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  1. #11
    My lake house is about 1/8 to 1/4 mile from a major ramp. Every early summer, there are guys sputtering around my dock on 4TECS. They take off from the ramp for the 1st time in the season, and they get about as far as my dock when they realize something is grievously wrong with their ski and they stop. I ask them from my dock if they have changed their plugs since winterizing, and do they have fresh fuel. They all say no, and look at me like I am an idiot. Plugs never fail these days on cars, so they assume nothing can be wrong with the ones in their ski. Got into an argument last season with one of the guys. He said he was a mechanic, and there was no fricking way it was plugs. Bet him $100 it was bad plugs. Went up to the garage and grabbed new plugs, we installed them in his ski at my dock. He started the ski, drove away, ski ran perfect. Surprisingly, he came back to the dock and got his wallet out of the storage bin. Told him to just pay me $10 for the plugs. He was really embarrassed and was apologizing to me.

    I believe there is something in some brands of fogging oil that ruins plugs worse than others. I always take the ski out at the beginning of the season to burn out the fogging oil, and immediately replace the plugs.


  2. #12

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    Plugs will be swapped over the next few days and I will report if that has improved the situation.

    Thanks -Cole

  3. #13
    LouSki's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dood View Post
    I believe there is something in some brands of fogging oil that ruins plugs worse than others. I always take the ski out at the beginning of the season to burn out the fogging oil, and immediately replace the plugs.
    I have experienced this same thing, multiple seasons. I notice it more if the engine was not fogged enough for the winter storage. I find little speckles on the plug insulator. I am thinking it maybe rust from the valves or something.

    It starts fine and runs fine on the hose, but as soon as you accelerate with the ski in the water. the plugs short out. And yes they do indeed short out. I can measure resistance between the plug contact and ground. I also notice rust at the top of the plugs outside, where the insulator meets the base of the plug. It may be possible water finds it way down there and shorts the plug.

    So not sure if the plug shorts out externally or internally, but they do indeed short out. And looking at the ceramic insulator at the plug electrode looks fine, no carbon, etc, you would think the plug was fine.

    So after the ski is had it first run to burn off the fogging oil, I now change the plugs every season just like you

  4. #14

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    -thanks for all of the replies and tips.
    -Yesterday my dealer did plugs, oil change, a "full service" as they call it.
    -they called to say it was ready around 2:30 - I left work early to retrieve it, and was on the water by 3:45
    -started right up and still made some racket but was quickly silent and no RPM issues or stalling
    -today I start it up and it runs perfect out of water, as soon as water goes up the intake grate it is back to low rpm and stalling
    -after it quit I had to hit the starter button about 15 times and finally it started, I throttled it to 2000rpm for about a minute and then it was purring like a kitten throughout my 2 hours of riding today.

    So - I am thinking this must be jet pump related- or perhaps some issue with the impeller. I have no clue but it always runs perfectly after about two minutes of running in the water. Almost like some sort of bearing is messed up, "rusts itself stuck" during non use, and causing low RPM and difficulty on the next cold start. Then once some water gets in there and lubes it up it quiets down and is happy? Just a theory. I will keep riding until it fully breaks or my dealer has their water testing bathtub full starting in May.

  5. #15
    4tecs & plugs. Had this happen many times.

  6. #16
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    You could pull the pump. It's pretty easy, but I doubt that's your issue. Sound like it doesn't like to run cold. Maybe your idle controller really is messed up? Is the a way too check those?

  7. #17
    brendanm's Avatar
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    Tested the idle motor yet?

  8. #18

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    this is the "idle control valve or "idle air valve" or something like that, a part that is attached to the throttle body?

    From what I have concluded reading the Seadoo service manual is you should not mess with this / take it off unless you can reset it with the Seadoo factory computer.

    Does anyone know if this is true or not? I do not have a seadoo factory diagnostic computer.

  9. #19

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    following up on this -
    - took it back to the dealer as the ski got to where it would barely start and would take many many tries (perhaps 15-20 hits of the start button to "get lucky" - then manually throttling to 2500 for a while and then it would idle)
    - they checked/ swapped with known good ignition coils, fuel injectors, ecu, etc with no luck
    - compression was iffy but on the edge of bad for front two cyl, back cyl was ok
    - dealer ran ski at river and noticed bad noise and seeming calm once it warmed up some - but also noticed slow top speed of 55 mph and low peak rpm at 7500 or so
    - dealer performed leakdown test - when engine warm front cyl was 30% leaky, when engine cold front cyl was 100% leaky, middle cyl not much better, back cylinder OK
    - Best option presented to me was re-manufactured long block engine - had this installed, ski now starts up, idles, and rides like brand new
    - I am 2 hours into the 10 hour breakin period.

  10. #20
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Just out of curiosity, what were the compression numbers at the last check on the old engine? So the "racket at startup" was probably piston slap?

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