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  1. #1

    What do you think about this piston wash?

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    Clearly its lean. Carbs are off at Rich's for a rejet and some love. Reeds didnt look so hot either, V3s are on the way

    It looks lean clearly. It also looks like it started to melt? Other 2 look the same as far as wash, but different texture. The dome of the head isbalso clean. Compression is good and even, unchanged since break in. That top end has about 6ish hours. It did suck some water, the coupler boot popped off and killed the motor. No cylinder scoring. Check valve in#2 was creased. Needles worn. Low speeds not drilled, factory setting.

    Run it?


  2. #2

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    Rob when you say suck end in some water - fresh or salt and was it through the intake or in the exhaust. ( assume you are referring to the exhaust coupler)?

  3. #3
    Prism's Avatar
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    If compression is unchanged and there is no cylinder scoring I'd run it. Definately richen it up and work your way leaner. If you're uncomfortable finding max RPM and then richening it up a tad, the only other way is to use a borescope (homedepot) and look through the sparkplug hole at the wash. Just work your way slowly. The borescope method will take a couple of trips but will get each cyl to the desired wash. The max rpm method works well on a cool fall day. This will leave the mixture rich enough for most all other weather you'd encounter throughout the year without fear of being lean. Set that way most times it will be slightly rich. Was there any wash on the other pistons or did they all look that way? Is that the cyl with the crease? I never realized you were using stock carb settings... it never occurred to me to ask. I just assumed you were using OsideB's specs. The carb jetting will cure this if you were using stock jetting before. You have flame arrestors too don't you? Man you got lucky that exhaust coupler leaked when it did! Sorry Rob, I thought you were jetted differently.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by MalinTas View Post
    Rob when you say suck end in some water - fresh or salt and was it through the intake or in the exhaust. ( assume you are referring to the exhaust coupler)?
    Yes. The rubber coupler between the stinger and U pipe. Fresh water. No salt. Ski bogged and died carbs sucked water.

  5. #5

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    What do you think about this piston wash?

    I reckon you are ok. I assume you dried it out and fogged it after the boot failure. I had a similar thing happen ( in salt which is a BIG difference) and I had little end bearing failure a couple of months later. Depends how keen you are to get back out on the water.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Prism View Post
    If compression is unchanged and there is no cylinder scoring I'd run it. Definately richen it up and work your way leaner. If you're uncomfortable finding max RPM and then richening it up a tad, the only other way is to use a borescope (homedepot) and look through the sparkplug hole at the wash. Just work your way slowly. The borescope method will take a couple of trips but will get each cyl to the desired wash. The max rpm method works well on a cool fall day. This will leave the mixture rich enough for most all other weather you'd encounter throughout the year without fear of being lean. Set that way most times it will be slightly rich. Was there any wash on the other pistons or did they all look that way? Is that the cyl with the crease? I never realized you were using stock carb settings... it never occurred to me to ask. I just assumed you were using OsideB's specs. The carb jetting will cure this if you were using stock jetting before. You have flame arrestors too don't you? Man you got lucky that exhaust coupler leaked when it did! Sorry Rob, I thought you were jetted differently.
    Alan. I thought I was jetted different too. The guy I bought it from wrote down the specs for me....nope.
    120 mains
    110 pilots
    2 turns on the highs
    Lazy bastard didn't touch the lows.
    110 spring.

    Rich said all the rubber was shot, like stretched and worn.
    Also there was the wrong oring used some place, not sure where though
    Yes flame arrestors
    Also said new reeds, nope stock worn reeds.
    Creased valve was in number 2
    All the pistons have the same wash, or lack there of. Just 3 looks like it got hot.
    I've now got the water from number 3 dumping overboard. Capped the one port on the pipe and dumped it out the back.

    Symptoms: ski idled rough. Felt like it was rich and loading up.
    Breaking the throttle into sections, the final 1/4 opening I'd actually decrease speed. Indicated drop from 72 to 68 from 3/4 throttle to full throttle. That was a new problem. Did that after it sucked water.

    I did remove the plugs and crank it until dry, then ran it and it did fine. It was the next couple rides that I noticed carb issues. Thinking sucking water creased the valve?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by MalinTas View Post
    I reckon you are ok. I assume you dried it out and fogged it after the boot failure. I had a similar thing happen ( in salt which is a BIG difference) and I had little end bearing failure a couple of months later. Depends how keen you are to get back out on the water.
    With the head off, she hand cycles smooth. I dried it and then ran it within a hour of it sucking water.

  8. #8

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    The other thing I have done for my gpr is invest in a set or versiplugs (self draining one valves) for this reason

  9. #9
    Prism's Avatar
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    I bet the symptoms you were having were 2 fold. The thing was jetted lean (especially mid range) and that exhaust coupler leaking didn't help. I've never experienced it, but I heard of skis running like ass when that coupler leaks. Those flame arrestors with stock jetting send shivers up my spine. I burnt a 99 GP1200 down adding arrestors and not doing a thing to jetting. Didn't go enough turns or change any carb settings. It lasted a few days and then melted #3. That whole story sucks and you got left holding the bag. Maybe someone jacked the previous owner as well...never know. At this point you'll be better off with everything done right and known. By the way...nice speed with stock carbs!

  10. #10

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    The thing is corrosion. Drowned a few surf stand ups and the only sure way I have found to be 100% sure is either strip or run at temp for 15+ mins.
    Mal's theory # 47 on why PwCs fail and why I spend more time wrenching the riding is that moist warm air rises and will condense in the on the cool surfaces normally underside of piston and in the little end bearing area.
    Corrosion once it starts = failure in the future.

    I am salt water rider... Fresh water might mitigate theory#47

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