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  1. #1

    Question Coolant overflow

    Hi guys,

    I have an RXP that's overflowing coolant through the overflow tube when running full throttle. I did some searching and it seems this is caused by a bad head gasket.

    If I keep an eye on it and never let it run out of coolant can I keep riding it till the end of the season? I might put another 10 hours on it or so, my full throttle runs are no more than 30 sec long. The bottle has never gone completely empty, I just notice a bit less after riding and top it off. I might lose 3/4 of an inch after a weekend of riding.

    I really don't want to deal with this in the middle of summer


    Thanks


  2. #2
    Mod less, ride more! troyheb's Avatar
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    You can keep riding it. But chances are it will keep getting worse, and then you may do serious damage.

  3. #3
    Shoot, how big of a job is this for someone not scared to do it? Any special tools required?

    Head gasket + head bolts are the only parts required to replace? This ski doesn't have the weak valves so i wouldn't be changing those.

  4. #4

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    it would be a good idea to at least get the head resurfaced. No special tools needed.

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  6. #5
    SLASHER's Avatar
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    Run ARP head studs next and check torque 3 heat cycles at 95-100 ft/lb

  7. #6
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toxicgun View Post
    it would be a good idea to at least get the head resurfaced. No special tools needed.
    Should last a while, if u stay off WOT runs. ON Boost is when it will puke out.

    Have the head surfaced, and get a valve job done, to keep them sealing properly. A new head gasket, rocker shaft bolts, and stock stretch bolts will work fine.

  8. #7
    Hmm if you''re not touching the valves and only doing the gasket you still need to remove the rocker shaft bolts?

    I hope I don't get flamed but I really just want to fix the current problem which is the head gasket. I don't want to touch anything else that isn't broken.

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by aperxp View Post
    Hmm if you''re not touching the valves and only doing the gasket you still need to remove the rocker shaft bolts?

    I hope I don't get flamed but I really just want to fix the current problem which is the head gasket. I don't want to touch anything else that isn't broken.
    the head would need to be cleaned out after machining the surface flat, can't really do that properly without moving the rockers and cam.

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  11. #9

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    Personally, I would buy the ARP studs instead of the OEM bolts. Just 2 hours after I did the head gasket on mine the timing chain went out, taking 6 valves with it. I was glad I spend a little more on the ARP's!

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