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  1. #1

    99 Genesis FICHT EMM codes to address

    It's worse than I thought...here we go:


    • 83 - CENTER ignition coil open primary
    • 43 - coolant (water) temperature sensor above expected range
    • 49 - air temperature sensor above expected range
    • 47 - air temperature sensor circuit malfunction
    • 17 - alternator voltage below expected range
    • 82 - PTO ignition coil open primary


    First, thank you K447 for building your knowledge and then sharing it with the community. I made my own LED tool and retrieved the codes with the instructions you laid out.
    It's already a sticky, but here's a convenient link: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...light=led+tool

    Alright then, where do I go from here?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Clear the EMM codes. Then run the engine briefly. Shut it down. Then re-read the codes.

    Sometimes old codes stick around for a long time and may not mean anything. If someone was unplugging things and then running the engine, that will also trigger codes.

    Clearing the codes and running the engine allows you to see what codes recur.

    Sometimes the exhaust temp sensor can get cooked if the engine was run for too long without cooling. You can ohm check the sensor or just replace it.

    PTO ignition coil open would be a problem if it recurs.

  3. #3
    I thought the lingering code theory could be a possibility, but it does have running problems thus I couldn't be sure. Do you know how long the engine has to run in order to re-trigger codes? I ask because I'm not confident I can get it to stay running long enough at the moment.

    Here's the timeline: after I acquired it the engine would not stay running. Basically it'd fire and last a couple seconds (I was NOT priming the throttle bodies). The regulator on the fuel pump is fine because I had the pump all apart. I had to replace the nipple section on top of the pump because two of the nipples were broken and "repaired" with epoxy. The repair was actually decent, but it created a smaller bottleneck in the nipples for about an inch at that point. So, I figure either the engine wasn't run long with this repair in place or enough gas was getting through regardless because the cylinder compression tested okay when I was buying the thing. In other words, a piston didn't develop a hole due to leanness. Anyway, I wasn't standing for that so I fixed it. I bought the cheap minivan pump just to get the part I needed and swapped it in. I installed an inline pressure gauge (permanently) on the return line and the subsequent pressure test was fine (20 as-is, 30 clamped). I then replaced the LR503 which didn't change anything. Then I replaced the large capacitor in the EMM and it became a little better to the point where sometimes I could get it to stay running. The idle didn't sound the greatest but sometimes I could get it to take a throttle blip.

    I was anxious so this was enough for me to water test it. I kept it on the trailer until I was confident I could get it to accept some throttle. Off the trailer it died 2-3 times before I realized idling wasn't going to work. If I gave it slight throttle it'd stay running. Once I cleared the no wake I increased the throttle and it died. It would never restart right away, I had to wait about 30 seconds every time. I finally did get it to open up. I'd be going along and it'd just die. At one point I had it over 50 on rough water, so when it was running it seemed fine. I'd seen enough so I headed back. It died a few more times mid throttle on my way back to the ramp. During the trip back it went into SLOW mode. Ugh. Loaded it up and returned home. Swapped in a different CPS - no change in behavior. Unplugged the TPS - no change in (idle) behavior. The only electrical measurement test I've tried so far is the voltage test on the red/white wire but it came back as something ridiculous in the range of .2 to 1.08 even though it was still starting for a second or two (again, no priming). I was sticking a paper clip up the harness plug beside the red/white wire on the MAG injector with it still plugged in. Is there a better location for testing red/white?

    I have another 99 EMM (claimed to be ready to go) on the way because I'm growing tired of the slow fix since summer is winding down and am hoping that plugging it in will result in a fast fix. If that doesn't do it then I'm going to have to pull off the flywheel cover. I'm not looking forward to that but I do have a snake camera with a diameter of about 7mm so I should be able to inspect the magnet situation without actually pulling the flywheel. I'm just afraid of what I'm going to see.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Engine only needs to run for a handful of seconds to record fresh trouble codes, IF there is something incorrect happening at that time. For example, a TPS error that only occurs at mid-throttle and above won't get recorded if the engine was just idling for a short while.

    Stored codes do not affect current engine operation. As soon as the problem cause goes away the EMM will recover immediately. Clearing codes does not make any difference to how the engine runs.

    The Ficht codes are primarily historical but if a problem is ongoing and still happening right now, then the code will stored and the EMM may also run in SLOW mode.

  5. #5
    Yeah, evidently a couple of seconds is enough because I swapped in another EMM which was clear and it picked up 47 & 49. I ohm tested the air temperature sensor and it didn't give me anything, so I have one ordered. I stuck a 1000 ohm resistor into the wire harness for the air temp sensor and it didn't change any of the running behavior, or lack thereof.

    Unfortunately, it's beginning to look more and more like I have a magnet issue on the flywheel. All three injectors only show 10.8 volts when cranking. The ignition coil secondary resistance ohm tested to spec, but the primary coil to ground test gave me the same readings instead of .05-.15 ohm. There was no continuity to ground on the primaries but there was on all three secondaries. No good, right?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elprup View Post
    Yeah, evidently a couple of seconds is enough because I swapped in another EMM which was clear and it picked up 47 & 49. I ohm tested the air temperature sensor and it didn't give me anything, so I have one ordered. I stuck a 1000 ohm resistor into the wire harness for the air temp sensor and it didn't change any of the running behavior, or lack thereof.

    Unfortunately, it's beginning to look more and more like I have a magnet issue on the flywheel. All three injectors only show 10.8 volts when cranking. The ignition coil secondary resistance ohm tested to spec, but the primary coil to ground test gave me the same readings instead of .05-.15 ohm. There was no continuity to ground on the primaries but there was on all three secondaries. No good, right?
    Where are you putting the 'grounded' meter probe when doing these ignition coil checks?

    Is there a wire harness ground wire right at the front ignition coil mounting bolt?

    Note that in the early days the factory production wire harness for the 1999 Genesis FFI machine was known to develop faults (corrosion) at the splices, often in the ground wiring. Some dealers were automatically removing the entire wire harness and installing an updated replacement from Polaris. Polaris may have changed suppliers after the 1999 production batch of wire harnesses gave trouble in the field.

    So be aware that you could have issues with the wire harness itself, especially if the harness was never swapped out for the revised version. One member a few years back ended up pulling the harness out and re soldering dozens of connections, especially at the splices and connectors.

    Wire harness issues can make you crazy, especially if they are intermittent.

  7. #7
    I was grounding the one meter probe on a head bolt.

  8. #8
    resistance test==========.manual specs==========my readings
    primary coils==========.05 - .15==========low 300s - I grounded to head bolt
    secondary coils==========225 - 325==========within spec - I connected secondary terminal to primary



    continuity test
    primary coils==========no continuity to head bolt ground
    secondary coils==========all three had continuity to head bolt ground

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