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  1. #1

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    help with new engine install.... 1st start on xlt 1200

    so i installed a new 1200v engine in my 2001 yamaha xlt 1200. anyways i hit the start button a few times to get fuel thru the lines and finally it started. About 3 seconds after starting the rpm's starting rising drastically so i hit the "stop" button immediately. I had to stop working on it at that point cuz it was getting too late and i didn't wanna wake the neighbors. I am really hoping that it will be a simple idle adjustment by turning the idle adjust screw. I am going to test it out again in the morning. Any thoughts on this? someone i know had suggested that an air leak may cause that. Any suggestions or thoughts would be greatly appreciated due to the fact that i am very new to this but i do have a fair amount of knowledge cuz i read everything that i come across and spend hours every night trying to learn as much as possible.


  2. #2

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    I did oil block off kit and am running 40/1 premix . i have a D plate installed and i did full carb rebuild kit on all 3 carbs so i am pretty sure that i have run thru everything possible during my install and i am very anal at taking my time and doing things perfect to spec

  3. #3
    quadzilla's Avatar
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    Hey there Diesel...

    Did you pressure test the motor before it went into the hull.?
    - It's not a particularly difficult test to perform.
    - (it's believed that around 50% of all 2stroke engines built by anyone, Pro's included have some form of air leak from minor to motherfucker.!)

    Now then the fact that the motor turned off when you hit the stop button would indicate you "probably"? didn't have a lean runaway incident..

    Did you synchronize the carbs when you rebuilt them.?

    It's a a scary moment when one of these 2stroke fuckers run away with themselves..
    -meanwhile you're running around like a goddamn headless chicken...

    Anyway back your adjuster out all the way. (not so much it screws clean out the retainer, just enough it lets the throttle butterfly's close completely.)
    - then give it a turn and a half or so in when you see it just start to move the arm.
    - you will be shooting for around 2300rpm or so out the water. that should put you around 1100-1300 in the water.

    You'll likely have to use a mirror and a flashlight to see whats going on down in there.
    - that singer pipe is a bear to put in and out..

    .

  4. #4

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    -When you ask if i synchronized the carbs, are you referring to making sure that the carbs open and close at the same rate? Because, yes i did do that. I plan on starting it again at some point today. ill let you know how it goes.
    -I did not pressure test the engine before install due to the fact that i am very new to this stuff. I am pretty good with my hands and tools and i feel i have pretty good common sense and i love my mechanical toys so i decided that the only way id learn is to do it myself so i have many many hours or reading and research. Can i pressure test with engine in hull or do i need to take engine out again? How do i go about pressure testing?
    -im not sure how knowledgable you are but i have a few random questions that iv been wanting to ask but iv been keeping my questions to just my most important due to the fact that i don't want to aggravate everyone else on greenhulk by asking too many random/minor questions. But id be willing to transfer a few dollars to someone via paypal or something to let me have a small amount of their time to answer my random smaller questions.

  5. #5
    Ask all the questions you like! Don't be shy!

    That said, you probably just have the stop screw in too far. It takes VERY little power to rev the engine when out of the water. I know because the same thing happened to me when I rebuilt the carbs. Engine started on the trailer and immediately roared past 5k rpms. Keep backing the idle screw off until it will start and idle at 3k or below. You may need to adjust it again in the water for 1300 but 3kish is fine on the trailer.

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  7. #6

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    Update... So i started the engine again and it was idling at bout 3500rpm so i proceeded to back off the idle adjustment knob with no success of lowering the idle. So i reached down into the engine and put a little reverse pressure on where the throttle cable connects to the carbs and the idle lowered so i just have to back off the throttle cable adjustment a bit.
    But now i have a new problem, i believe i backed off the idle adjustment knob a bit too much, to the point where i think i may have threaded it completely out because when i tried to spin the idle adjust screw clockwise to get it back to the position where the idle adjust barely touches the lever connected to carbs. Does anyone know if it is possible to have backed it off so much to the point where it is not even connected anymore or is that not possible? I tried to stick a mirror in there to see if connected anymore but there just doesn't seem to be enough room to see the spot where the idle adjust knob connects to carbs..
    Even if this is true where i may have backed it off too much to the point where its not even connected anymore, do i even need to connect it again seeing that i can make the same adjustment via the throttle cable adjustment spindle that connects to carbs

  8. #7

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    Your throttle cable might stretch a bit and drop idle or not keep a consistent adjustment, might even cause it to wear out prematurely so make sure it's lubed well. Pretty much every throttle body has a solid idle stop of some kind so I would think it to be a key design feature for the longevity of your ski. I say run it like that till you can take the stinger off to get to it.

  9. #8
    silver93t's Avatar
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    You really want 50:1 for break in.

  10. #9

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    50/1 would be less oil. (50 parts gas/ 1 part oil).... since I'm running 40/1, do u mean that maybe i should be running more oil, like 32/1 ???

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    CRJ

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