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  1. #1

    SL700 No spark after ignition upgrade

    I'm a tech and did the swap out with the kit ('96 to gen3). The unit had a weak Ignition module previously. I have no spark. I am testing the excitor voltage at the purple wire and am only getting 5 VAC (connected or not to module). Impedence is testing 5.5 Ohms, per spec. I can't find a voltage spec for this but I am assuming it should be in the triple digits. I had a good look at that flywheel before I reinstalled it and saw no cracks, no loose magnet. Did I fart during reinstallation? If the magnet was loose, would I not hear that while cranking?
    Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Check the stator black wire ohms to engine case ground. Should be 0.0 ohms. The stator ground is through one of the stator mounting bolts. sometimes thread lock compound can interfere with the grounding to the actual engine case.

    Also check that the inline connector in the stator cable is good. No bent pins, pulled wires, etc.

  3. #3
    grounds verified good. I had to adjust the pigtail wires out of the new stator for length as they go through the grommet. They were too long out of the box and when I was installing the stator realized that the ring gear would contact them. I am suspicious that perhaps the purple wire may be rubbing against the flywheel, grounding out the voltage. I am currently pulling it apart, the ring gear teeth haven't hit anything but maybe underneath. Gotta pull flywheel again to see. Hopefully it comes off a bit easier this time.

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  5. #4
    Before I even signed up for help I read hours of postings on this site. Great archives. I just found one now though that rang true. A user named Clive had an issue with his unit after ignition upgrade and someone asked for some readings. One of his replies was the voltage on the purple wire when cranking. 4 VAC. No one caught that as unusual as his impedance reading was good. Like mine. His fix? return the new stator and CDI box and replace. I don't want to condemn a brand new stator without being thorough but it's looking that way. The CDI module should be able to be completely disconnected from the stator and I should still get my high AC voltage when I am cranking the engine, should I not? Testing between the black and purple wires. Can someone support my thinking on this?

  6. #5
    I am logically working through this problem and who knows it might help someone else later.
    By said logic, in looking at the schematics for this stator it would seem that even if the stator was not grounded to the engine block it should still generate voltage when the flywheel is spinning. With the CDI disconnected there will be no current draw and high voltage so a poor connection would be unlikely given that the impedance checks correctly. Low voltage, high current maybe but this is the opposite.
    The magnet is good. No cracks, not loose. What else could it be?

  7. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDan View Post
    I am logically working through this problem and who knows it might help someone else later.
    By said logic, in looking at the schematics for this stator it would seem that even if the stator was not grounded to the engine block it should still generate voltage when the flywheel is spinning. With the CDI disconnected there will be no current draw and high voltage so a poor connection would be unlikely given that the impedance checks correctly. Low voltage, high current maybe but this is the opposite.
    The magnet is good. No cracks, not loose. What else could it be?
    The aftermarket (China) magneto stators seem to be hit and miss. That would be my first suspicion.

    There have been a couple of instances where the magnet ring in the flywheel (as used on the red carburetor engines) became magnetically weak. Why the magnet strength faded is open to speculation, possibly impact with the ground or excess heat from a torch during removal?
    Last edited by K447; 08-10-2015 at 09:34 PM.

  8. #7
    Carburator flywheel? Is that like Muffler Bearings? Or a reciprocating dingle-arm (look it up) Ha Ha. I appreciate the comments (K447). I am an anal bastard when it comes to my work. My working theory is this; if you do everything perfect and there is a problem it's probably the equipment. I think I am going to take the risk and order another stator from John at Martos Motorsports. He seemed reasonable on the phone and that's important to me.

  9. #8
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Find a Polaris OEM stator if at all possible.

  10. #9
    No heat applied during removal, have popped hundreds of flywheels before. My working theory is this; if you melt the loctite you had better order a crank seal. Why risk it? A nice rap on the end of a fully loaded puller will generally do it without the heat. I think about flywheel magnet problems but I am going to bet on the stator. And I will probably be wrong because of my luck. It's an ongoing project so for and the benefit of all that read this I WILL keep you you posted. Place your bets now, folks...

  11. #10
    MSX 150 guy lives on Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    The last flywheel I pulled, a somewhat gentle hit with a 2lb dead blow on the face of the flywheel made it pop off. No heat required

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