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  1. #1

    Gpr almost catastrophic failure

    Pulled my ski apart to figure out what happened last fall ( leaking fuel ) I'll let the pictures do the rest. Weird part is I have never been inside the motor bought it with low hours an it ran like a champ. Pulled apart to rebuild carbs an found this. Last fall a fuel like started to leak from dry rot.
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  2. #2
    I have a few questions ?

    where would be the best place to get a complete carb rebuild kit, with needle an seats and a T handle adjuster set up?

  3. #3
    bikermikeyblack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Kingston Springs Tn
    Up at the top of the page is where i got all my carb stuff use mikuni kits they jets & watever else u need

  4. #4
    Huntersthmsn74's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Naples, FL
    use the greenhulk store. they have everything you need and you get a member discount if you use the code greenhulk at checkout

  5. #5
    Did the engine eat the power valve? If so your going to have to tear apart the entire engine to get all the missing pieces...which is what I'd consider catastrophic...then again I'm only an amateur mechanic at best...

  6. #6
    Looks like a carb rebuild is the least of your problems in this case, but still needs to be done if you do all the other repairs first. You gotta pull the crankcase apart to find that missing reed petal (may have already turned into dust), find if there are pieces of a power valve floating around (I find it hard to believe an entire power valve would get eaten and you don't have major engine problems like holes), clean out the piston pieces or metal bits from the crankshaft, check crank bearings and rods for damage (bearings should be liquidy smooth and ideally tight too if they're not damaged). Replace your reeds (check the other 2 sets of reeds for burning, chips...etc, but they probably should just be replaced regardless). Your cylinder in the pic above may be scored. If so that'll need a replate depending on how bad it is. You need a piston + rings too, and you'll want to check the cylinder head above that piston for pitting. It may not be that bad though as you didn't lose too much piston. The cylinder head dome really should be nice and smooth, no nicks or pits as that encourages detonation. You'll need a power valve too, and waveeater clips for all the PVs. I dunno I'd take the thing apart, assess damage, price out parts, and determine if you want to spend the several hundred (maybe even into the thousands depending on internal damage) on other stuff before buying carb kits and t-handles. Anyway if you get that involved w/ the engine, you might as well do a lot of the other reliability improvement mods stickied and talked about a lot on this forum.

  7. #7
    I'm not intending the post I did above to be all doom and gloom, and hopefully the extent of your damage isn't bad, but you won't know till you pull it apart. You don't want to put money into it only to have something else fail right after the repair.

  8. #8
    OP what does the cylinder wall look like?

  9. #9
    After a long conversation with the previous owner. I finally figured out what happened to the motor. He paid a guy to fix it after the pin fell out of the power valve and killed the motor. The guy was supposed to completely redo everything. It has One new cylinder on it for the rear bank. And the bottom end was completely gone through with new bearings but reuse the crank it was still in great shape. The guy was supposed to put a d plate in the exhaust and never did. From what I found I'm taking everything a part to get to this far along is this supposed a guy who was fixing this was a total hack. I have found plenty of missing bolts in places and stripped threads so I've taken the time to completely fix the threads. They piston was not replaced as I can tell but they rear jug is new.

    All new parts include
    jug, bearings, head, gaskets. ( from the hack job mechanic )
    i have put
    carb rebuild, new PV, D plate, wave eater updates reeds as well

    I have another jug an piston just in case nut this ran with out the valve for 15-20 hours but was just a little sluggish on the bottom end. I was completely suprized on how well it did like this.

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