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  1. #1
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    New to PWC arena - GP1200R - could use some advice!

    So, after a bunch of reading and research into getting a ski I landed on a local deal for an 01 1200r - 115hrs, compression tested at 117-118 across all three, gave $2500 w/ a trailer. He had receipts for new motor mounts that had just been done a few months ago along w/ 'cleaning' the carbs. Hull is solid, in pretty good condition, cleaned up nice. Not the hottest deal but not the worst, seemed to be well in line with everything else I saw in my area.

    First time putting it in the water I almost sunk it! Rode it a few miles to our dock (ran well), had it tied up and sat overnight, next morning it looked ok but that afternoon I came home to a half sunk ski full of water! Using our boat lift and boat I got it up out of the water enough to empty it out with a manual siphon pump (very handy to have). Referenced online, pulled the plugs and cranked the water out (took quite awhile) by hitting the starter for about 3sec at a time w/ a batt charger hooked to it. Got it to where it looked like it wasn't putting any more water out of the cylinders and put the plugs back in and got it start, had it tied where I could run it just above idle. It would run for a few min and then quit but would start right up again, I ran it until it would run on it's own without stalling and then took it in our inlet and hit it hard several times back and forth in short bursts trying to get it hot and dry/pump it out more. Was getting dark & pissing off the neighbors!
    Next morning I ran it the few miles back to the ramp and flushed it several times & ran salt-away through it, sprayed salt-away all over engine compartment and coated it w/ wd40 (was all I had - now have Fluid-Film). Changed the plugs (previous owner had BR8ES in it, not the -11's) and it has run well since. Think I dodged a bullet there... I'm pretty sure the drain plugs were loose, when I went to take them out to dump remaining water out of the hull they did not seem to be very tight. Have replaced them with new plugs since. Have ridden a pretty decent bit since then, takes on very little water riding in mild to rough water. I check it frequently while out and about. Have yet to do the 'tilt it back and fill w/ water' leak test - on the list.

    Where I have to ride is in bay water (Sarasota, FL), pretty much always a minimal chop and can get kicked up pretty good at times. I will very typically be riding light to moderate chop, glass pretty much never or rare. At higher speeds it porpoises' a pretty good deal and wants to jump out of the water instead of staying hooked up. As a newbie riding in chop, it's hard for me to tell the difference between bouncing and porpoising - pretty sure it's doing both! Runs about 55 by phone gps. Don't know what the rpms were, pretty hard to see. Need to add a tach to my to-do/wishlist. Stock grate/plate, has metal trim tabs - also stock. Sponsons are currently all the way down, haven't moved them yet.

    So far, I've put a D-plate & chip in (that stinger is a PITA!) and cleaned the powervalves up just by going through inspection covers, was happy to discover SBT PV's - no need for the clips I had already bought and intending to put in at that time. The PV's themselves were pretty gunked up. The PV servo connection was heavily corroded and not functioning, re-wired it and it functions fine now but I'm not convinced they are working as they should under power. Got a dumb question for clarification in regards to D-plate: now that the cat is gone do I have to stick with Yamalube while I still have oil injection?

    The plugs are wet & a bit oily when I pull them, hopefully a carb rebuild will help there. Will be my first time doing carbs, think I can handle it with all the documentation there is here. I'm sure I'll have a handful of stupid newbie q's

    On my to-do:

    Seal pump shoe (have kit & LifeSeal)

    Pump bearings and seals (already have them ready)

    True up grate/pump/plate when they are replaced

    Oil pump by-pass? (at very minimum, do clamps on oil lines - what kind?)

    Rebuild & jet carbs, & use accel pump for primer - need FA's

    Try stepping the sponsons

    Wishlist is:
    FA's so I can rebuild and rejet carbs to specs in sticky)

    Solas Concord 13/19 (what I should get by what I've read, I'm open to suggestion?)

    Grate - 800 or 1200???

    Ride plate - could use some suggestions here for mild to rougher water. I've done a ton of reading about it and still can't seem to figure out what will serve me well. I'm thinking it's narrowed down to R&D or a Shredmaster (if I can find one). Not looking for absolute top speed, more of an all-around - better handling, a bit faster than stock would be nice.

    If anyone has anything I could use that you are looking to unload, please let me know!

    I would really appreciate anything anyone has to offer in terms of advice or thoughts for my setup. I've got to say, I've been on a lot of forums - you guys here at GH rock! I've learned so much from reading and it's pretty awesome not having to wade through a ton of crap for good solid info that is openly shared by well-meaning folks. Hats off to all the previous contributors of years gone by and those of you who are still active and helping us newbies out! I'm a total DIY guy and know enough to A: do it as right as you can, B: pay strong attention to the voices of experience
    Thanks again... - Jeff


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
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    Only need to run the yamalube or equivalent with a cat from what I have read. Without a cat you can run whatever you want. If you have the stock oil lines make dang sure they are hooked up and not tight. The oil lines shrink and pull apart over time. I replaced them with tygon line and used zip ties for now. Oetiker clamps are what is recommended. I didn't have the extra money or time to wait for ordering them when I rebuilt mine. Oil pump block off kit is cheaper then clamps and new line but mine is a family ski and I don't trust people to do the premix lol.

  3. #3
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    I thought I had read a bit about there being some controversial thoughts on damaging the pump w other oil, was hoping to hear some more voices of experience. I do like the convenience of injection and its always the right ratio (or at least what Yamaha wants it to be w cat in as stock configuration). I'll probably block it off and never look back, don't have the concerns of others gassing the boat. Oetiker clamps look great until you have to get them off, would be worth it for peace of mind though...

  4. #4

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    Nah, I've probably got 40 quarts of cheap wally world oil through my pump (don't judge me) and both pump and engine are fine. Tygon lines and oetiker clips are the way to go. My clamp tool also has a cutter head. Use one side to clamp, the other side to cut off.

  5. #5
    Nice job on getting that ski started after filling it full of water. Get yourself an electronic bilge pump. Rule makes a PWC version that can run dry and automatically kicks on every 30 seconds and stays on if it "feels" resistance of water being pumped. You can't use float bilge pumps in PWCs because they bounce around too much which breaks them. If you have any questions feel free to PM and I can go into detail on how I did the install.


  6. #6
    Prism's Avatar
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    If you leave the ski in the water and are concerned about finding a swamped or sunken ski again...get a builge as mentioned but instead of a float switch, use a Waterwitch. Its a fully electrionic switch with no moving parts. I have on on my ski and its been working great for about 5 years now.

  7. #7
    jeffg426690's Avatar
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    Thanks, Prism. I like the Waterwitch idea, makes a lot of sense and about the same cost compared to the Rule 25s without it running on and off all the time. Thank to all the feedback from everyone!

    Gonna be wrenching on this thing a bunch in the very near future. If I go ahead and seal the pump shoe and transom can I do the grate and plate afterwards and still make adjustments lining it up and getting it all leveled out? Planning on doing the pump bearings and sealing it first before anything else. Got a Solas 13/19 on the way but will wait on that until I have a grate and plate to do it all together.

    Meanwhile doing my homework on carb rebuilding and jetting. Can I make a pop-off tester myself? I have air...

  8. #8

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    Jun 2015
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    I made a pop off tester. 1/4 ball valve, psi regulator, 60 psi gauge and some cheap 1/4 clear hose. I used a cone fitting from my mighty vac to fit in the needle and seat port. Started regulator high and turned regulator down till it stopped popping off then eased it up to get a constant pop off on all 3 carbs. I then had to cut the springs till I got to my target pop off on all 3 carbs. You have to get a pool of wd40 around needle and seat to get it to pop otherwise it will just Crack and hiss.

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