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  1. #1

    1992 Seadoo GTS won't run in the water, runs on the trailer

    Ok bit of a long story but Ill try to keep it brief. I'm working on a 92 GTS for a friend of mine. About 6 years ago he brought it to me and it wouldn't run at all, no spark. I put in a new ignition box for him, a crank kit (bearing spacers were melted from a cooling system filed with sand) and a new impeller wear ring. Started it up in my shop and ran fine on the trailer. He took it to his lake house and could not get it to start in the water. Put it up on the lift and it started fine out of the water, lowered it into the water and it would die. I wasn't there to see it so I couldn't help at that time and he ended up selling the house later that year. The ski has been sitting in storage since and now he wants to get it running again. I had suspected at the time that the carb may have needed adjustment or rebuild so that's where I started this time. The inside of the carb was in great shape except for the internal fuel filter which was about 75% full of junk. I put the carb back together with new seals & filter and the ski runs great again on the trailer. He took it out last weekend and same deal couldn't get it to start in the water although I suspect he may have flooded it. Anyway after looking around and talking to a few people at marinas I came up with checking the fuel selector switch and the rotary valve. Took the fuel selector apart and its in good shape, very clean with no corrosion. I took the rotary valve cover off and there appears to be some wear. I checked it using a feeler gauge and the .014" will slide in but is pretty tight. I broke my .015" trying to bend it to fit in at the angle i needed so I couldn't go any larger. The .016" would not fit in there. I did check it with the valve in place but the o-ring removed as the manual specifies. I know the .014 is the high end for the spec and I have attached pics here to show you the condition. Do you think that this could be the problem? If not what else should I be looking at? The only other thing that I'm thinking it could be is ignition timing and I don't have the tools to check that but I marked everything when I took it apart to replace the crank and put it all back in the same spot. All help is greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Have you checked the compression? If the motor is already low on compression from being ran lean with the carb filters 75% clogged then there you have it.
    If it's low on compression it needs to be discarded or have a new motor put in it, it's not advisable to put a top end on a motor that old because you will only do a top end to find that the rotary valve cavity seals on the crankshaft go bad very quickly after that many years of sitting.

  3. #3
    When I was working on it originally it had 125psi on both cylinders after putting in the new crank. I'm going to check it again tonight when I get home but it shouldn't have changed since I last checked it.

  4. #4
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    if it was ran lean it will change very fast...

  5. #5
    OK, so Ive been doing some more work to it and checking it out.
    Compression on both cylinders with the engine warm is 150psi
    Carb pop off test shows its in range, pops off at 28psi, seals back up about 20psi and holds.
    I replaced both the rotary valve and rotary valve cover with new pieces, installed & timed correctly.
    Rechecked ignition timing and found the hash marks slightly out of alignment, put them in line.
    Put in brand new NGK BR7ES plugs gapped at .020 as specd in the manual.
    Carb is set at 1 turn out on the low side, 0 turns (lightly seated but closed) on the high side. Idle set at about I'm guessing 2,500rpm on the trailer, I dont have a tach for it.

    After all this it starts up the best it has in years on the trailer and restarts hot no problem.
    Took it to the water today, started it up, backed it into the water engine running at about half throttle and I kept it running, feathered the throttle between 1/4 and 3/4 for a minute or two to make sure it would stay running under load then as soon as I tried to let it settle into an idle it sputtered and died out. Tried to restart in the water with no luck. Got it out of the water, restarted on the trailer, richened the low side 1/4 turn out and tied it again and got the same results, dies at lower RPM. Pulled it back out, tried adjusting both high and low jets at a few different positions and couldn't get it to get any better. It started getting harder and harder to start and took longer and longer to catch, Im sure it was getting flooded so I pulled the plugs, shut off the fuel and cleared it. Went through that a few times trying to get it running and stay running in the water with no luck. The last two times we put it into the water it was struggling to stay running even at half throttle and it didnt want to rev up and clear itself out. We had it in and out of the water about 6 or 7 times in about 45 minutes trying to get it restarted in between and the battery was pretty much dead by this point and the engine was getting pretty hot. When it sis start, it started to break up running on the trailer at higher rpm so I packed it in for the day and brought it home to cool off and charge the battery back up. At this point I feel like its most likely carb settings that I need to mess with to dial it in but since I cant get it to stay running in the water without being on the throttle its really tough to adjust it. Am I in the ball park on the carb settings? Any other ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks

  6. #6
    Myself's Avatar
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    Check exhaust for collapsed hoses, check waterbox for loose rattling baffles, pull plugs immediately after it dies out in the water and check for water droplets on them. Carb should be 1-1.5 turns out on low and I like the high cracked open a wee bit. Check to see if it will start, idle, and rev on trailer on front or rear plug only.

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