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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    South Jersey
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    2002 Virage 1200cc TXI running issues

    Hello, I had just picked a 2002 virage txi 1200 last week. I wasn't too sure if i wanted to get involved with it due to how limited it is on finding parts. Long story short I got it because the price was too good to turn down. It sat for about a year and he said it just needed a air temp sensor. I put fresh gas in it, new temp sensor, some injector cleaner and ran it. still running kind of rough with after putting about 3 hours on it. When i first put it in the water it runs terrible, wont get up and go more than 5mph and breaks up bad and stalls about 5 times. After running it for a few and warming it up it starts to clear up. I had it out for about 2 hours today and in about 30min it ran about 90% efficient, almost completely clear with "breaking up" rarely. Had it to about 55mph, 7000rpms running great. On the way home it starting doing the "breaking up" issue again and kept getting worse where it wouldnt get past 6000rpms and if i let off the gas it would take a good few seconds with it running crappy to get back up. Has anyone had similar issues? i figured starting with clearing and blowing out the fuel lines. by the way im using the term "breaking up" term as something similar to a misfire, not sure any other way to describe it. Thanks for the help! Also the check engine message is on along with the red light blinking. Not sure if its from the air temp sensor that hasn't been cleared or something else.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    These are not carburetor engines so you cannot use carb engine thinking when diagnosing them.

    They do not need fuel additives. If the gasoline in the tank was old or contaminated the correct response is to drain and clear the tank, not 'push' the engine and run it hard.

    These 2-stroke engines do NOT like being run hard when there are problems, there is real risk of causing internal engine damage due to lean combustion piston burn.

    The Ficht fuel injectors are completely different from automotive fuel injectors. They work differently and are diagnosed differently.

    The first two things I suggest you check is the fuel pressure and the fuel injector voltage while the engine is running.

    There is a schrader valve tee where you can connect a fuel pressure gauge. During starting and running the fuel pressure should be just over 20PSI. If it is very low then the fuel pressure regulator needs repair.

    In fact, the pressure regulator should be repaired even if it has not failed yet, as they do commonly fail. The regulator mounting reinforcement repair is not hard to do.

    For the injector voltage, find a place to tap into a white/red wire. Do not unplug any fuel injectors and do not unplug the diagnostic loop through connection. Find some other place to hook the red meter probe into a white/red wire. Black meter probe to engine ground. When running the voltage should be close to 45 volts DC and fairly stable as the engine RPM varies.

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  4. #3

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    South Jersey
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    Thanks for the info, I guess im too used to working on carb motors. I will try that and get back to you. I appreciate the response!

  5. #4

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    Jul 2015
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    South Jersey
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    I think I misdiagnosed the issue from being something with the fuel to a failing TPS. After doing some more research and reading more about other virages I decided to check the tps. The engine ran fine at smooth with the tps unplugged then to a rough run once I plugged it in. New one should be in by the end of the week.

  6. #5

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    South Jersey
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    So I put the new TPS on, did not fix the issue but could of been one of the many issue I may have going on. I checked the fuel pressure and voltage which both were in working order.

    -Good compression on all cylinders (125)
    -New air temp sensor
    -new TPS
    -22PSI of fuel pressure
    -Good injector voltage

    When I tried running it today with the new TPS it ran very rough and didn't want to idle for more than a few seconds. When i sprayed a small mist of throttle body cleaner in the intake it ran very clear for the few seconds it was burning off of the cleaner.

    The next step is to replace the spark plugs, they were fouled when I took them out and tried cleaning them up and see if that would make a difference. Should have new ones within the next 2 days. I couldn't find any stores that had the NGKs in stock. I think i've narrowed it down to bad plugs.. possible bad coils or spark plug wire? maybe clogged up injectors? Really scratching my head on this one. Hopefully the new plugs clears everything up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  7. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    How old is the gasoline?

    If you have not yet reinforced the mounting of the fuel pressure regulator (located inside the fuel pump body) doing so would give you an opportunity to drain the fuel tank and inspect inside the tank. Water or dirt in the fuel, or really stake fuel, can cause problems.

    The factory fuel pressure regulator can easily fall out during normal operation, causing low fuel pressure and possibly severe engine damage due to lean piston burn. The repair has been documented elsewhere on here, and can also be found via my signature links.

    The EMM is central to the Ficht engine function. It is not uncommon for these EMM to develop problems as they age. There are several repair services for the Ficht EMM. They know about the common internal electronic components that can fail with age and are able to replace those parts with new, then reseal the EMM again.

    If you have checked or replaced the sensors and other components that the EMM depends upon and the problems persist then it is likely the EMM itself needs repair. That said, a good EMM cannot work well if there are other problems with the engine, so it is worthwhile to check everything.

    There is a fist sized external capacitor mounted near the EMM. Sometimes the screws that hold the wires tight on the posts can work loose, causing varying engine symptoms and general weirdness. I just fixed one of these last week.

  8. #7

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    Plugs and wires did not change much still has engine surging, not much of an idle and loss of power. Not too familiar with the EMM on this so ill have to do some research before I break into any of that.

  9. #8

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    I think you should have the emm checked by DFI, do not use fichtemmrepair.com in Texas unless you want more problems. From what you told me in private message it sounds like a bad cap in the emm.

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