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  1. #1

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    Polaris LED tester fail


    I built the tester but it does not work. It burns bright on a 9V test battery but I get no flashes on pins 2 & 4 with a 2001 Virage 1200 TXi. White/red to tan/orange. I tried reversing polarity but to no avail. I tried it with and without the lanyard on. It is unplugged from the display.

    Is the voltage on this circuit so low that the 330 ohm resistor is killing it? As I remember 1.5 volts will trigger the led.

    It is dark now but perhaps tomorrow I will try the LED straight up. I know this ski has codes stored in it and I want to read them and clear them off.

    Thank you to all who help!!!!!!!!!!!
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  2. #2

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    The led still wont lite between pins 2 & 4, white/red, tan/orange. Is this a clue to a bigger problem? The EMM has just been rebuilt and the display works fine. The red cyclopse light flashe probably because of low gas and the check engine light flashes. I checked the thermostat and front screen.

    Should I just per her on the lake. She ran for about an hour earlier this year with both those flashing.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Make sure there is full 12 volt battery power on the red/white wire at the 12-pin connector. There is a circuit breaker that feeds the display.

    Without the 330 ohm series resistor the LED would potentially over current and either burn itself out or burn out the circuit inside the EMM that drives the Tan/Orange wire. It is important to have a resistor in series with the LED.

    If the EMM cannot properly drive pin-4 Tan/Orange then it will not be possible to read the trouble codes using the LED tool, and the Check Engine warning will never trigger on the display.

    You can test the LED (with resistor) by connecting it between the red/white (pin-2) and the Reverse warning wire (Gray/Red pin-8 ). LED should light up as soon as the reverse bucket is moved away from the forward position. Hold down Bilge button to power the electric reverse motor so you can move it down.

    The red warning light on the display is not a Check Engine light. It is merely a light to attract attention, the actual reason for the light flashing will be displayed in text across the bottom edge of the MFI screen. The same red flashing display light appears for Reverse, Low Fuel, Low Oil, Hot, Check Engine, and possibly Low battery voltage.

  4. #4

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    14 VDC on red/white.
    Reverse cage goes down by cable and not motor
    Bilge pump runs
    LED works on gray/red to red/white, 14 VDC
    Does not work on red/white to tan orange (2 to 4). volt meter reads .36 VDC
    Check engine lettering on the display works when 12 pin is plugged into the back of the display.
    EMM just rebuilt.

    What could it be now?

    Thanks!

  5. #5

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    Checked exhaust manifold water screen, clean as a whistle.
    Thermostat looks like a thermostat. No debris and it does move...
    Starting on a garden hose I can feel the coolness of the hose out of the EMM to the back exit port, it runs cool.
    Sluggish response but she just needs a half second to catch her breath.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 48Straight View Post
    ...
    LED works on gray/red to red/white, 14 VDC
    Does not work on red/white to tan orange (2 to 4). volt meter reads .36 VDC
    Check engine lettering on the display works when 12 pin is plugged into the back of the display.
    EMM just rebuilt.
    ...
    When is the Check Engine warning text appearing on the display?

  7. #7

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    It appears when the engine is running both on and off the hose. The red light at the top of the display flashes too. It is low on gas though so if I have to go back in I can move it without the weight in it.

  8. #8

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    I think I am going to ignore these warnings whatever they are, put it on the lake and take my chances.

  9. #9

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    Took it out to the lake and I think it overheated. It ran great for about 15 minutes but then started bogging down. When I got back to the ramp I put my hand on the block and after about 5 seconds I have to remove it. I dont remember any of my other skis getting that hot.

    The hose coming from the EMM to the back is cool to the touch. I have checked the screen on the mag side of the exhaust and there are no debris in the thermostat. It is dark but I will check for kinked hoses tomorrow AM. I leave for Dallas for two weeks tomorrow afternoon, come home for 4 hours and then tow it to Lake Powell.

    Any ideas?

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 48Straight View Post
    Took it out to the lake and I think it overheated. It ran great for about 15 minutes but then started bogging down. When I got back to the ramp I put my hand on the block and after about 5 seconds I have to remove it. I dont remember any of my other skis getting that hot...
    Engine temperature sounds about right. Thermostat opens at about 140F

    I suspect something is not right internally with the EMM.

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