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  1. #1

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    Woodruf key steel of non steel lock tight question.

    Ok so the woodruf key on the crank is not really designed to take torque. The adhesion is generated by the nut and washer being torqued to 80 LBS and red lock tight. Steel keys when they sheer will damage your half moon hole on the crank, flywheel and defeats the theory of using a softer metal to sheer to protect the crank. Now tell me why can't I use the Harbor Freight keys with blue lock tight?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    From the service manual, blue Loctite is for the flywheel nut;

    Loctite 242
    Coat entire inside surface of flywheel taper with 262.
    http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-408...=8802623029249

  3. #3

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    I torqued the nut to 45 ft lbs but I am afraid to go any tighter because it feels like I am going to strip the threads. The nut is starting to turn without a higher force. It is just a mechanical feeling. What do you think K447?

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 48Straight View Post
    I torqued the nut to 45 ft lbs but I am afraid to go any tighter because it feels like I am going to strip the threads. The nut is starting to turn without a higher force. It is just a mechanical feeling. What do you think K447?
    Torque spec on the flywheel nut for red domestic engines is 80-100 foot pounds.

    It is necessary to use the 'rope trick' or similar to lock the MAG piston while the nut is tightened.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the answers K447. Yea the rope trick is what I am doing and my mechanics feel just tells me that I am just starting to strip the threads. The nut looks to be stainless and it came with the ski. If one of the two is going to strip it will probably be the nut. I do have a tap and die set but Im not sure if I would have to pull the engine to clean the threads if it does strip.

    The nut is just seeming to turn easier rather than harder after 45 LBS. I am using a Harbor Freight torque wrench though but this wrench has proven to be accurate at all times before. It seems to me that every other time I have ever torqued a nut on a flywheel I have not ever felt this.

    The ski was a basket case when I got it but one would think the nut would be the original though.

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    This is a red engine, correct?

    If so, perhaps a replacement flywheel but is appropriate before you damage threads with this one.

    If you have a thread die large enough, run it over the crankshaft threads to be sure they are not crossed or otherwise messed up.

    Someone on here may have a spare nut and washer that they could send to you. Or check the GH Polaris Classifieds for a parted out machine, might have the nut laying around after pulling the flywheel.

  7. #7

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    I'm a big fan of Harbor Freight, and I have bought plenty of tools from them, most good, some bad. Please do not buy your ski parts at Harbor Freight. First, it is the hackiest thing ever, and second, your flywheel key has to be exactly to spec to work properly. A Harbor Freight key will not be that. If you need Polaris parts, and cannot find them, contact John Zigler at Watcon. I'm positive he could set you up with anything you need.

    Quote Originally Posted by 48Straight View Post
    Ok so the woodruf key on the crank is not really designed to take torque. The adhesion is generated by the nut and washer being torqued to 80 LBS and red lock tight. Steel keys when they sheer will damage your half moon hole on the crank, flywheel and defeats the theory of using a softer metal to sheer to protect the crank. Now tell me why can't I use the Harbor Freight keys with blue lock tight?

  8. #8
    Connecticut CrazyA's Avatar
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    I know what you're saying about "the feel" of the threads being ready to let go. Bottom line though, if you CANT torque the flywheel nut to 90 or 100 pounds, then something is wrong with something somewhere.

  9. #9
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyA View Post
    I know what you're saying about "the feel" of the threads being ready to let go. Bottom line though, if you CANT torque the flywheel nut to 90 or 100 pounds, then something is wrong with something somewhere.
    FACT!!!!!!!

  10. #10

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    Found the problem, the washer I was using was not hardened steel so it was distorting at 45 LBS giving the feeling it was striping threads. I searched around and found the correct washer in a bin that contained a bunch of rusting bolts and wala; 80 LBS torque.

    I still dont understand why a steel woodruf is recommended. The woodruf key is suppose to sheer to protect the crank. If it is made of steel you could screw up the half moon in the crank or worse yet bend the crank. If the torque is right a softer metal woodruf should work. Same thing with the bolts on the Polaris, why do they rust? I have never seen a Kawasaki bolt rust.

    So after a bad starter, a dropped valve in the gas tank and a bad computer she is ready once again to hit the lake. Hey my skis may be old school but I dont have to worry when one of my crew puts the nose up on a rocky shore line at Lake Powell or it hits my houseboat. It is like a 4X4; if you are going serious four wheeling dont buy a new one. If you buy one that is already dented and beat up you will have a better time,

    Thanks guys.

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