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  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Frederick, MD
    Posts
    18
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    Getting ready to spend some money on pump parts...

    I wanted to get the advice of the experts on here before I pulled the trigger on some parts for the rear end of my 2001 XLT1200.

    I was putting off buying the parts until off season but recent cavitation issues while pulling tubers has moved the timeline up. So in my cart (from the store on the forum) I have...

    R&D Intake grate
    R&D Ride Plate
    Pump seal kit
    Solas Concord impeller

    I was under the ski today and noticed a piece of the rubber gasket hanging down from between the intake duct plate and the ride plate. I also noticed that a previous owner hit a nasty bump and cracked the intake duct plate so I'll have to pick one of those up from ebay. Peeked up at the impeller and the edges have some nicks. Looks like someone attempted to remove the bolts on the intake grate and broke one off.

    So from my research here it looks like I need to heat up the bolts with a torch to get all the bolts out. I feel pretty comfortable with the mechanical work but I wanted to double check and make sure I don't need any other parts before I pull the trigger. Any gaskets or other bits that don't come with the parts that I will need? I also have been reading and it doesn't seem clear if the impeller comes with the removal tool or not. Also in the forum store the impeller description does not provide the pitch #'s. Am I to assume that the Solas Concord from the store is a stock replacement? I am stock under the seat other than a d-plate and waveeaters so I don't need a crazy impeller, just something similar to the stock unit.

    Am I on the right path here? Thanks for any input!

    Oh and here is a pic of the banged up pump area...



    The crack is in the area of the top left bolt on the intake duct plate (is this part usually refered to as a different name?) in case its not clear.

    Also, this pic shows where the gasket was hanging down. I pushed it back up in there the best i could...



  2. #2

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Frederick, MD
    Posts
    18
    +1
    2
    Alright so I ordered up the parts a few weeks ago and got them put in today. Install wasn't too bad. Put a torch on the bolts and used the 3m 5200 to seal it all back up.

    I mentioned before that the pump shoe was cracked on the bottom side prompting me to pick up a good condition used one on eBay. When I pulled the cracked one out I was surprised to see that a previous owner seemingly cut out the opening where it meets the grate. I am assuming they were looking for more water flow.

    In all the threads I have read over the years I have never heard or seen this being done. Do you guys think this would hurt or help performance? I get 7k+ rpms at full throttle. The ski hits 54 on the GPS. I have been getting a bit if cavitation lately under heavy load (2 riders, towing etc) Hence why I put the PPK, grate and ride plate on.


    Can't wait for it to cure up and get it back on the water to see what she can do. If I get more top speed great but I'm really looking for restored performance and better lift getting out if the water.

    What do you guys think?

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Frederick, MD
    Posts
    18
    +1
    2
    Got it out on the water today and man am I satisfied!

    First and foremost...no more cavitation! My impression of the R&D Aquavein Intake Grate, R&D Ride Plate and R&D Pump Plug Kit is great. I also installed a non cracked, non chiseled, stock pump shoe so I am not sure the impact the previous shoe was making but the whole setup provides higher top speed, better handling and a better holeshot. It certainly gets out of the water a lot better.

    I used the 3m 5200 to set the plugs and mount the shoe to the hull. I also used it to fill all the seams between plate, grate and shoe.

    I had a full tank, I weigh 155 and saw 58-60 mph on my phone's GPS speedo. I was riding on glass like water.

    Previously the dreamometer would read a couple MPH slow vs. Actual speed. Now it reads a few MPH faster than actual speed. Thought that was interesting.

    Just thought I would share the results.

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