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  1. #1

    2000 GP1200, 60mph top speed, wear ring?

    Hi all,
    What top speeds can I expect from this ski? 60mph was what I got on the GPS this morning with a mostly full tank of gas. I'm running:

    D plate and sensor chip
    Riva flame arrestors w/ chokes removed.
    Wave eater clips and PV coupling upgrade
    New, indexed spark plugs

    To my knowledge everything else is stock.

    Ski is pretty old, about 280 hours, but compression still tested good and I've just rebuilt the carbs and changed the fuel filter.

    Edit: See latest post for pictures of wear ring clearance.
    Last edited by Helsinky Smashrod; 07-31-2015 at 01:35 AM.


  2. #2
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    I just bought the same model ski about 3 weeks ago, did the updates, and rebuilt the pump. At 6600 rpm (way low I know) mine did 58 on gps. I'm doing the carb rejet per Oside Bill's sticky. It should get me back to 7200 rpm. I am thinking it will do 62-3 once I get it back together. Mine has 125 hrs.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Helsinky Smashrod View Post
    Hi all,
    What top speeds can I expect from this ski? 60mph was what I got on the GPS this morning with a mostly full tank of gas. I'm running:

    D plate and sensor chip
    Riva flame arrestors w/ chokes removed.
    Wave eater clips and PV coupling upgrade
    New, indexed spark plugs

    To my knowledge everything else is stock.

    Ski is pretty old, about 280 hours, but compression still tested good and I've just rebuilt the carbs and changed the fuel filter.

    60mph is a solid number for a ski with 280hrs. What was your specific compression numbers.

    A corroded or rough ride plate can eat up a few MPH easily, same with trim tabs. You should ensure the PV's are adjusted properly.

    Also, the prop, wear ring, stator condition can eat up MPH's. A flashlight and look see thru pump nozzle is easy to check.

    Also verify the exit nozzle vertical adjustment needs to start equal in the neutral trim position.

    That ought to keep you busy!



    EDIT: Rider weight also matters.

  4. #4
    Compression was about 110-115 on all cylinders. Power valves are adjusted properly because I just installed a new one (accidentally killed my original). Exit nozzle appears properly alligned.

    What am I looking for when I shine a light into the back of the pump? I know what a wear ring is but I have never had a ski's pump apart so I'm not totally sure...

    Also I'm about 160 lbs.

  5. #5
    [QUOTE=Helsinky Smashrod;2603736]Compression was about 110-115 on all cylinders. Power valves are adjusted properly because I just installed a new one (accidentally killed my original). Exit nozzle appears properly alligned.

    What am I looking for when I shine a light into the back of the pump? I know what a wear ring is but I have never had a ski's pump apart so I'm not totally sure...

    Also I'm about 160 lbs.[/QUOTe


    Exit nozzle will only "appear" to be OK when you specifically measure it. Do u have the factory service manual?

    The light allows you to see the gap between the edge of the impeller(and it's overall condition) and the surrounding wear ring/housing. After the impeller, there is a stator that has veins, are these all in tact? no chunks missing.

  6. #6
    I have a service manual for it. I thought the stator was at the front of the motor? Either way the veins in the back of the pump are all intact. I can see about measuring the vertical allignment in the morning. Also how much gap is too much for the wear ring? I don't really have the time to tear into it before vacation but am just trying to get an idea on what still needs work.

  7. #7
    Here are the pictures of the wear ring. Sorry if some aren't the best, the lighting isn't too good in there!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit: Manual says about .6mm is the maximum tolerance. Seems like a really small amount.

  8. #8
    butterbean_29512's Avatar
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    It's hard to tell by a pic. In english, the pump specs are .010-020, service limit
    .024. I have the same model ski, I modded the carbs per the "recipe", d plate, flame arrestors with water socks, and drilled carb returns. Mine runs 60 also. I'm 215 lbs. Mine looks like it's turning about 6800 rpm at WOT. What is your WOT rpm? Also, remember to run aftermarket FA's on that engine you have to rejet per the recipe. Mine runs really well, I just water tested it today. Good luck with it...lemme know how yours turns out.
    .

  9. #9
    Interesting, I've rejetted and rebuilt the carbs. I'm thinking it may be a tad rich so I plan on backing off the highs about 1/8 of a turn. Also I'm going to drill some holes under the front cowling to open up the engine to more airflow. For some reason one side is completely open yet the other side has a thin fiberglass panel blocking that air intake. Does yours have the same issue?

    Edit: Did some guestimating using a coat-hanger that was .09'' in diameter. Looks like the gamp is about .04'' which is pretty far out of spec! Looks like I may be replacing it on my first day of vacation. :/
    Last edited by Helsinky Smashrod; 08-01-2015 at 04:07 PM.

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