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  1. #1

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    Polaris SLH 700 (2000 Model) Help

    Hi, i recently bought a project polaris slh 700. I got all work that needed doing done and took it down to the lake to see how it was gonna go. First time out went to go out and after a few moments i got a hot engine light, so got it back to shore slowly and checked that the system was getting cooling around. Once i knew there was i tried again, again after a few minutes i lost all spark. Could not get it to fire, tried jumping battery incase this had dropped too low. But this was ok. Has a wiggle on cabling but no success, i tested resistance on coil and was getting 0.35 ohms on primary and getting 8.2K ohm on secondary which from my drawings i believe is about correct. Only weird thing i noticed is that on cdi there is a spare grey cable that goes no where. What is the purpose on that? Is this a common fault? Once i got home i turned it over and it had a weak spark and did turn over and start. Any help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    During initial water tests it can be useful to leave the hull strapped to the trailer front and back, then back it down the launch ramp so the jet pump is fully submerged. Now you can run it with the seat off and monitor the engine and watch for water leaks. You can also apply throttle, just make sure there is no loose debris near the jet pump intake.

    Are you sure you do not have the water feed hose from the jet pump incorrectly hooked up to the engine water exit? The hose from the thermostat housing should exit at a plastic hull fitting. The 3/4" water feed hose from the jet pump is very low on the right side of the jet pump base. This hose does not connect to the thermostat.

    Is the installed battery new? These engines require a really strong battery. My recommendation is the Deka ETX16 AGM battery.

    Inside the electrical box, does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module connect to other Red/Purple wires or does that CDI wire connect directly to the Orange terminals?

  3. #3
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    if memory is serving me correctly, as far as the Gray wire goes, the Gray wire should connect to the GRY on the board, that is generally the LIMP MODE( which would be activated in an overheat situation) it would not be of huge concern being unplugged, that will prevent limp mode from occurring. which tells me this ski might have been having this HOT warning before you bought it...

    A really simple way to tell if the ski is in fact overheating is to go ahead and feel the engine, you should be able to keep your hand on it for several seconds, if you can't then you are in fact over heating.

    If you can hold your hand on the engine, then its possible there is a bad sensor. The sensor is in the exhaust pipe, small bolt holds in a little clamp you will see one...wire coming out of it. again on memory that wire should be TAN, if that wire is getting grounded it will cause the over heat warning.
    Last edited by K447; 09-29-2015 at 03:16 PM.

  4. #4

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    Hi K447,

    i have had a look at purple wire and i have one red/purple going from cdi unit. This is soldiered to a red/purple from stator and a main 12v supply going from 15A breaker. According to the wiring diagrams i have this is correct.
    Cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    During initial water tests it can be useful to leave the hull strapped to the trailer front and back, then back it down the launch ramp so the jet pump is fully submerged. Now you can run it with the seat off and monitor the engine and watch for water leaks. You can also apply throttle, just make sure there is no loose debris near the jet pump intake.

    Are you sure you do not have the water feed hose from the jet pump incorrectly hooked up to the engine water exit? The hose from the thermostat housing should exit at a plastic hull fitting. The 3/4" water feed hose from the jet pump is very low on the right side of the jet pump base. This hose does not connect to the thermostat.

    Is the installed battery new? These engines require a really strong battery. My recommendation is the Deka ETX16 AGM battery.

    Inside the electrical box, does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module connect to other Red/Purple wires or does that CDI wire connect directly to the Orange terminals?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricey View Post
    ... I have one red/purple going from cdi unit. This is soldiered to a red/purple from stator and a main 12v supply going from 15A breaker. According to the wiring diagrams i have this is correct...
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ...
    Inside the electrical box, does the Red/Purple wire from the CDI module connect to other Red/Purple wires or does that CDI wire connect directly to the Orange terminals?
    That is indeed the factory working configuration for 2000 and earlier models.

    Polaris later revised the wiring to correct a no-warm-restart problem on some red engine ignitions. There was a service bulletin issued documenting the change.

    The symptom is that the engine will start and run, but after being shut off it will not restart (no spark) unless you wait several minutes. After about five minutes of sitting it will restart without trouble. Until you next turn it off...

    See my notes regarding how to implement Service Bulletin PWC-00-05. This change reroutes the CDI Red/Purple wire (and only that specific wire) to connect to the Orange terminals. The engine should then start and restart consistently.
    Last edited by K447; 09-30-2015 at 06:48 PM.

  6. #6

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    Thank you for that Keith. Dont suppose you could send me the link for this please? Cant find where i would find your notes? Cheers

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    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricey View Post
    ... the link for this please? Cant find where i would find your notes?
    Looking for useful Polaris PWC information? Click here
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  8. #8

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    Hi Keith,

    Thank you very much for your help with this. I have found the bulletin and I believe I am going to connect the Red/Purple of the CDI straight to the orange pins on the terminal board. So then I just connect the Red/ Purple of the stator and the Red/Purple of the battery fused supply together. I have gone through all my wiring and found a few loose connections in the bullets so have soldiered them all instead. I am hoping this is gonna sort the spark problem, I have also ordered some new HT leads for it. With regards to the cooling hoses I have connected them as per the parts manual. Which shows that there should be a main coolant hose going from the propulsion coolant inlet (with gauze) to the larger connection on the main exhaust chamber. This also has a T-piece in it which has a smaller pipe to go on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. There is then a small coolant hose which goes from one part of the exhaust to another. Then there is a manifold that sits on top of the cylinder heads and has a thermostat on and this exits through the top of the rear of the hull. So should spit the coolant out just above the jet drive. Does this all sound about right?

    Thanks again,

    Adam

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Tricey View Post
    ... the link for this please? Cant find where i would find your notes?
    Looking for useful Polaris PWC information? Click here
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  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tricey View Post
    ... the cooling hoses I have connected them as per the parts manual. Which shows that there should be a main coolant hose going from the propulsion coolant inlet (with gauze) to the larger connection on the main exhaust chamber. This also has a T-piece in it which has a smaller pipe to go on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. There is then a small coolant hose which goes from one part of the exhaust to another.

    Then there is a manifold that sits on top of the cylinder heads and has a thermostat on and this exits through the top of the rear of the hull. So should spit the coolant out just above the jet drive.

    Does this all sound about right?
    ...
    Cooling routing sounds right.

    Be sure to open the thermostat housing and check for debris, worn or jammed valve, etc.

  10. #10

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    Yeah, I thought it was about right. Im gonna sort out all the electrics first then gonna strap it to trailer and run it up/ check for leaks etc. I hope it sorts itself out and I can finally get it out then! Thanks a lot. Ill let you know how i get on. Cheers

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