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  1. #11
    nicjak's Avatar
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    Pics for those that cant read nor understand step by step instructionss cant get any simpler. Punch one end out with a small socket to relieve the washer from the centre bushing Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #12
    nicjak's Avatar
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    if you cant squeeze the two washers together (pivot point pictured above) with your thumb and pointer finger and spin the outer assembly your tensioner needs lubing.

  3. #13
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    I put marine lube in there and the bushings in the Springs but it's time get rid of the idler pulley wheel as not being aluminum or SS it's rusted completely though it spins well on the bearing...

    Pick up a custom idler pulley for the 300 and Brisbane K Speed SC Pulley wheel for next season ...

  4. #14
    nicjak's Avatar
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    you always say we are special down under a picture tells a thousand words, maybe time to pick up the after ride care lol my pulley pictured at 150hrs has no rust..

    Quote Originally Posted by jetdave56 View Post
    I put marine lube in there and the bushings in the Springs but it's time get rid of the idler pulley wheel as not being aluminum or SS it's rusted completely though it spins well on the bearing...

    Pick up a custom idler pulley for the 300 and Brisbane K Speed SC Pulley wheel for next season ...

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by jetdave56 View Post
    I put marine lube in there and the bushings in the Springs but it's time get rid of the idler pulley wheel as not being aluminum or SS it's rusted completely though it spins well on the bearing...

    Pick up a custom idler pulley for the 300 and Brisbane K Speed SC Pulley wheel for next season ...
    Can you tell us a little about the Bribane supercharger pulley set up?
    How much boost does it produce and do you by chance know the diameter of the idler pulley? I looked on brisbanekawaski.com.au but didn't see it, is that where you picked it up?

  6. #16
    The key to a corrosion / rust free Engine Bay is to prevent condensation from forming when you put the Ski away after a ride. There are many ways to accomplish this (but probably another thread). JB

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  8. #17
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john belton View Post
    The key to a corrosion / rust free Engine Bay is to prevent condensation from forming when you put the Ski away after a ride. There are many ways to accomplish this (but probably another thread). JB
    what do you mean by " put the Ski away after a ride" John?

    Don't know what others around the globe do but all my skis are parked outdoors when not in use 365/24/7 with a OEM cover on of course (vented) and seat raised 2-3 inches and sprayed every few wks with Fluid film or similar , that's the best I can do and with Northeast weather changing drastically season to season your gonna get moisture of somekind in hull..

    But overall I don't give a Shit about some cosmetic rust as my Ski and past skis have ran great for 11 yrs with very very few issues,maintenance for reliabilty and performance is what matters..

    Dont think Nicjack can make that claim but does have a nice shiny idler wheel I'm jealous of

  9. #18
    nicjak's Avatar
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    we all dont live in a perfect world some are just lucky to have garages to store their toys, this obviously helps.

  10. #19
    Spooling's Avatar
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    It was really quite an easy procedure - and I am glad that I asked first because teh Service Manual was telling me to go another direction.

    So just to make it fool-proof for the next guy that has a desire to do this - and hopefully that person knows how to use the site Search Function:
    ---------------------------------------------
    Super Simple Procedure is as Follows:
    ----------------------------------------------
    1. Remove the chrome 12mm headed capped nut.
    2. Remove the 14mm headed capped nut.
    3. Put a 19mm socket and Breaker bar on the tensioner and pull to the right of the ski and clip the belt from under the tensioner pulley. Let the tensioner go and remove the entire tensioner now.
    4. Where the 14mm capped nut was you will see two large washers fixed to a center bushing. Pry one side off the washer has an internal o-ring. Now punch the whole bushing out the oposing side. You will see its all dry and powdery on the outer. Clean it all with a wire wheel and sand paper. Grease and re assemble.
    --------------------------------

    Many thanks for sharing this with me mate !!!
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  11. #20
    Spooling's Avatar
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    Got everything all back together - was certainly a nice job - done well.

    Thanks Again Guys for sharing your experience.

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