2000 Genesis Plug wires

[BrianLG]

Hello,

I picked up a 2000 Genesis for the kids to mess around with. When I got it, it would not do more than 40 MPH at 5000 RPMs. I took the carbs off and cleaned them up and checked settings, along with replacing all the fuel hoses. There was no difference in performance after that. When you take off, it's strong up to 3/4 throttle, but has nothing after that. Opening the throttle up has no effect. It wounds like it's dropping a cylinder past 3500 RPMs. I found a new coil, so I was swapping that out this weekend. I should have taken pictures of which wire went to which plug on the new coil, and now I don't know where they go. If someone could tell me, looking at the ski from the right side, closest to the air cleaner, which order the plugs go onto the coil, that would really help me a lot. I have looked at the info here, but I don't know which is MAG and which is PTO. Any other ideas as to what is causing the performance issues? I also noticed that even after riding for a few hours after the carb rebuild, I have air bubbles in the air lines around the fuel filter and tank connections.

Thanks,

[K447]

Welcome

There are two different ignition coil packs used on the red three cylinder engines, with different spark plug wire sequences.

Try this method. Connect only one plug wire to the MAG (front) cylinder. Crank the engine, see if it will sputter or start. If yes, that is the correct wire for the MAG cylinder. Mark that wire and disconnect.

If first wire does not fire the MAG cylinder, switch to the next wire, again connected to MAG cylinder only. Check for start. One of the three wires should fire up when connected to MAG cylinder. Mark it as 'MAG' and disconnect.

Now connect one of the remaining wires to the CEN cylinder. Figure out which wire fires that cylinder. Mark it as 'CEN' and disconnect.

Take the remaining wire and connect to PTO cylinder (only). Engine should again fire up. Mark that wire.

Now you can connect each marked wire to the correct cylinder.

[BrianLG]

Thanks for the tips there. I got the plug wires squared away and now she starts and runs pretty well. It won't go past 5000 RPM's and 40 MPH. It's strong out of the hole but then seems to be dropping a cylinder or not getting enough gas. So far I have done the following:

Cleaned and reset carbs. Idle and low/mid range seems fine
New coil
New spark plug wires
New fuel lines
Cleaned water separator and took care of an air leak at the o ring there.
Compression is 150 on all three cylinders
Spark plugs are new and properly gapped, and look pretty uniform, light tan

It almost seems like it's hitting a rev limiter or something because it won't go over 5000 RPM out of the water either. Trying to abive that it sort of sputters.

What are the next things I should be looking at?

[BrianLG]

One other thing, there are two air inlets up by the fuel valve. One goes to the fuel tank vent and the other has a long that reaches all the way to the back. It was just laying in the bilge and I cant figure out what it's supposed to be connected to. Where does the second air inlet connect to? Hmmm

[K447]

Does the display say Reverse or have a red flashing light while the engine is running?

[BrianLG]

No, that seems normal. When you put the reverse gate down the light comes on but when when in forward, it's off.

[K447]

One other thing, there are two air inlets up by the fuel valve. One goes to the fuel tank vent and the other has a long that reaches all the way to the back. It was just laying in the bilge and I cant figure out what it's supposed to be connected to. Where does the second air inlet connect to? Hmmm

Battery vent nipple, if the battery is an old style lead-acid type.

Sealed AGM batteries (Deka ETX16 recommended) do not have a vent nipple so the vent hose is not needed/used.

[K447]

... starts and runs pretty well. It won't go past 5000 RPM's and 40 MPH. It's strong out of the hole but then seems to be dropping a cylinder or not getting enough gas. So far I have done the following:

Cleaned and reset carbs. Idle and low/mid range seems fine
New coil
New spark plug wires
New fuel lines
Cleaned water separator and took care of an air leak at the o ring there.
Compression is 150 on all three cylinders
Spark plugs are new and properly gapped, and look pretty uniform, light tan
...

Are you using the correct spark plugs?
NGK only, no substitutes.

[BrianLG]

... starts and runs pretty well. It won't go past 5000 RPM's and 40 MPH. It's strong out of the hole but then seems to be dropping a cylinder or not getting enough gas. So far I have done the following:

Cleaned and reset carbs. Idle and low/mid range seems fine
New coil
New spark plug wires
New fuel lines
Cleaned water separator and took care of an air leak at the o ring there.
Compression is 150 on all three cylinders
Spark plugs are new and properly gapped, and look pretty uniform, light tan
...

Are you using the correct spark plugs?
NGK PZFR6H only, no substitutes.

This one is carbed, so I am using BPR9ES gapped to .026".

[BrianLG]

Here's an update on my little project. The latest is that after cleaning the hull real well I see some oil/water mix collecting near the back. The ski also runs a lot better with the seat off, nearly as well as it should, so I know I have an exhaust leak to track down and fix. That will be a project for this weekend. I also have air bubbles in the new fuel lines I installed. All clamps have been checked. On one of the curved metal pipes going through the fuel tank cap it is loose and looks like air could be getting in there.