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  1. #1

    MSX150 Oil In Coolant

    Hello,

    I am new to the polaris forum and greenhulk but not to jetskis.

    I recently purchased a msx150 turbo that has an issue that I have been research on this forum and the helpful link with all of the url's to troubleshoot. I wanted to get the experts thoughts on where to start with the symptoms I am seeing. The previous owner stated he bought the ski as a package and when he went to put it on the water it would not go above 3500 rpm's. The ski starts/runs/idles fine. The compression is 128/130. One of the symptoms right now as I have it are the coolant reservoir is full of oil, not just a little mixed into the coolant but full. It is almost like someone filled it with oil instead of the proper place. The other issue that I have immediately noticed is that the oil is way above full. It is up past the full point on the stick even when cold. It seems to be thin and more runny that normal but not milky like its being contaminated. I am just looking for a good place to start the troubleshooting process. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.


  2. #2
    hill160881's Avatar
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    It has a blown head gasket. I would start off by pulling the engine and researching all this engine needs when rebuilding. I will compile a list of rip does not beat me to it.

  3. #3
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    First off... Welcome to GH!

    While Hill could very well be correct in this thoughts to your troubles... I'm not quite so eager to tell someone to pull the engine before checking a few more things first. Especially if you think it's possible that the PO put the wrong fluids in.

    A 3500 max rpm is very close to 3400... which happens to be the max rpms allowed with a failed SIFB module. This module tells the ECU it's in reverse, when it's not... so the ECU limits rpms to 3400 rpm. I would suspect the SIFB for sure... unless you are truly seeing 3500+ rpms.

    As for fluid contaminations... you gotta get that fixed... so you can then detect if it keeps happening. Does the oil smell heavily of gas? So not milky or foamy? A high oil would be easy. Follow the oil drain procedure and pump out a quart... then check again. You want it barely on the stick below MIN after 30 secs of running on a cold engine. A fully hot engine will show between MIN and MAX... closer to MIN is better.

    Oil in the coolant... that's tougher. Suck all the gunk out of the coolant jug. Pull the lower coolant supply hose and drain what you can. Fill, run, repeat. I'd do this with water for the flush. Once you confirm no more oil is getting in the coolant (or if it is, probably a blown headgasket like Hill said) you can drain the water and fill with proper coolant. This could take a number of flushes.

    A leak-down test in the engine cylinders is another good way to spot a blown headgasket. Make sure the coolant system is full then perform the test. When I had a blown headgasket, I would hear the coolant gurgle as the leak-down test pressure was applied to the cylinder. If you don't and get decent leak-down % numbers... that would be good to know/rule-out.

    With an overfilled oil level... you need to inspect for oil ingestion. Pull the intercooler to intake hardpipe and inspect inside the hardpipe for heavy oil or gunk. If it's on the MAP sensor... plan to replace the sensor. You can try hot soapy water on the sensor... don't use petroleum cleaners on it. If you have heavy oil or gunk... then you have oil ingestion. The whole intake tract from turbo to intake manifold needs to be thoroughly cleaned. This is a big job. Getting the intercooler out to clean properly is a chore. Let's hope you don't detect any oil in there.

    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Thanks for the replies, I will start draining all oil and flush the coolant followed by a leak down test. I pulled both sides of the intercooler hoses and I dont see any significant oil amounts. The hard pipe was clean with only a little bit of oil where it connects to the rubber hoses. The MAP sensor on the hard intercooler hose was clean and dry. I did open the throttle body up to peak into the intake and noticed some white tinted oil in the bottom of the intake.

  5. #5
    Mike Greenwood's Avatar
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    Great to have a new guy. Welcome bradfr

  6. #6
    I was told my 110 had a blown head gasket. I couldn't tell what was exactly mixed in my oil tank either. Turned out to be a blown oil cooler allowing oil and coolant to mix and go into both pathways. Head gasket looked fine but I still had removed the engine and broke it down much further than I had to. Start by pressure testing your systems first per the OEM manual and see what indicators you might get. Might save you some headache.

  7. #7
    Well I did a leak down test tonight and its not looking good. When I pressurized the cylinder I could hear quite a bit of air entering the other cylinder and a little bit going into the coolant tank. I had similar results on the other cylinder. I attempted to re-torque the head bolts to 60 ft/lbs and they all seemed right on spec. Upon further inspection there is definitely milky colored oil under the valve cover. So now I have oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil.


    Next questions:

    Does the engine need to be pulled to do a head gasket?
    What causes the head gasket to fail, overheat, overfill on oil?
    Last edited by bradfr; 07-28-2015 at 08:47 PM.

  8. #8
    This is where I was a month or so ago. Everyone's advice on GH is to pull it, tear it down, inspect, and replace as needed. I would verify the integrity of all coolers and tanks while you are at it.

    We should have said, welcome to the MSX world. That'll be $2000.

  9. #9
    Moderator HiPeRcO's Avatar
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    I am surprised that the compression numbers looked fine (128/130), even though the head gasket is blown. Did you take the measurements yourself?

  10. #10
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Yeah... looks like Hill's prognostications are turning out to come true. Any gurgling during a leak down test is pretty definitively a blown headgasket.

    My experience with blown headgaskets have been from pretty good overheats. In my case, I even had to have my head mating surface cleaned up about 10-thou to get back to flat. Luckily I didn't warp the cylinders... probably helped they were sleeved. My original engine with Nikasil plated, open-deck, aluminum block... warped the cylinders too on a bad overheat.

    Yes, the engine needs to be basically pulled to replace the headgasket. It's a bummer. BOAT... break out another thousand (or two... since it's a Weber). At least when you get it out... you can fully inspect and get everything up to par.

    Cheers!

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