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  1. #1

    1996 kaw zxi1100 starts, runs, restarts. Then wait 5 minutes and it won't restart.

    Hello everyone. I appreciate any insight on this because it's driving me crazy.
    I have a 1996 Kawasaki zxi 1100 that's been sitting for many years. But I got her out, drained the tank, replaced the plugs, and she fired right up and ran. Then I turned her off, tried starting immediately again with success. Then I waited 5 minutes, and it won't start. Just turns over and floods. The spark plugs are wet. Dried the plugs with no luck. I took the carb off and cleaned it, put it back together, and it started again (with a spray of starter fluid). Ran it then turned it off. Waited 5 minutes and it wouldn't start AGAIN. Here's the kicker. I have cleaned the carbs 6 times over the last two weeks and cleaned the return line. EVERY TIME I get the same result. SO FRUSTRATING. I don't think it's electrical since it's starts every time after a cleaning. But I have no idea what it would be.

    I guess one question would be, what happens to the engine AFTER you turn it off??? What processes does it go through that would cause it to not start after a few minutes?

    I'm so lost and need help.
    THANKS


  2. #2
    steve45's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard, Norman!

    Have you tried running it in the water? If you're running it on the flush hose, you do know that you should NEVER allow the water to run unless the engine is running, right?

    That said, these things aren't really designed to run out of the water for long periods. This does not load the engine very much and it will run rich, hence the wet plugs. If it's been sitting for a long time, it's possible that oil may have seeped through the system and ended up in the crankcase, fouling the plugs.

    How did you clean the carbs? Did you take them completely apart and put overhaul kits in them?

    Other things to check before you ride it:

    Look at the lower front portion of the hull for a triangular bowl-shaped piece. It's a required mod that keeps the 'Ski from flipping over at high speed. The air induction hull design turned out to be unstable at high speed and a number of people suffered the consequences. Your local dealer should be able to get the parts and cover the repair for you.

    Inspect/replace the oil lines. They get brittle with age and crack. Best to replace with polyurethane hose and secure with stainless steel safety wire. On the 1100 engine, it's a real good idea to remove the front cover and replace the two bearings on the oil pump drive coupling. The oil pumps are very reliable, but the bearings can go bad. Remove the small plate on the front cover (under the oil pump) and check for dirt and debris. Replace the two O-rings on the small plate.

    Look at the back of the 'Ski, by the jet pump nozzle. The trim cable should have a rubber bellows on it. Make sure it's secure and in good condition, it keeps water from working up the cable into the trim motor box.

    Tell us when you get ready to tear into it, I'll get you part numbers.

  3. #3
    Steve,

    Thanks for such a quick response. I appreciate it.

    To to answer your questions:
    - When I run her on land, I of course use a hose. But before turning it off, I first turn off the flush hose, then pump the throttle a few times.
    - I did put her in the water a day after the first time she ran. She reluctantly started on land that morning, but eventually did. Then put her in water and again reluctantly started, but did. I ran her for 5 minutes on the water and turned her off. Waited 10 minutes, and she wouldn't start again.
    - I basically take the carbs apart and clean them with a carb cleaner. The first time I did it, I found green gum. I believe it's basically the old gas vs the new gas which has screwed up many of my machines. The gaskets and everything look fine. So I haven't used a kit yet. BUT with that being said, why WOULD it start right away, AND I can re-start her 10 seconds after turning her off??? BUT if I wait a while, it won't start??? I hear some noises after the engine is off. What is the ski doing? That might be the million dollar question.


    I "thought" I had it yesterday when I blew into the return line. I felt a little resistance, but cleared it with a breath. I thought "maybe" after I turn it off, it tries to clear the lines and gets backed up instead. Thus, flooded. Idk. Regardless, I got the same result after putting her back together. So frustrating.


    As for for your other questions:
    - yes I do have the V. Thanks.
    - I haven't done anything else to it yet. I was hoping this was going to be a quick fix. And if she ran, I would then make it a winter project to fully tear her down.

    Again, thanks for your quick response. I really hope someone can help. I'd love to get back on this thing now that I live on a lake.

    Norm

  4. #4
    steve45's Avatar
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    Perhaps the needle valve is leaking. After you shut it off, fuel pump pressure leaks past the needle valve and floods the engine, making it hard to start.

    I'd put carb kits in it (use genuine Keihn kits) and make sure the internal fuel filter is clean.

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  6. #5
    Hi Steve,

    Do you sell the carb kit? I tried to look for it in here, but didn't have any luck. Cost? Part #?

    As for the internal fuel filter, do you mean the inline one from the gas tank to the carb? Otherwise, I'm not sure what you mean.

    THANKS,
    Norm

  7. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    layu off the starter fluid. nothing good comes of that. use a little squirt bottle with premix instead.

    at the oe parts link above you can order just about any Kawasaki part. pull the carbs off, and inspect.

    you can test the leaking needle theory by shutting the fuel off a few seconds before you stop the engine. Just a few seconds.

    then see if it restarts easily.

    uou can also try a little fuel ( maybe a teaspoon, in one of he jugs and see if it spins up.

    Idle speed and mix adjustments are important to allow easy starts when hot.

    Sometimes starting a hot engine requires a little finess..like maybe 1/8 throttle

    if they are cv carbs, be carful during dissaembly. those parts are surprisingly expensive.

    you'll know a lot more after opening up a carb.

    order new carb manifold gaskets also

  8. #7

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    It's hard to find OEM rebuild kits for some carbs. The dealer only sells individual pieces.

    Best carb supply I know of is Sudco.

    http://www.sudco.com/PersonalWatercraft01.html


    there are aftermarket kits available, I have used them before without a problem on two sets of triple carbs but maybe Steve can shed some light on why he doesn't recommend using them. They are easy to find on eBay.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Kawasaki...fba96d&vxp=mtr


    the aftermarket kits I used, and from the looks of it, the one above as well DO NOT come with gasket PN 43049-3713.

    Why? I don't know because the kit has the jets that go beneath it so the jet case has to be removed, it is the packing for the jet case, you have to order separate from the dealer or Sudco.


    http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...-jht10ae006977

    in the 1996 parts skematic above it does not show the individual gasket I'm talking about for your ski just as an assembly PN 16087. Looks to be the same part. Regardless no packing is shaped like that in the eBay pic of the rebuild kit.


    now 1998 shows the part# 43049 in the schematic.

    http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...s-jh1100-a3-a4


    Im not an expert on the difference between the 96 and 98 carb so maybe someone else can shed some light on the subject. I'm just trying to save you the same hassle I went through thinking I was rebuilding carbs in an afternoon when instead I was driving to the dealer for 3 more gaskets!

  9. #8

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    http://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oe...-jht10ae006977


    the fuel filter I believe Steve mentioned is on each carb...just a small strainer.

    Look at part 49019 in the diagram in the link above.

  10. #9
    steve45's Avatar
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    No, I don't sell parts. I sell oilfield services.

    Yes, part # 49019-3707 is the strainer that you should check. The '98 models had the CV carbs, which are totally different from the older ones.

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  12. #10
    DavidR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve45 View Post
    No, I don't sell parts. I sell oilfield services.
    I wonder if our companies know each other. I work for Barco Pump and our Hobbs, NM office services the Midland area.

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