Before putting on stator;
1. While stator and the wire guard is off clean entire area with gas or some other solvent. The wire guard has a hex on the lower side and a 13MM? nut on the top
2. Check ALL nooks and carnies for any little objects and debris.
3. Check stator for any debris and clean.
4. There are small lock washers on the three longer hex bolts.
5. Use blue lock tight.
6. Feel for the slots for the hexes so you will know what they will feel like when you cant see them.

Putting on stator;
1. Lower stator into the engine with the hex bolt cups facing the gas tank and rest it on the crank shaft.
2. Slide the rubber wire puck into the flywheel cover and let the stator rest on the end of the crankshaft.
3. Take the kinda "L" shaped wire guard with one of the long hex bolts and temporarily screw it into the tap for the very short hex bolt.
4. Run the wire harness behind the metal wire guard and attach the top 13MM? nut with locktight and carefully tighten it down while tucking in the wire harness.
5. Replace the long hex bolt with the correct short one, lock washer locktight and torque it down.
6. Check the stator on the front of the block and make sure it does not rock indicating a wire caught underneath. It should kinda click in.
7. Locktight, washer and torque down the hexes.
8.Feel once again for debris at the bottom of the cavity.
9. Install the starter bendex with some grease on the ends and a small amount on the gears.

Before putting on the flywheel
1. Hone the flywheel to the crank with coarse valve lap gel you can pick up at any automotive store. Put a generous amount on the taper and put on the flywheel without the woodruff key. The magnets are sufficent to hone unless you have a new flywheel in which case you may want to repeat this step until all metals are the same color indicating a matched surface. This will take off any previous dried out locktight. Clean the taper and woodruff key slots.
2. You need to use a steel woodruff key. I got mine at NAPA but it was not as strong as the one that got sheared. You can use a small magnet to determine quality. The more it wants to jump to the magnet the higher quality of steel. The key HAS TO BE high quality steel. This went against my wrenching religion but it is the only way to proceed.
3. Clean all slots and install the key. Smack the key with a pipe and hammer to secure the key to the half moon slot.
4. Temporarily thread a bolt or two into the flywheel puller bolt holes to make it easy to grip onto.
5. Note that the slot on the flywheel is positioned at the center of the three fins on the outside of the flywheel and line the two up before the rare earth magnets pull the wheel to the block and out of your hands.
6. Turn the flywheel by hand and if you turn the engine the woodruff is engaged in the slot. If the flywheel spins the key new have fallen out of the slot and you will absolutely, positively have to find it before proceeding. If you cant find it it may be lodged behind the stater and you will have to tear everything down until you find it. You cant leave it in there to fly around at 200 MPH and kill your stator.
7. Put the two steel washers onto the crank shaft and they should fit into the round slot around the crank. You must use two washers so they can slip against each other in order for the torque wrench to read properly.
8. Pull the first spark plug and insert a rope into the cylinder to hold the crank still while you torque it.
9. Torque the nut to 80 LBS.
10 Pull out the rope, put on the nylon pump shaft.
11. When putting the front of the cover in order to align the oil pump hold the cover over the front of the engine and crank it over. The slot will pop in and now you can assemble the cover.
12. Assemble the rest of the ski.