    Order a pair of the long muffler mounting bolts for the later model 'Skis. (92151-3804). I guess they had trouble with them breaking off, so they changed from an 8mm bolt to 10 mm. Not something you need to change now, just the next time you remove the exhaust system. You will have to drill out the holes in the muffler larger, as well as drill and tap the holes in the manifold, but it's not difficult. When you put the new exhaust bolts in, put some grease on the screw shanks so they don't seize up.

    The gas spring on the front hatch is probably rusted badly. Kawasaki put a rubber bellows seal on that traps water and aggravates the situation. I had one custom made that was stainless. Don't worry about it until it fails.

    Speaking of rubber bellows, there is a small bellows on the trim cable at the back of the 'Ski. It keeps water from working it's way inside the cable and corroding it. Make sure it's in good shape. I would recommend taking it off, backing it with waterproof grease, then re-installing it. Secure with nylon tie-wraps. (Count the number of turns when you remove the cable end so you can put it back the way it was).

    The Ultra 150 is a great machine! It takes a little more maintenance than the other 2-strokes. It's not hard, just different from the others.

    As far as the STX, it seems like there has been a rash of control module failures. Very troublesome and expensive.

    Also, remove the front cover from the engine, remove the plate that the oil pump mounts on, clean the cooling chamber under the oil pump, and change the bearings on the oil pump drive. You can buy the bearings locally a lot cheaper than from Kawasaki, look for two 6901 2RS bearings.

    Again, seal the display on the STX, even though you're not nearly as likely to flip it.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2000 1100 STX DI Water Temp Senser Install help needed
    By keithg1964 in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-04-2013, 10:59 PM
  2. Just got a 99 Ultra 150
    By Saltwater n Premix in forum Kawasaki Open Discussion
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 09-24-2010, 07:58 AM
  3. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-17-2010, 12:13 AM
  4. 2000 1100 STX DI Broken rod.
    By btbsteve in forum Kawasaki Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-01-2008, 12:42 AM
  5. 2000 1100 stx di question
    By njseadooer in forum Kawasaki Open Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-25-2007, 02:46 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts