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08-09-2015, 06:47 PM #1
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- Aug 2013
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06 GTX Wake, Big leak from drive shaft after pump replacement
So a couple months ago, a buddy ran my GTX Wake onto a sandbar, sucked up rocks, and tore up the impeller and pump splines. The splines had chunks missing, but none were entirely broken, so I just replaced the impeller. First ride was ok, but it was a little down on power. So I replaced the pump housing as well, with this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sea-Doo-Jet-Pump-Housing-GTX-4-SC-Ltd-Wake-RXP-GTI-Speedster-Sportster-/261189759697?hash=item3cd01f72d1&vxp=mtr
First ride today on the new pump housing, and the thing starts great, but quickly loses power. The hull is filling with water, engine is half submerged, big problem. Towed it back to land, and watched it drain out of the drive shaft. I've attached a picture of the problem area, with the cover pulled back. The water is coming in (and going back out) between the bellows with the clamps and the shaft. I can't make heads or tails of the instructions for the driveline in the manual. Can you guys help diagnose, and walk me through fixing it up? I'm happy to take more pictures if needed.
Is that pump housing just a piece of crap that blew my shaft seals or something?
(I've already run through the Service Manual's submerged motor procedure. Changed oil, performed the boil-off, fogged the cylinders, etc. Dipstick is clean now, no milky water showing on it. I think the motor is fine, I just need to seal up this huge leak.)
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08-09-2015, 07:01 PM #2
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- Mar 2006
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impeller spun loose from the pump shaft-- the water is the least of the problems that can happen. You may have gotten lucky (you would be the 1st).
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08-09-2015, 07:02 PM #3
The silver ring on the drive shafts should be back against the carbon ring at the front of the bellows.
Can you push it back? Did it loose the c-clip under the silver ring?
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08-09-2015, 07:22 PM #4
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- Aug 2013
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- 17
The silver ring doesn't appear to move at all. Maybe it's seized? I pushed the bellows back, didn't see any c-clips or related grooves.
If the impeller spun loose, wouldn't it just not move at all? It seems to spin up and move water. I'll pull the pump and check it tomorrow after work.
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08-09-2015, 08:41 PM #5
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- May 2008
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- Elephant Butte New Mexico
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the c-clip popped off..and it looks like some time ago from the corrosion in the pic.
you need to get that silver bit " the top hat" to slide back on that shaft. DO NOT get oil on the carbone part, that will ruin it. cover it with masking tape and some plastic.
Once you get the ring to push back, you'll see the groove in the driveshaft for the cip. Might as well buy two..one will certainly disappear into the bilge when you try to install it.
The clip hold the tophat agist the carbone bit and the rubber bellows provide some pressure to keep the seal effective.
almost sure sinkage when that clip flies off.
perhaps the rubber driveshaft bumpers were not in place.
check parts diagrams, lots of talk here, as a frozen top hat is a pretty common shop problem.
Seadoo does make a tool to push that hat back..you need to pop the clip to remove the driveshaft.
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08-09-2015, 08:54 PM #6
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- Aug 2013
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- 17
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08-09-2015, 09:00 PM #7
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08-09-2015, 09:17 PM #8
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- May 2008
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- Elephant Butte New Mexico
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I've used a ball joint fork and some 2x4's a few times. Big rubber mallet and a helper are good.Easy to get hurt using alternative methods.
The tool is under $50 and it will be handy for assembly.
I'd drop a $50 to avoid one big cut or smashed finger
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08-12-2015, 05:44 PM #9
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- Aug 2013
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- 17
So weird story. I used the tool to push the hat back, and there was the circlip, still in place, *under* the collar. The only thing I can think is that I had to give the pump a good tug to get it out, but I didn't use any prybars or anything. So ????
Anyway, before I go replacing that circlip, it looks like the bellows doesn't push the hat all the way back to it. If I pull the hat back to contact the circlip, the carbon ring *just barely* reaches the hat. Definitely not tight. Do I need a new bellows? Or maybe the carbon ring got shoved too deep in the bellows, and I can just pull that out 1/4" or so? I've attached a pic of what it looks like now. How would I know if I need a new carbon ring?
Last question. (for now) I'm guessing not, but is there any way to bench-test water-tightness while on the trailer? It would be nice to know if it's close before towing all the way to the river.
(oh, and thanks a ton for the help. You guys are great!)
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08-12-2015, 05:48 PM #10
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