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  1. #1

    R12X Slow crank with plugs in?

    Just bought an R12x from an auction, so no history. It has 130hrs & looks mint, but looks like it has been sitting for a year. I put a new known working battery in it, removed plugs & it cranks fine. Put plugs in & it hardly turns over. I shorted the start relay with no change. Then removed airbox / intercooler & attached jumper leads direct to starter, no change. I removed the starter motor & the bushes were over 12mm and the commutator was like new with no shorts. Put it all back together & went back to service manual ( I didn't notice any shims or insulator washers at the opposite end to the bushes, definitely shims at bushes end ). Wish I noticed this before putting it all back together, they may have been there. But not convinced a few shims & washer will make that much difference? I've never owned a ski before so not sure where to go next. I can't hear any scraping, but started to pull off the pump. Removed the first 4 bolts & cap. Hoping the 4 against the hull will allow me to separate the pump from the engine to rule it out. Guessing the 17mm shaft inside the cap is for removing the impellor itself?Just want to remove entire pump & check any bearings at this stage. After that I guess timing issues? But compression is there as it shot the plugs that were sitting loose straight out into the hull, as it cranks fine when they are loose/ removed (managed to get them back). Any ideas? Cheers all.


  2. #2
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    Pump housing swelled up and is rubbing your impeller

  3. #3
    wheresmike's Avatar
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    Did you get the pump off and determine if that was the problem?

  4. #4
    Ok. Pulled the pump off & it looks perfect & spins free and smooth (as a bonus I think it has a Solas impellor, sharp ends not round curves? If that makes sense). However, it doesn't help my situation.
    It must be either that insulated washer, which I think is listed on the wrong end in the service manual section 18-9, pg 456 as I see no need to insulate the engaging end, but would make sense at the commutator end.
    ....Or the timing is wrong internally. Any quick & easy way to check that?

  5. #5
    wheresmike's Avatar
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    still may be your drive shaft bearing if you remove the bearing housing you can disconnect the drive shaft from the engine

  6. #6
    Will I need any special tools to refit the drive shaft if I remove/ disconnect it?

  7. #7
    wheresmike's Avatar
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    You don't need any special tools there are pins on the bearing house for that.. Have you had any luck so far?

  8. #8
    I simply pulled the drive shaft back & it disconnected from the drive coupler. It all spun free & smooth? I will pull the starter tomorrow & add the insulator washer. After that, on to valve timing. Though after removing the coupler cover the timing Marks are hiden by the turbo??

  9. #9
    wheresmike's Avatar
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    cranking over was still slow with the drive shaft removed from the engine?

  10. #10
    wheresmike's Avatar
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    I've read there are things that could cause too much compression .. Maybe you could install plugs and then pull one at a time to see if it is isolated to one cylinder ..

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