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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Panama City Beach FL
    Posts
    26

    2008 Yamaha VX fuel pump problems

    I am not a mechanic, and we don't have any real good dealers near by to choose from.

    I have a 2008 VX 1100 Sport that is having intermittent fuel pump problems it seems. also a Start stop switch that was clicking a relay, which may be a starter relay problem.

    Now its cranking fine but no fuel in line. Anyone have ideas what some of the causes might be or had this problem ? The ski has ran fine. Good battery, harness looks good, used frequently so fuel should be good. voltage regulater ? fuel pump gone bad ? Fuel Pump relay. Fuel sender, faulty sensor ? I know the list goes on.

    While diaganosing problem, after ski shut off on water, would crank, but no start. then it finally started and got it home. Got it home and Odd thing it just started many times with strong fuel pressure in fuel hose, and spark, and start stop switch working,

    Should I pull the fuel pump ? Is there any way to test the fuel pump, check for blockage, etc. ??

    So far I pulled and reinstalled starter relay in electrical box, checked start stop switch for malfunction, checked spark, throttle position sensor, Check guage cluster Error code reads 01 for normal. checked electrical connections, and disconnected and reconnected fuel pump relay and elect ctrl valve relay at/top electrical box, don't know how to test.
    Last edited by EmeraldCoastRacing; 07-08-2015 at 11:13 AM.

  2. #2
    pumps usually last a long time and it ends up being electrical issue.

    Only way to test the harness is to unplug from the ecu and pull each pin out and inspect. Even YDS will give you inaccurate readings.

    There is a white tab on the side of the main ecu plugs that will allow you to push in and release the lock on the wires. Pull one pin out, inspect, grease, push back in, move to the next wire. There are about 80-90 wires i think, it should take you about 10-20 minuets to check them all, if you grease them at the same time, they will likely last another 7 years. Once you get in the groove it might take you less, but its easy to mix the steps up even tho its right in front of you.

    Also, a clogged filter could do this too. Its no fun taking them apart but if you do it once, youll be a pro at it. You'll need some flat head screw drivers and split the cases by prying and leveraging the assembly against itself, if that makes any sense. Clean filter with break cleaner.

    Only test i can think of for your pump is to get a jump wire and put 12 volts to the pins. You'll hear a shitty bearing or a seized motor. I might have a few pumps laying around, But usually when i have a fuel issue, the pump is about the last thing to replace. but of the first things to check.

    Are you getting ay error codes?

    Also, the rotation sensor being unplugged will stop fuel. Unplug and reconnect it too.

    Check fuses. Only one side of the fuse box has working fuses, the others are spares, so you don't need to test every fuse you see in there.

    Philips head screw driver and remove the starter button assembly and clean button with brake cleaner or other mild solvent. Go easy on reassembly and make sure you have the alignment pins in place before clamping down

    Also, PM on the way with the yami manual for you ski.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Panama City Beach FL
    Posts
    26

    No fuel in fuel line to injectors from fuel pump - bad fuel pump relay ?

    Thanks, I will test the fuel pump with a 12v jump, it was working sometimes and not now at all. currently no fuel in line, no fuel pump running, is spark at the plug, start switch is turning over starter, battery good and full charge at 12.5v. error codes none is 01 normal. fuel pump or main relay I don't know. fuses are good. I am inspecting harness and connectors visually and apply dilectric grease. slant detection switch good, and throttle position sensor ok. I believe, not tested. no slack in throttle cable.

    I also have oilish looking residue that keeps building up in water separator. I was using lucas fuel injection and stabilizer last year in fuel. it kind of looks like that, a little thickish. maybe that has clogged the fuel pump, don't know. but fuel pump not working at all now.

    I will keep the post updated as a find out more.


    Thanks again.



    Quote Originally Posted by kwtony View Post
    pumps usually last a long time and it ends up being electrical issue.

    Only way to test the harness is to unplug from the ecu and pull each pin out and inspect. Even YDS will give you inaccurate readings.

    There is a white tab on the side of the main ecu plugs that will allow you to push in and release the lock on the wires. Pull one pin out, inspect, grease, push back in, move to the next wire. There are about 80-90 wires i think, it should take you about 10-20 minuets to check them all, if you grease them at the same time, they will likely last another 7 years. Once you get in the groove it might take you less, but its easy to mix the steps up even tho its right in front of you.

    Also, a clogged filter could do this too. Its no fun taking them apart but if you do it once, youll be a pro at it. You'll need some flat head screw drivers and split the cases by prying and leveraging the assembly against itself, if that makes any sense. Clean filter with break cleaner.

    Only test i can think of for your pump is to get a jump wire and put 12 volts to the pins. You'll hear a shitty bearing or a seized motor. I might have a few pumps laying around, But usually when i have a fuel issue, the pump is about the last thing to replace. but of the first things to check.

    Are you getting ay error codes?

    Also, the rotation sensor being unplugged will stop fuel. Unplug and reconnect it too.

    Check fuses. Only one side of the fuse box has working fuses, the others are spares, so you don't need to test every fuse you see in there.

    Philips head screw driver and remove the starter button assembly and clean button with brake cleaner or other mild solvent. Go easy on reassembly and make sure you have the alignment pins in place before clamping down

    Also, PM on the way with the yami manual for you ski.


  4. #4
    12.5 is very low, your fuel pump will barely turn over at that voltage. Unless you have a good stator its having a tough time keeping up....

    Swap that out asap, might be your issue

  5. #5
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    Last edited by Rocketman; 05-27-2016 at 11:55 PM.

  6. #6
    The ground on a VX is under the intake manifold and bolted in conjunction with the starter motor. Pretty tough to just get too...

    If that is bad tho, pull the motor and replace all your hose clamps and clean engine/bay at the same time. Youll find other things to like motor mounts and a few others while you are in there. MUCH easier to do with motor out. You could remove the exhaust manifold to get access without removing the engine. I did this once and it took my an hour to get it all unbolted. I can pull a motor in 13 minuets with a beer break...

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Panama City Beach FL
    Posts
    26
    Fyi....for those this may help, to test the fuel pump. I ran power from the 12v battery to fuel pump, connected it to the power terminal on fuel pump inside the connector and attached the plug from the wire harness. The fuel pump did run, bypassing the fuel pump relay switch. I checked the relay switch and it appears a pin in the connector may have broken, which would explain the intermittent fuel problem.

    I will see, will order new relay, and hope the fuel pump is still good and has enough pressure.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Panama City Beach FL
    Posts
    26
    thanks for manual Kw......it did help a lot in the wiring scheme, and relay. It is defn need by all who have the VX.

  9. #9
    Good news!!

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