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  1. #11
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hotbutta View Post
    That crank with zero hours will sell for good money. This way you can do the 2016 upgrade.

    Thought about that but I'm going to stick with the stock stuff since R&D doesn't have cam gears avail for the new setup that I know of. I did however measure the cams and they are straight as an arrow and I also have a pre 2012 cam chain that I had in stock as a spare for years that I will be installing and scrapping the stock 2014 chain if indeed it may be a weak point.


  2. #12
    cfritz2012's Avatar
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  3. #13
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    My next step in the process was to mount an aux fuel tank in the front compartment. After air of thought and careful measurements, I ended using a BAM 10x18 round spun aluminum tank that will hold approximately 5.5-6 gal of fuel. I used 4 mount instead of the 2 it came with and omitted the aluminum straps and used 4 Kawasaki 750sx fuel tank straps as I needed about 22-24" of strap to make it snug enough. I then moved the storage compartment wall back 2" to allow enough clearance for the tank and good to close without interference plus give me a little bit of room to store a few small things. I measured it all up and drilled 8 3/4" holes and installed 10x1.5 well nuts into the base of the hull and mounting the cradles for the tank. I then took 8 OEM waterbox retainers and tweaked them to the angles I needed and stepped the tank in. Next step is to install the main tank and plum the lines.
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  4. #14
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    Next step is to cut the rear firewall down 9.5" to clear for intercooler installation.
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  5. #15
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    The next step in my process here is to locate the intercooler plate mounts. Now this kit does not come with written instructions at all but it does come with a thumb drive with pictures of various stages of the assembly process but it's not all totally clear all the time but the way things come assembled from R&D make it fairly simple to figure out. In the pictures on the drive it shows to use vice grips to hold, mark and drill the front bracket but it doesn't really show you the rear bracket but with some common sense, you can see when you dry fit the assembly that the rear bracket utilizes the upper stud on the transom plate. Simply remove the large washer from the transom stud and replace it with the rear bracket and you are good to go. Next simply mount the plate and strap in the intercooler and that's it. I will mount the cooler at a later time as I want to drill and plum my cooling lines under the intercooler plate while everything is wide open to do so.
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  6. #16
    PNW GPR's Avatar
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    This thing is gonna be sick

  7. #17
    YAMAHA POWAAAA !!!!! 1_Fast_SHO's Avatar
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    Can i ask why the extra fuel ?

  8. #18
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1_Fast_SHO View Post
    Can i ask why the extra fuel ?
    We like to do long distance rides and sometimes the stock fuel capacity is iffy in between some of the stops. I was also thinking I might endurance race this thing and a lot of guys say they need an extra 4-5 gal to finish the races. I'm setting it up to be a quick disconnect so if I need the storage or don't feel like having the tank in there, I can pop it out in like 2 min.

  9. #19
    YAMAHA POWAAAA !!!!! 1_Fast_SHO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jetpilot785 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 1_Fast_SHO View Post
    Can i ask why the extra fuel ?
    We like to do long distance rides and sometimes the stock fuel capacity is iffy in between some of the stops. I was also thinking I might endurance race this thing and a lot of guys say they need an extra 4-5 gal to finish the races. I'm setting it up to be a quick disconnect so if I need the storage or don't feel like having the tank in there, I can pop it out in like 2 min.
    Good idea,

  10. #20
    jetpilot785's Avatar
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    The next step in my process is the electrical box relocation. They send you a couple of brackets with the kit that you could use. The trouble I had with my particular case was the bracket for the fuse box didn't line up and would not work for whatever reason. I'm sure I could call R&D and have them send me another one that would work but after some thought and the fact I didn't want to punch numerous holes on the outside of the hull in the foot well to rivet the plate on, I elected to modify the stock panel and strategically place it in such a fashion that only 1 flush head screw could be seen on the outside of the hull and if so desired, a well placed sticker can make it disappear.
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