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  1. #1

    Will This Battery Cut Off Switch Work?

    I have a 97 gtx sea doo with a threaded battery. Will this cut off switch work? I just want to be able to turn off/on the battery while its not being used without pulling cables or adding more cables to the mix. I will remove the battery for storage but in use I just want to be able to power it off overnight. I was thinking that would work below with a washer and nut on other end.

    http://www.amazon.com/Side-Battery-M.../dp/B001N72FES


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
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    Is this for security or do you have a battery discharge problem?

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post

    Is this for security or do you have a battery discharge problem?
    Battery discharge problem/12v low all the time. I am going over everything on my 97 gtx and fixing/replacing everything that is worn or broken. I will purchase a heavy duty rectifier as well to fix the 12v low/battery discharge issue but also wanted a switch to turn the battery off as a 2ndary option. Its a vacation ski so its not driven much even during the summer. Usually I remove the battery and throw a trickle charger on it if its going to be a while between runs.

    Here is the rectifier I am going to order.

    http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_p...&products_id=8

  4. #4
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    1) That quick release you posted is rather big for the small batteries used in your ski. The long piece could put a lot of stress on the terminal sticking out like a diving board.

    2) If you need to disconnect battery overnight, sounds like you have an amp draw. If that's the case, I would fix the issue...unless its a bad ECU.

    Why not put a SS stud into battery and then use a wing-nut to hold cable in place.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    1) That quick release you posted is rather big for the small batteries used in your ski. The long piece could put a lot of stress on the terminal sticking out like a diving board.

    2) If you need to disconnect battery overnight, sounds like you have an amp draw. If that's the case, I would fix the issue...unless its a bad ECU.

    Why not put a SS stud into battery and then use a wing-nut to hold cable in place.
    Ahh good point I didn't think about that. It does look pretty long. We have had 12v low warning light on our ski as long as I can remember and the shops always just said don't worry about it and charge the battery overnight. I had a tuff time getting the ski to start last week and when it did run the following morning the battery would be dead. I did some research and the most common cause is a bad rectifier so plan on replacing that while I rebuild the carbs and check carb settings. I also have to fix the fuel sender unit as its showing 0 fuel all the time and the speed wheel is also not working. Shows 0 mph but does show rpm which leads me to fixing the idle. Currently it idles at 900rpm, I found online it should be 1500 rpm which is probably why it bogs off the line & sounds ruff at idle.

    Basically this thing has been to a lot of shops over the years and everytime it always still has some sort of issue or they fix something another shop broke or didn't do right so I am going to take matters into my own hands and fix this thing up to how it was back when we bought it brand new. Its up to 330 hours but its on its third motor "oem used engine". The 2nd motor was an sbt motor that lasted 20 hours before the oil pump starved it and it ate itself. Now I run premix to avoid anything like that from happening again. If the ski wasn't in such good external shape I wouldn't bother putting the time and money into her but she still looks great. Just lots of odds and ends that need some love.

  6. #6
    Sanfish's Avatar
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    I've seen a bad wire-harness cause this. You are lucky because the later models had the rectifier as part of the ECU, so it was tricky to bypass and wire in an external version.

    Given the age of ski, its a tough call on how much money or time one puts in it. I made my decision long ago...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Sanfish View Post
    I've seen a bad wire-harness cause this. You are lucky because the later models had the rectifier as part of the ECU, so it was tricky to bypass and wire in an external version.

    Given the age of ski, its a tough call on how much money or time one puts in it. I made my decision long ago...
    I'm on my last straw with it. Originally my parents were towing it around from shop to shop and the family was splitting the bills to fix it but the last engine only lasted 20 hours of lake time after 3-4 tows back and fourth to ski shops etc with a huuuge ridiculous bill. It came down to I could take over insurance payments etc and pay for anything/all repair work going forward and make it mine or sell it all including the dock lift. Or try to trade it in for a newer model but I have too many car projects to want another payment.

    I took over insurance payments etc and paid for the last used/oem engine myself and did about 90% of the install myself minus carb tuning. I don't have a car to tow it around with anymore so have to borrow a car from my rents just to move it around. The lake/dock we use it at is 3.5 hours away so towing it back and fourth to work on it is a huuuuge pain. Plus hauling all my tools down there to work on it without a garage etc is also a nightmare.

    I plan on taking some time over the next few weeks and replacing whats broken and/or worn out. Ill launch it on a local river and see how it runs. I debated trading it in etc but I simply don't ride her enough to get stuck with another car/boat payment but enjoy it enough I would like to have the option of riding her when I am down there. Hoping to fix everything for under $500 by doing it all myself....time will tell!

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