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  1. #1

    It's been a while!! 99slxt

    Going to look at a 99 sltx guy says its running about 1/4 throttle and won't rev past there...
    He claims he took it to a shop and they "hooked it to a computer" and showed him the spark breaking up and told him it needs a cdi... Any thoughts before I go buy apparently the only carbed 1050 running a "computer hook up!" I could assume the guy was using a scan tool with a graph setup and a induction spark tester... Only other thing he tells me over the phone (2&1/2hour ride.) is it won't run past 23mph and my thought was the oil/fuel tank sender being bad putting ski in limp home mode(like all the other polaris skis I own were) or do you guys think it has a legit dead/dying CDI box??


  2. #2

  3. #3
    Jakespiteri's Avatar
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    As far as I know there is no way you can test a cdi to see if it is working properly, the only way to test one is to put in a known working cdi in the watercraft. This problem could be many things, I am not too familiar with this model but usually limp mode limits a watercraft to 3000-3500 rpm which sounds about the same mph the ski is being limited too. If you are not famiar with polaris limp mode it is something the computer does to protect the ski from further damage when a problem is detected, such as low oil/fuel, overheating things like that. That could be one possibility but it's hard to diagnose without actually having it in front of you.

    Another possibillty is very low compression, this will limit the skis mph very much. If you go up take a look at it you MUST bring a compression tester if you don't have one they are like 50 bucks for a cheap one and can save you a lot of headaches. if you go too look at a ski that 'supposedly' has electrial problems but it ends up being mechanical then you're looking at much more money to spend depending if it needs just a top end and/or a bottom end.

    A third possibillty is this being a 99 polaris, you will not have the gen 3 update kit which can also cause a lot of problems. The old ignition kits are known to fail over time and it is highly recommended to change them out. You can buy them from sbt the 2 cyldiner kits are around 700 bucks and the 3 cyldiner are 900 I think. I installed one of these kits in my sl700 last season and it's not too difficult but I had the motor taken out

    again with the little information this guy gave you it's hard to even guess what it could be. It could even be the carbs all gummed up and not allowing fuel to flow or even the pop off pressure is way too high. I would ask the guy for more history on the watercraft, was it ever sunk? Ask him if he winterized it? Was this probelm always there? Or what were you doing when this problem started?

    the more questions you know about the history of a watercraft it can make your job mich easier, also if you do buy it make sure you go through EVERYTHINHG you don't want a blown motor on your maiden voyage out.

    Also so how much is the guy asking? Got any pics?

  4. #4
    Ok guys so against most recommendations I bought this ski..... It's a 1999 sltx 1050. Went to look and guy was in a hurry and so was I.. Didn't get to inspect like I would like to.. It's a little rough around the edges a little faded. needs a seat cover. But it fired right up on the trailer and everything is there... Good wash on the pistons and the motor spun easily by hand. So I took the gamble and now it's mine!! Trailer and ski 400 bucks. Start looking it over and find the reason the MFD doesn't work..(corrosion on fuse) clean it up and display works!! Look in rear electrical box to find that lovely yellow writing on the cdi with 447 and its black potted with the computer cable hook up. Update cdi right?!?!? So I'm gonna finish checking it over (oil and fuel system) and possibly wet this thing tomorrow.. Any other suggestions??

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Arrow First water test - Make the odds favor a successful outcome

    See my signature links under the new-to-me section. Lots of things to check throng, and not just around the engine.

    Fuel hoses, fuel selector valve, fuel water separator, fuel tank filler cap seal, fuel tank dirty inside, etc. Corroded electrical, loose bolts, loose hose clamps, incorrect adjustments, worn through-hull seals, rusty impeller bearings, hoses or wires flopping around or rubbing on the engine or driveshaft, etc.

    The very first water test is really a 'bet'. The bet is that all the things you did not check (yet) are not going to cause trouble, damage the engine, stall the engine, or sink the machine.

    The more things you check before you do that first 'test' the better the odds that the test will be successful. If you want the machine to be reliable on the water you need to do the work up front to make it that way. Testing does not improve reliability, it can have the opposite effect if during the testing you cause damage.

  6. #6
    Who or where do I turn for fuel valve and line?? What kind/type of line?? I'm going to ditch the oil injection.. (Just don't trust it.. Lost a 780 motor because wifey didn't know what the red flashing light meant when the oil gauge was low...so in my mind if she has fuel she has oil...)

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by F'n_newguy View Post
    Who or where do I turn for fuel valve and line?? What kind/type of line?? I'm going to ditch the oil injection.. (Just don't trust it.. Lost a 780 motor because wifey didn't know what the red flashing light meant when the oil gauge was low...so in my mind if she has fuel she has oil...)
    www.watcon.com for parts and knowledgeable answers.

    The pre-mix oil thing has been discussed many times. In my mind the risk of someone refueling with straight gas is greater than the risk of running out of oil in the oil tank. It takes a lot of riding to empty an oil tank. Top it up before going out each day and it would be difficult to use up all the oil before it gets dark.

    If the person doing the refueling is able to always get the premix ratio correct, they are also capable of just topping off the oil tank.

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