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Thread: 96 GTI

  1. #1

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    96 GTI

    I've been over in the other forum working on an older ski and have received some great info. Things are looking up.
    With that being said, I acquired a matching pair of 96 GTI skis this weekend. They are almost showroom clean and have been taken care of their entire life that is obvious. I intend to get them both going - money permitting.
    The first one I figure needs fuel lines replaced and fuel valve cleaned and carbs totally gone through. It was running a couple years ago but was surging so it was parked and covered. Assuming I have good compression and no vac leaks, I'm gonna say it's a viable candidate for lake ready very soon.
    The other one is a bit of a mystery though. It had about an inch of 2stroke oil in the bottom of the hull. Starter didn't want to turn the motor over so pulled the spark plugs and the cylinders were basically full of oil as well. Now, I've never touched a rotary valve engine so I'm clueless as to where to start. Is this a common problem that others have seen before?
    Speaking of compression, what is the spec on this engine? I'm not having a ton of luck finding specs and walkthrough procedures.

    Thanks in advance,
    BL


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    you have two common problems
    \
    oil tank leak ( replace it, it cannot be repaired)

    rotary valve seal leak-these are on the crankshaft and allow the injector oil ( which lubes the rotary valve) to leak into the crankcases. Might be manageable if you clear the engine then clamp the bigger oil feed line to the rotary valve if you aren;t going to use the ski for a long period.

    It's a pretty nasty job clearing the engine. get some old beach towels, some brake cleaner and a half a box of spark plugs
    ground the plug wires and crank the engine wide open to blow out as much oil as possible.

    feed one cylinder a teaspoon of fuel, and leave the other plug out, crank the engine..make sure the other plug is grounded and the towel is covering. Clean up mess. repeat until engine kills every mosquito for a mile.

    clean the oil in the hull as best you can. anything left in there ends up in your riding water. Order an oil tank. Good injector oil is too expensive to waste.

  3. #3

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    So, don't replace the seal?

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    that requires replacing the crankshaft on a seadoo.

    so no, you will not want to replace the rv seals too expensive

  5. #5

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    Well that's not good. So if this seal is bad (as in really bad) the engine is toast?

    The next question (keeping in mind I know nothing about these engines) is it possible to block off the oil injection and premix the fuel? Or are there two different oil injection systems, one for fuel and one for valve?

    Is there a general breakdown somewhere I can go read that explains how these engines work so I don't have to keep asking stupid questions?

    Thanks for the replies and please keep em coming.

  6. #6
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    You can download a service manual from seadoomanuals.net.

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    finally got to start on this GTi, it has 135 lbs comp in both cylinders. gave it a little squirt of carb cleaner to see if all was working. fired right up. so I went ahead and pulled carbs and got a roll of fuel line and a couple boxes of clamps. sure enough carbs were full of trash. I've got the bodies soaking and will hopefully finish the cleanup and reassembly tonight. BUT,,, I downloaded the manual and have read through it. Am I reading correctly that the hi side screws on both carbs is at 0?? that seems a little odd to me, but if that's what's done then i'll do it. I counted the turns upon disassembly. The low sides were 1 3/8 and the hi sides were only 1/8. I thought at the time maybe there was too much trash down in there, but after reading the book, I guess it was pretty close...
    my Polaris rebuild hasn't gone so well so I am really hoping these GTi skis work out better for me...

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    that's exactly what is says and it's wise to ask and follow advice on stuff like this. When I first encountered it, I scratched my head also. Seemed strange, like a whole raft of other things I've encountered over the years.

    with any carb work, after it's all together a trial run with a good plug chop or two give peace of mind that you haven't screwed up. Plugs that are light tan or darker=good...all white=try again, you are going to lose the engine shortly.

  9. #9

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    I can't find an acceptable compression spec in the manual. Does 135 sound ok?

  10. #10
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    130-150 is what I usually see on the 717 engine. I've seen them as low as 115 and still running but not so peppy anymore.

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