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  1. #1

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    Question msx 150 limp mode

    Hello . I bought this jet ski from the guy what never give me much history on it soo ... check engine light is on and red light flashing continuously. Off the water it runs good and RPM go up to 8000 no problem (only did it for 20 sec max,or connected to the water hose) . Once I put it on the water it wont go over 2600-2750 rpm .I found later power shut down sensor was missing and bypassed with wire to run . I bought new one put it in but check engine light still on and RPM still limited . Is where any way to clear the codes and get out off limp mode ? or if everything is fixed it should go away on it own ? Also was wandering if wiring diagram available somewhere? only one I can find on this forum got bad resolution .Hope somebody can point me in right direction


  2. #2
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    1) You should always start the motor in reverse when out of the water, and don't let it rev. 8000 rpms out of the water is not good for it at all.

    2) Please report back exactly what RPM you can reach in the water and we'll go from there.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by HiPeRcO View Post
    1) You should always start the motor in reverse when out of the water, and don't let it rev. 8000 rpms out of the water is not good for it at all.

    2) Please report back exactly what RPM you can reach in the water and we'll go from there.
    .

    Hello ,it is around 2800 max and speed no more 6 MPH .i tried to rev it out off the water attached to the hose .it goes no more 3500rpm . Does check engine need to be cleared to exit limp mode ?

  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Welcome to GH Serge!

    So your auto shut-down module (SIFB) was missing? Hmm... wonder what other "engineering" might be done to your craft.

    Codes can only be read and cleared with Polaris' dealer-only Digitial Wrench software. Sadly, most Polaris dealers, while still using DW, don't work on pwc anymore (or have the special cables needed to connect DW to a pwc).

    Most check engine causes... once fixed... will turn off the CEL (check engine light). But there are some conditions that persist beyond repair, such as MAP sensors fouled from oil ingestion. In many reported cases, only a reflashed ECU back to stock, or a new ECU has fixed those troubles.

    So, to help you... need more information. And you will need to inspect/check a bunch of things.

    - Does the engine start and idle... at a steady 1500-1550... on the trailer (always engage reverse on the trailer)?

    - What spark plugs do you have? What do they look like?

    - Where is your oil level in the oil tank? Is your oil clean or milky/foamy?

    - What color is you coolant in the coolant jug? Is there any oil slick gunk floating on top the coolant in the jug?

    - Pull the intercooler-to-intake hardpipe off... look inside. Any heavy oil or gunk in there or at the throttle body? Push open the throttle body butterfly and shine a flashlight into the intake manifold. See any pooled oil or gunk in there?
    -- with the hardpipe off... put in the lanyard and tap the starter button (do not start) to power-up the system. Should hear fuel pump humm and throttle body (ETB) click. Slowly squeeze throttle trigger. Does the ETB butterfly open/close fully in sync with your trigger?

    - Take off your valve cover and re-torque the head stud nuts... to ~60ft.lbs. Then put valve cover back on. Pull spark plugs out and do a compression test on both cylinders. Report your #s.

    - Any other connectors not plugged into anything... possible missing items?

    Let's start there...

    Cheers!

  5. #5

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    I have taken map sensors off and they look somewhat clean . Compression on both cylinders 132-136 .throttle and pips look cleanish ( white dry stuff on it ) . Oil at the level and good colour . PlugsBosch brand newer . Only think i can find door by the turbo was hard to move ,had to wiggle it for a while .do you have wiring diagrams for this machine ? Want to check it ,in case somebody did something to it

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    What's a pip?

    Oil at what level? Min? Max? How did you check it? It's not checked the "normal" way.

    What # is your spark plug?

    I assume by turbo "door", you mean the wastegate. Yes, that should open an inch or so and snap shut under spring pressure. Lube the wastegate arm where it comes out of the manifold to keep it free and moving. Seized is bad.

    What about your coolant?

    What about confirming ETB throttle sync?

    Wiring diagram here: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=231997

    Cheers!

  7. #7

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    [QUOTE=ripcuda;2602753]What's a pip?

    Found manual on this machine might help somebody
    http://seadooreviews.weebly.com/uplo...0_150_shop.pdf

  8. #8

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    So I checked all the wiring is good .Oil at the level ( i checked after run for 30 sec it is at the bottom of the stick ) .Coolant is clean .No sludge or oi gunk anywhere in the system. Idle is good for 2-3 seconds (1500-1600 rpm) after it goes up to around 3000 rpm and stays this way ...I run it for few minutes attached to the hose still high Rpm . where should i look next . Anyway I can test MAP sensors (already swapped them around once )

  9. #9
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Good about wiring, oil and coolant.

    Hmm... it should idle steady. If there's one thing a Weber is good at, it's idling. That rise in rpms sounds like a possible leak at the ETB to intake manifold boot... or the intake manifold MAP (missing o-ring?)... or the banjo feeding the small hose for the BOV and FPR (leak in there somewhere?). I've seen pinholes in the ETB boot... and other boots not clamped tight to the intake... and others where the ETB is not tight to the boot.

    While you have the hardpipe off checking out the ETB... check throttle trigger ETB butterfly sweep. Ensure it goes full open and closed in sync with trigger. Do the ETB relearn to be sure.
    [lanyard in, tap starter (do NOT start), should hear fuel pump humm and ETB click. squeeze trigger slowly to full, hold 2 secs, let trigger out to zero, pause 2 secs, repeat twice more, pull lanyard, wait a few minutes]

    I'm guessing you still have the CEL flashing and red light blinking.

    Don't know of a way to test MAPs... w/o DW to watch the sensor readings. Swap with good known is common way.

    Hopefully you can fix the runaway idle... then might be time to try it under load (in the water) again and see where it's at.

    Cheers!
    Last edited by ripcuda; 07-29-2015 at 03:13 PM.

  10. #10

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    Thanks ripcuda for quick replay .I will look into it and update

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