Virage & Others Coil Primary Wiring Connector Source or Cut-off from Scrapped Harness

[martincom]

Found the source of my miss and "Check Engine" (error 81) message today. The Mag primary coil feed broke off the terminal, inside the heat shrink sealing the boot exit. It was intermittently losing connection cause a miss or just running on one cylinder.

The LED diagnostic connectors for reading EMM fault codes that K447 had detailed was instrumental in finding this problem.

The primary coil connection is something I've never seen. It is like a spark plug nipple, but smaller in diameter. I'm looking for a connector that will mate with that smaller nipple and crimp/solder on to the #18 wire of the harness. Does anyone know where such a terminal can be sourced? If not, does anyone have a scrapped wiring harness that would be willing to cut that terminal off with a few inches of wire tail from the harness for me?

I've temporarily repaired it with a female bullet connector, but I'm concerned about how secure that connection will be with all the vibration, moisture and so forth.

[K447]

Photo of the failed piece?

I can mail you a connector, if it is what I think it is.

[martincom]

PM sent

[martincom]

K447,

Here is a photo of the connector I require:



The wire color is orange/blue.

Here is the photo of the cobbled exhaust that I mentioned in my PM. I don't have time to get dirty this afternoon and take it apart to measure the diameters.







This mess of rubber hose and clamps is suppose to items 27, 29, 31, & 32. Item 32 is not a rubber hose, but a molded plastic tube. The 2002 Virage I and earlier, these items were a single rubber hose, which appears to be the same shape as this assembly of components. My questions was if that hose from a 2002 could replace these components in a 2003 or 2004 Virage I.

[K447]

I cannot quite tell from the photo, is the plastic resonator (item 30) still present or has it also been removed or bypassed?

[martincom]

K447,

As usual, you're right on top of things. If they melted the molded hose, they may have melted the resonator as well.

I couldn't really see it, either. However, I thought I felt the ribs of the resonator when I reached back in there---it is back in there. It is raining here now and that is the forecast for most of the day. It is outside on the trailer and I don't have room in the shop for it right now. If we get a break in the rain, I'll go out and inspect further and get those tube diameter measurements as well.

[K447]

... melted the molded hose ...

Before you next run it, be sure to check and clean the exhaust water injection orifice and mesh filter screen. If these become clogged the result is a cooked exhaust, typically damaging the rubber and plastic pieces.

Items 9 and 10 in the cooling diagram

[martincom]

K447,

Thanks for the tip on cleaning the water injection orifice & screen. It appears this was ran in "dirty" water, from the build up on the hull. So that could very well be an issue.

I did manage to check the other things between rain showers. The resonator, item 30, is in place and has no indications of heat deforming:



I also removed the cobbled exhaust hose:



The muffler outlet diameter is 2.625". I couldn't work the caliper into position to obtain an accurate measurement of the resonator inlet. So I measured the inside diameter of the short hose, 31, (shown sitting on top of jet pump tower in the photos) and it is 3.0". This hose appears to be the OEM hose between the resonator, 30, and the plastic molded tube, 32. So that should be an accurate representation of what is required.

[TxVirageTx]

replacement hose from an sl750 and a aluminum adapter to connect the different size hoses together

[K447]

... It appears this was ran in "dirty" water, from the build up on the hull. So that could very well be an issue...

Also check the plastic mesh screen inside the jet pump exit nozzle. It filters the water coming from the jet pump that then runs forward into the pump base and onwards to cool the engine. The plastic screen is the size of a postage stamp, tucked inside the nozzle on the right side.

Open up the thermostat housing and verify it is clean inside and that the thermostat and adjacent bypass valve are actually present.