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  1. #1
    rcab85's Avatar
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    clutch stopped freespinning

    she used to spin a lot longer now she just stops pretty much immediately after I kill it, and it sounds a little noisier than I remember no performance loss yet. question is is she about to let loose #1 and #2 I have a 2015 svho clutch I got from a friend cheap brand new, do I need the sprag gear to match and will it work? I bought the tools a while ago just in case but I would like to buy the gasket and whatever other parts I need to do the job so im not out of commision.


  2. #2
    Orange FZS's Avatar
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    Yeah your clutch is on it's way out. The wheel stopping immediately is not good and could break the supercharger shaft. You will need the newer idler gear if you want to run that 2015 clutch. Pull the supercharger and make sure you havnt lost any teeth off any of the gears.

  3. #3
    KensGp kenlepack's Avatar
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    Clutch is going out bro.

  4. #4
    rcab85's Avatar
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    crap crap crap ok so just get the 2015 idler gear and the oil cover gasket?

  5. #5
    rcab85's Avatar
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    fucking intercooler line popped off in the middle of the bay and must have fried it.

  6. #6

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    Had the same thing happen , toasted the clutch

  7. #7
    KensGp kenlepack's Avatar
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    same here inter cooler feed was disconnected, blew the clutch 2 mins later lol

  8. #8
    rcab85's Avatar
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    Makes me a lot more interested in the R&D water cooled housing.

  9. #9
    AWA MEMBER
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    Get rid of your C1 wheel it's heavier than the stock wheel and that's what is hard on your clutch....a water cooled housing won't keep it from happening again

  10. #10
    HydroStream6's Avatar
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    The weight of the R&D wheels doesn't really add much stress to the system. The torque needed for a given acceleration of the wheel (and therefore the force the clutch applies) is determined by the moment of inertia (I) of the wheel. Since the wheel is not a normal shape, the calculation gets very difficult. If you approximate the shape as a disc (which is actually a worse case than the true shape, since the actual wheel carries more of it's mass near the axis of rotation than does a disc), you can get a good idea of how the different wheels weights affect I. The added diameter of the C3 actually causes a larger delta I than the added weight. See attached pic. You can see that the C3 wheel has about a 17% larger I. Interesting to note that if the C3 were the same diameter as the OEM wheel, I is only 3% larger (due to the weight).

    Now remember, this would all be a worse case scenario because we are approximating the wheel as a disc, which it is not. The actual numbers would be even less.

    So saying the weight of the C1, C3, xxx wheel is killing your clutch, really doesn't really add up. Yes, the ET wheels will be easier, but the R&D wheels aren't as bad as everyone makes them out to be. And this doesn't take into account the added torque on any of the aftermarket wheels due to the added boost pressure.

    Just my point of view. If money was no object, I too would run the ET wheels. But the difference between the two manufacturers gets exaggerated on this forum.
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